Posts for: BermBuster
Mar 24, 2017 22:37:58 #
Sorry it takes me so long to respond... I moved in the last year, very rural, no internet - only 1 cell signal bar, if you stand on one leg and hold your tongue just right :) I drive a few miles for good signal, tether my laptop to my cell phone...download emails or topics like this- head home, read up and next trip respond.
But I have to say....Thank you VERY much guys! The time and thought you put into this.. from experience...is what I'd rather hear, than read some book teaching how to increase sales by manipulating the client!
I would have never known how to ask the right questions to get these types of answers. This is definitely not the type of "sales' tactics I have been exposed too. But I can relate to these! And I'm sure there are alot of others who would benefit from this too.
I worked for years.. in a business surrounded by sales people. I would hear them scheme on manipulating conversations, spin deception, practice a 'wince' in their voice... Thats not in my DNA either, & I hate to be associated in anyway with this type.
I try not to give too many options when I'm selling, because I seen to overwhelm them, they need to think-and I lose ... I also have a problem talking too much, and when someone is looking for the best deal...I seem to talk them down to less than they were expecting ... so as bkyster pointed out, I need to learn to shut up earlier :)
I always try to 'over deliver', & keep expectations realistic... not low, but exactly as promised. Because I too have been burned by high expectations from the client 'assuming' that all photographers do "this or that". I need to come up with a check sheet to put this all in writing at the get go, as Ed suggested.
Thanks again! Sorry I strayed from the 'Multiple Lighting Techniques ..." topic. Which I am enjoying also!
Kent
But I have to say....Thank you VERY much guys! The time and thought you put into this.. from experience...is what I'd rather hear, than read some book teaching how to increase sales by manipulating the client!
I would have never known how to ask the right questions to get these types of answers. This is definitely not the type of "sales' tactics I have been exposed too. But I can relate to these! And I'm sure there are alot of others who would benefit from this too.
I worked for years.. in a business surrounded by sales people. I would hear them scheme on manipulating conversations, spin deception, practice a 'wince' in their voice... Thats not in my DNA either, & I hate to be associated in anyway with this type.
I try not to give too many options when I'm selling, because I seen to overwhelm them, they need to think-and I lose ... I also have a problem talking too much, and when someone is looking for the best deal...I seem to talk them down to less than they were expecting ... so as bkyster pointed out, I need to learn to shut up earlier :)
I always try to 'over deliver', & keep expectations realistic... not low, but exactly as promised. Because I too have been burned by high expectations from the client 'assuming' that all photographers do "this or that". I need to come up with a check sheet to put this all in writing at the get go, as Ed suggested.
Thanks again! Sorry I strayed from the 'Multiple Lighting Techniques ..." topic. Which I am enjoying also!
Kent
Mar 23, 2017 12:25:57 #
Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and insights.
I personally ‘hate’ selling, and ‘educating’ customers... which I guess is unavoidable, so instead - I am always looking for ways to make buying ‘easy’.
I try not to give “too many” choices... & I’ll even take payments. I would rather not argue with you about why my pictures are better than Uncle Bob’s, but have you buy mine - because “I have a better camera”.
So I really like your idea of large framed prints & “showing to sell it”.
I might start out with some large canvas prints, and see how it goes.
Thanks again.
I personally ‘hate’ selling, and ‘educating’ customers... which I guess is unavoidable, so instead - I am always looking for ways to make buying ‘easy’.
I try not to give “too many” choices... & I’ll even take payments. I would rather not argue with you about why my pictures are better than Uncle Bob’s, but have you buy mine - because “I have a better camera”.
So I really like your idea of large framed prints & “showing to sell it”.
I might start out with some large canvas prints, and see how it goes.
Thanks again.
Mar 15, 2017 17:28:56 #
Funny thing is, I thought this would be one of those easy... "The rule of .... says when using fill.." Haha, wouldn't you know!
