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Posts for: crazydaddio
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Jul 11, 2017 13:59:25   #
speters wrote:
Don't expect any miracles, the changes are very minute ( in the fractions of millimeters)! And if you do weddings, it's not worth your time, as Photoshop does not support it as of yet. You will have to process that in DPP, so it would totally ruin any workflow!!


Agreed
Would only turn it on for those F1.4 shots which will only be about 5-10% of the shots....and usually portrait, artistic getting ready shots. Will use my other glass that has razor sharp focus for run and gun and family shots.(2.8 to 8 aperature) ßwhere you have a bigger DOF range. Using DPP to create a TIFF file and then add to LR should be a smaller hit to the workflow.
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Jul 11, 2017 08:26:38   #
burkphoto wrote:
Continuously upgrade your knowledge of, and experience with, photography. Then upgrade your glass. Then get another body.

Knowledge controls light coming through good glass to form images; bodies record that.


...i would upgrade the glass and your knowledge and experience at the same time...you may discover that as you research what to buy (and take your time!) you will discover terminology, use cases, examples etc that will cause you to go out and try shots you never thought of... dont buy the glass right away but try to take the shots with the equipment you have and then rent or borrow and compare the output to existing....then you will appreciate whether the investment is worth it . (...this process is well worn by us GAS addicts...you are about to be bitten by the GAS bug so start saving.....and buy EF L lenses (full frame compatible) where possible....they will stand up to time and have good resale value...

Unless you are doing really low light....the T5i will do fine.
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Jul 11, 2017 00:14:36   #
Cant seem to attach pics....hmmmm
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Jul 11, 2017 00:05:12   #
Oahu : Diamond Head. East coast for fantastic wild surf (long lens needed) and craggy high shorelines with parking spots for lookouts. I was not super impressed with the North Shores famous pipeline areas. Waterfalls are not as good as Kauia or Maui but there are a few. Pearl harbour is a good 1/2 day+.

It is worth the drive to the east coast shoreline.
I will attach a few pics....

As for luaus etc....no experience. We hiked and took scenery pics and watched surfers :-)
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Jul 10, 2017 23:07:21   #
Anyone use Dual Pixel Raw on their 5DmkIV?
Shooting 4 weddings in August and I am thinking I will enable that 70meg dual file beast for those F1.4 shots with my absolutely terrible focusing but incredibly sharp Sigma 50mm Art lens.
I am noticing that my "perfect" rate is really low at F1.4...but over 1/2 are within acceptable range of the "eyelash to catchlight" zone.
DPR should allow me to dial it in?

Looking for anyone who has tried it in a run and gun situation and whether it made a difference when you got to PP to save a few....

(and yes, tried live view, zoom to focus (too slow for my workflow), tried microadjustments with Sigma dock and in-camera - that frickin lens is random!! (and it was my 2nd copy, the first was worse.)
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Jul 9, 2017 12:40:07   #
FiddleMaker wrote:
So with back button focus as long as you keep the back button pressed, the camera will keep focusing. But release the back button and the focus is frozen. Have I got this right?? I am using a D750. I was always a tad confused on this issue.


Bingo. Stays where you last focused when you remove your finger. Even in portrait settings. Focus once and reframe as many times as you want...

...a little intermediate tip for fast action...sometimes you need to take your finger off and then back on really quickly if you want to change the focus target when things are moving quickly . Cameras have AF tweaks that will try to lock you on target so it does not shift the focus to something that might sprint in front of the camera (like a lamppost while panning:-) ....however, sometimes you will WANT to shift the focus target and then you do a quick off back on the BBF to grab the new target....
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Jul 9, 2017 12:21:11   #
lmTrying wrote:
I had just bought this Dslr 30 days before. My first real digital. I had to learn fast or go home empty camera. Chimp, think, and tweak was the fastest method that seemed to work.


