I was just experimenting with ISO-Auto, just to see if it would work with a moon shot. Normally I would not use it for this type of shot.
Bob
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
1 or 2 stops of light? Seriously? Polarizers work on a 90 deg angle to the sun, so if it is directly over your shoulder or you are shooting into it, there is no discernible effect. But, leaving it on all the time will not add any neutral density and or loss in light, since your camera will continue to expose correctly. If you are worried, simply rotate the bezel (at aforementioned 90 deg angle) so the polarizing effect is gone, then shoot away.
Frankly, it is not worth the hassle removing it and replacing with a UV or Daylight protection filter.
1 or 2 stops of light? Seriously? Polarizers wor... (
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Yeah, Seriously!
I use the Lee Landscape Polarizer, with a filter factor of 3 (1.6 Stops) Only put it on when you need it, and don't use with wide angle lenses.
Check out Affinity Photo $50, and great customer service.
Bob
bdk wrote:
The Image was shot on a cloudy day, and yes it is a bit flat as mentioned. The problem is F8 just doesn't cut it when u want everything in focus.
The two seconds is too long as I didnt have a filter with me. , making part of the water blown out.
Next trip back I'll experiment with different Fstops and time and see what I get.
F8 and be there, but I always say, F8 and dont be late.....
As long as you have a steady tripod and it's not windy, I'll give you a suggestion on how to get a sharp foreground and background.
If this doesn't work it could be a possible problem with the lens. Your posted image seems too be either a missed focus or camera movement issue vs. a lens problem.
1) for an image like this I would shoot around 24-26mm
2) ISO 64-100
3) f/16
4) focus on something aprox. 5' in front of you, and make sure you don't accidentally change it when you recompose your image
This will give you a DOF of 2.42'-Infinity of acceptable sharpness.
5) calculate the proper exposure time.
I have done exposures anywhere from 2 sec. all the way up to 252 sec. with excellent results.
http://static.uglyhedgehog.com/upload/2016/1/7/1452188640738-dsc_2160.jpgISO100, f/16, 26mm, 120sec.
The reason the water looks blue is the result of using the Lee Big Stopper and not changing the color balance.
Bob
Normally I don't shoot the moon with these settings, but I was testing out ISO Auto in manual mode.
Shot handheld with the Sigma 150-600 Sport with the TC-1401 tele-converter, on a hazy evening.
Bob
The clone tool works extremely well.
Bob
Heather Iles wrote:
Bob, thanks for your response.
Yes, I do shoot in both RAW & JPEG and at times the JPEGS are so good these days that I don't do anything to them.
I have got a little PP skills, but not as much as I would like. Hopefully, I will get on with learning more during the winter months when there isn't any gardening to be done.
Have a good day, Bob and keep showing us what can be done with Affinity. I hope other members would too. Now come on members, where are you?
Actually, I'm retired from the Navy and Sears Roebuck, so I have a lot of time to play with these programs.
I usually shoot everything in raw, especially landscapes, because it captures more information, which is valuable when post processing.
Bob
Heather Iles wrote:
I love these Bob.
Am I allowed to ask do you do this for a living? If not you should.
Thank you, Heather.
No I do not do this for a living, but if you shoot in raw you need to learn some PP skills.
dpullum wrote:
Bob, I really like, and appreciate your fog. We need to keep such coming to break away from Adobe Ransomware.
lsupremo, you and Heather and a whole lot of people are struggling with the prone to failure high learning curve Adobe Products. Myself, I keep thing as simple as I can and learn what I need to get the job done often by prure chance.. In play time I take a photo and try a few clicks of this or that... at least it is not like spice in food and I have to eat it.... with photos I can hit un-do.
Often the world is filled with Serendipity....great for dipping photos in to spice them up. Photo art is often a pinball machine... combining skill and chance.
Be sure to get Topaz FREE, Studio. I played and got the photo below. It was the "new Topaz Clarity that got me working with it." <If you do not have Clarity it is an update price... like an intro for $40 and Free update if you already have Clarity> Again the base program Studio has some power built in for free. The full package of tools cost $100, what few years ago we payed $400+ As Bob Dylan said... Times they are a changin
d/p
Bob, I really like, and appreciate your fog. We ne... (
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Thanks, d/p.
If I was a "pro" making tons of money off my photography, which I'm not, $10/mo. would be acceptable. Therefore, LR5.7 and Affinity do all the things that I need to do.
I can see Affinity challenging Adobe in the near future.
Almost forgot to mention that Serif's customer service is excellent. I had a technical question, and within an hour, they responded.
Bob
Used the gradient tool and paint brush tool.
Bob
Heather Iles wrote:
Thanks Bob. Please show us more examples, as I am one who don't like Lightroom and I struggle with it. I think the problem is that it is not modern and have not moved with the times and I am retired, so what does the younger generation must think of it if I think that it is lagging behind.
I have purchased Affinity and is looking forward to learning it, so any tips would be helpful. That is what UHH is all about learning and showing other members what can be done.
Your welcome.
I use LR 5.7 along with Affinity. From the welcome screen, just click on view tutorials and it will bring up over 200 videos on different features of Affinity, a great way to learn.
Bob