Ed, Thanks for giving it a thought, and there is alot of helpful info in that reply. I have never given much thought to fabrics, beyond color :)
The only reason I mentioned camera distance, is my fill is generally mounted on my camera, (With a light scoop or flash bender) & I'm on the run. I will meter it for the first shot, say my first table shot, 1stop below the main, at 5 1/2' from subjects. Then the rest of the tables I pretty much ignore it... I know I can back up about 2 1/2' before I lose a stop, & can get closer by 1 1/2' before I match the key.And it's mainly for fill....
But now after considering these suggestions from you-Jaysnave-BK, I'm thinking it's too close to the lense, and maybe too bright.(as BK pointed out "...The one on your camera is in line with the lens, and is shooting straight into the fabric, which will cause your problem.")
Unfortunately this is a rare occurrence and hard to repeat.
Ed, Thanks for giving it a thought, and there is alot of helpful info in that reply. I have never given much thought to fabrics, beyond color :)
The only reason I mentioned camera distance, is my fill is generally mounted on my camera, (With a light scoop or flash bender) & I'm on the run. I will meter it for the first shot, say my first table shot, 1stop below the main, at 5 1/2' from subjects. Then the rest of the tables I pretty much ignore it... I know I can back up about 2 1/2' before I lose a stop, & can get closer by 1 1/2' before I match the key.And it's mainly for fill....
But now after considering these suggestions from you-Jaysnave-BK, I'm thinking it's too close to the lense, and maybe too bright.(as BK pointed out "...The one on your camera is in line with the lens, and is shooting straight into the fabric, which will cause your problem.")
Unfortunately this is a rare occurrence and hard to repeat.
Mar 14, 2017 12:25:55 #
BK & Jay,
Thanks guys, I'll keep that in mind next time. I always have a lite scoop or flash bender on my on camera flash. But even though I'm mindful of my remote flash-distance. Once I meter and set my fill, I don't really care where I move too. Which - like you said , may very well be the problem.
What reminded me of this, was I had a relative ask me to edit some wedding photos she took. The bride was pretty heavy, and had a simple (Maybe something she put together) dress on, that you could see right thru. She was afraid she was going to make the bride cry if she showed these picture too her.( Of course another problem, she shot bride from fairly close, with a 28-35 lens- probly brought her from 250lbs-400lbs).
Thats what reminded me that I've had this happen a few times too.
My relative shot with a Nikon (removalable) flash (sorry-I'm not a Nikon person, don't know the model). On TTL only, and no modifier. So your suggestions again- could very well be true.
Thanks for taking the time & for the suggestions!
Kent
Thanks guys, I'll keep that in mind next time. I always have a lite scoop or flash bender on my on camera flash. But even though I'm mindful of my remote flash-distance. Once I meter and set my fill, I don't really care where I move too. Which - like you said , may very well be the problem.
What reminded me of this, was I had a relative ask me to edit some wedding photos she took. The bride was pretty heavy, and had a simple (Maybe something she put together) dress on, that you could see right thru. She was afraid she was going to make the bride cry if she showed these picture too her.( Of course another problem, she shot bride from fairly close, with a 28-35 lens- probly brought her from 250lbs-400lbs).
Thats what reminded me that I've had this happen a few times too.
My relative shot with a Nikon (removalable) flash (sorry-I'm not a Nikon person, don't know the model). On TTL only, and no modifier. So your suggestions again- could very well be true.
Thanks for taking the time & for the suggestions!
Kent
Mar 13, 2017 15:04:28 #
Hi Ed, techno babble & wordy are ok with me!
I have a question, that may be related to my lighting.... Some of my shots seem to shoot right thru clothing. I've had women wearing like a dark knit top, after I take a shot, you can easily make out their bra and straps...even though it's not noticeable with your eyes.And then I've had simple wedding dresses, kinda sheer fabric, that after the shot you can see all the layers beneath.. but with the eye, just look white. Any Ideas?
My go-to lighting set up where this shows up most, I usually have an assistant holding a Flash/shoot thru umbrella on a pole.usually within 6' - 45* up and over from camera. This is my key, then on camera flash as fill, usually with 12" diffusion panel. Indoors or out I've had this happen.
