Gene51 wrote:
I would strongly suggest you modify your workflow. The preview screen on your camera is intended for composition and image information - histogram, over/under exposure indication, image data, camera settings, etc.
It is a horrible tool to use for exposure (by eye) reference, and for color evaluation. That is not what it is designed for.
Your histogram and overexposure indicator (an option you usually have to turn on and will show blown highlights as either a different color or blinking) are your best indicators for correct exposure. 90% of the time using the camera's metering system will result in good exposures, so I would rely on that primarily.
As far as your display, you need to profile it so that it provides a neutral color balance AND a proper brightness (gamma) so that your images on screen resemble your images in print. This will also ensure that any images you post online will look correct as well. You will also have a lot of trouble getting your work printed by a lab, since they will not be working with a neutral image, as they cannot see the adjustments you have made that are specific to your printer.
Adjusting the printer to an out of whack display may result in ok prints, but you can forget achieving good tone and color in any images that you post online or send by email.
When you profile, you should use .4 cda/m^2 for a black point, and 80 cda/m^2 for a white point. This should give you a reasonable result.
Do not adjust your printer driver. Use your default printer settings for the printer paper, or, if you use good quality third party paper, then use the paper profiles and settings provided by the paper mfgr to soft-proof you image and set up your printer for proper ink flow and density on the specific paper.
I would strongly suggest you modify your workflow.... (
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I do check histograms. Some times I shoot with the intention of bending the curve and setting my own parameters for D log E. I shoot 3 different Nikons The screens are all pretty matched. So I do use them to quick reference my exposure. So without using a calorimeter to calibrate you computer screen, my eye seems a good place to view. I am pretty much expert in densitometry/sensitometry.
Defaults are designed for give you a plain Jane good representation. If you have a modified exposure (by choice) the printer defaults will pull the image back (or try) to the print standard. So it re-adjusts the curve. It will not analyze the curve you sent it and use it. So you need to be able to send the printer instructions to match your curve. These are print profiles (In olden days called film terms). As far as I know Adobe Photo Shop is the only program that does this well and allows you to store those profiles. There are some others but not many. Yes every time you change paper and or ink (batch to batch variation). You have to adjust the print profile. If you had more controls you could print a step wedge, read it with a densitometer and calibrate your process.. Not easily doable with amateur equipment for printing.