After reading your post, I'm going to try switching to on camera flash as key, and voice activated light stand as fill. I'll just have to pay attention to my distance from subject more closely.
Hopefully this makes sense - thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
I have a question, that may be related to my lighting.... Some of my shots seem to shoot right thru clothing. I've had women wearing like a dark knit top, after I take a shot, you can easily make out their bra and straps...even though it's not noticeable with your eyes.And then I've had simple wedding dresses, kinda sheer fabric, that after the shot you can see all the layers beneath.. but with the eye, just look white. Any Ideas?
My go-to lighting set up where this shows up most, I usually have an assistant holding a Flash/shoot thru umbrella on a pole.usually within 6' - 45* up and over from camera. This is my key, then on camera flash as fill, usually with 12" diffusion panel. Indoors or out I've had this happen.
After reading your post, I'm going to try switching to on camera flash as key, and voice activated light stand as fill. I'll just have to pay attention to my distance from subject more closely.
Hopefully this makes sense - thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
Mar 11, 2017 14:58:01 #
Thanks for sharing & taking the time and effort to put all this down, I've had to read it twice so far to try to absorb as much as I can. Now it's time to do a couple tests, and see if I can get some good results.
(I seem to learn more doing it wrong, and having to figure out fixes).
Really good article, thanks again!
(I seem to learn more doing it wrong, and having to figure out fixes).
Really good article, thanks again!
Feb 19, 2017 01:59:14 #
I like it! I'm going to save it as a reference for lighting. Thanks!
Feb 11, 2017 15:26:50 #
I think you are awesome! Wish I could take your class! :)
I think you are on the right track with the videos. You'll probly learn more 'practicing it', but you want to make sure you 'practice right'.
Only suggestion I can think of, maybe pick a lighting style...say short lighting, then do it with one light...then add another, or maybe a reflector, then add another etc.... It may help everyone to"see" the light better. Which can be of use in non studio applications too.
Good luck, you definitely have the right attitude!
I think you are on the right track with the videos. You'll probly learn more 'practicing it', but you want to make sure you 'practice right'.
Only suggestion I can think of, maybe pick a lighting style...say short lighting, then do it with one light...then add another, or maybe a reflector, then add another etc.... It may help everyone to"see" the light better. Which can be of use in non studio applications too.
Good luck, you definitely have the right attitude!
Feb 9, 2017 18:21:35 #
Nov 30, 2016 14:12:32 #
Hate to do it, but I'm selling my backup Light meter, with pocket wizard wireless transmitter, rarely used, like new condition.
Original owner, purchased brand new for over $400
SEKONIC Flash Master L-358 Light Meter, Includes optional RT-32CTL P/W RADIO TRANSMITTER MODULE for wireless triggering.
Retractable lumishpere dome for incident readings
& lumigrid for reflected light readings
Manual & Quick start guide
Lanyard & Leather Case
Original box & paperwork
Like new condition.(Orig Box a little rough). See pictures, email any questions.
If you are not familiar with hand held light meters;
The simple solution for creative light control, invaluable for mixing ambient and flash outdoors, or setting up light ratios with multiple flashes. Also great for reading light thru windows, off walls & in doorways.
Unlike your in camera meter, A light meter is not fooled by..light & dark clothing, complexions or back lit subjects.
~Display can be set for ~ full ~ half and third-stop intervals to mirror your camera's exposure display.
~I did not use it for video, but - For video applications, the L-358 calculates cine readings from 2 to 360 frames-per-second.
.
Original owner, purchased brand new for over $400
SEKONIC Flash Master L-358 Light Meter, Includes optional RT-32CTL P/W RADIO TRANSMITTER MODULE for wireless triggering.
Retractable lumishpere dome for incident readings
& lumigrid for reflected light readings
Manual & Quick start guide
Lanyard & Leather Case
Original box & paperwork
Like new condition.(Orig Box a little rough). See pictures, email any questions.
If you are not familiar with hand held light meters;
The simple solution for creative light control, invaluable for mixing ambient and flash outdoors, or setting up light ratios with multiple flashes. Also great for reading light thru windows, off walls & in doorways.
Unlike your in camera meter, A light meter is not fooled by..light & dark clothing, complexions or back lit subjects.
~Display can be set for ~ full ~ half and third-stop intervals to mirror your camera's exposure display.
~I did not use it for video, but - For video applications, the L-358 calculates cine readings from 2 to 360 frames-per-second.
.
Dec 10, 2015 17:30:18 #
bdk wrote:
Todays shoot wasn't easy for me, I wanted to get the sun bouncing off of the water, I also wanted to get the reflection of the jet vapor in the sky.
the issue I have is the land in the back far left, is there a way to get a better shot, So its not so hazy? or an easy way to fix it in PS6
I'd really like to learn how to eliminate that in camera and save me PS time.
the issue I have is the land in the back far left, is there a way to get a better shot, So its not so hazy? or an easy way to fix it in PS6
I'd really like to learn how to eliminate that in camera and save me PS time.
My first thought,it looks almost like lens flare, make sure you use the lens guard and maybe use a circular polarizer filter.
Nov 11, 2015 00:45:12 #
kermit wrote:
So why the tripod?
Kermit, I may be one of those people you see: But before you got to where I was set up, I arrived just before sunrise, I'm watching the way the light plays on the formations with every movement of the sun and every cloud that passes by. I'll be at that spot 'till after sunset....
My wife hates to go to national parks with me, but always loves the pictures.
Mar 24, 2015 10:07:31 #
I leave mine in One shot mode.
I almost always have a flash on camera...even in bright daylight.I might not have the flash set to fire, but will use the auto focus assist beam.
If I don't leave the camera in single shot mode, the auto assist focus beam will not work.
I almost always have a flash on camera...even in bright daylight.I might not have the flash set to fire, but will use the auto focus assist beam.
If I don't leave the camera in single shot mode, the auto assist focus beam will not work.
Mar 6, 2015 16:50:59 #
Just for clarification...I use these triggers & flashes on a Canon.
Yongnuo 560 IV is a "Manual Flash'...that has a built in trigger. the Yongnuo RF-603NII-N3 triggers ($30 pair) will fire this flash. "Without" mounting one on the flash.
The 622 triggers are for ttl.And will fire the flash if one is mounted on the flash.But the TTL function will NOT work.
The YONGNUO YN560-TX remote controller-if mounted on the camera, will let you set groups & change the flash power remotely at the camera.
Just a note...the Yongnuo 560 IV Flash, has this - TX-controller built in, so if you mount this flash on your camera, you can set power and groups to other 560 flashes from it.
Hope this helps and isn't confusing - I agree, the manuals are terrible.
Yongnuo 560 IV is a "Manual Flash'...that has a built in trigger. the Yongnuo RF-603NII-N3 triggers ($30 pair) will fire this flash. "Without" mounting one on the flash.
The 622 triggers are for ttl.And will fire the flash if one is mounted on the flash.But the TTL function will NOT work.
The YONGNUO YN560-TX remote controller-if mounted on the camera, will let you set groups & change the flash power remotely at the camera.
Just a note...the Yongnuo 560 IV Flash, has this - TX-controller built in, so if you mount this flash on your camera, you can set power and groups to other 560 flashes from it.
Hope this helps and isn't confusing - I agree, the manuals are terrible.
Feb 11, 2015 09:43:23 #
I'm guessing you are thinking it will affect the TTL metering of the flash when the light conditions change ?
I have not noticed any difference. Try a test...focus on something with the lights on - take a picture, then turn the lights off(or visa versa)...don't touch the back focus button and take another shot.
i don't think you will tell a difference.
I have not noticed any difference. Try a test...focus on something with the lights on - take a picture, then turn the lights off(or visa versa)...don't touch the back focus button and take another shot.
i don't think you will tell a difference.