I have been shooting for 4 years and its still a good method for me.... I will say that with experience, I can almost nail the exposure on the first shot (shutter, Iso, aperature) and only need 1 chimp/histogram/tweak shoot cycle. Aperature for DOF and shutter to freeze motion/higher for exposure and ISO for final exposure as necessary. By the time the viewfinder is to my face I am already dialing in aperature and shutter, quick check of the exposure meter in the viewfinder....use shutter or iso for final exposure pointing at target, finger holding down BBF, and then BANG (I am always on continuous so it might be 3 quick bangs)

Even if I don't nail it, its usually close enough for a lightroom tweak to make it perfect.

Practice practice practice....in all conditions.

Put it in a holster, have a someone yell "draw" and see how fast you you squeeze off the perfect round .... :-)

(....and I have NEVER come close to what I wanted using any Auto settings....I was on Manual within the first 30days of my first DSLR and never looked back...)

....good for you for learning fast, you will be rewarded !!!
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Jul 9, 2017 08:52:43   #
New school = manual set, chimp, tweak, chimp, tweak, chimp, final tweak.....and then pp for prefection. .....

Great image SOOC and every shot could use a little tweaking (although i cant see where....this is really good) and no need to apologize for the process :-)
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Jul 9, 2017 08:18:03   #
Always use continuous and BBF....especially wedding run and gun.....Unless in a studio on a tripod....then liveview, zoom in and then manual focus tweaking for the eye if necessary.

However....I can be convinced otherwise....thanks for the question....looking forward to the answers....
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Jul 9, 2017 08:14:30   #
Best series of responses to a specific question I have seen to date. Gold star for the UHH family :-)
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Jul 9, 2017 07:55:49   #
Aging is a consideration but also consider the ground you need to lay on to get that low angle shot. If its mud or wet ground, you either need to be really committed to it or have a vari screen. Oddly, the only thing that would make me dump my 6D for the 6DmkII is the screen....but not at that price and it does not have dual slot....sorry Canon, no dual slot means no GAS for you.... The 5DmkIV with a vari screen would be the ultimate camera for me as it would be my 70D+6D combined with dual slot. (Ok, I might still buy the 6Dmkii when the price comes down as I could dump my 70D and 6D with only the loss of the reach of the 70D crop....and not dumping my Canon glass to go Sony just yet)
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Jun 30, 2017 07:05:23   #
Both bodies. Double BR strap. 150-600 for outfield and either of the other 2 for dugout. The 150-600 will capture closeups of the pitcher. Batter etc from a distance.

Practice practice practice.
....for the 150-600-》
1600min shutter speed, 6.3aperature, auto ISO.
Center AF - Servo mode (canon), continuous drive, (learn to use Back button focus if you can assign the AF-ON button to trigger the AF (take the AF off of the shutter button so it doesnt refocus on you)

...and ignore all the advise above if you dont have time to goof around and practice ...use the settings you are comfy with :-)

....and you may want to get a cheap monopod....the 150-600 will wear you out handholding it...
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Jun 28, 2017 05:19:42   #
robertjerl wrote:
Between this thread and another I have seen 3 or 4 people say the 6D has 9 focus points.
Wrong, it has 11.
The Rebel line had 9 focus points through the 5 series, then they went to 19 with the 6 series and with the 7 series they jumped to 45. The 70D had 19 and the 80D started the 45 point AF that has now spread to everything below the 5, 7, 1 series cameras.


Noted.
....been so long since I considered using anything but the center AF point I forgot bow many were there.... :)
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Jun 27, 2017 14:09:54   #
Selene03 wrote:
I switched from a Nikon D600 to the 6D shortly after the two cameras came out, as I got tired of constantly having to get the D600 cleaned and always having to clone out oil spots. Once Nikon agreed to replace the shutter on the D600, I thought I would go back to it but I found I preferred the 6D even though spec-wise everything about the D600 was better. What I liked so much about the 6D was first the ease of using it. After much comparison, I decided I really preferred the way Canon sets up their cameras (this is a very personal thing--sort of like Mac vs PC). I also liked the fact that the 6D could pretty much see in the dark, that I could get focus on subjects I could not with the Nikon. This is important not just in low light in the early mornings and before sunset in the evening, but in dark buildings, caves etc where flash is not allowed. The fact that you could photos at high ISOs without much noise is also a big plus. I then gradually acquired a good assortment of Canon L lenses, many of which were not all that expensive compared to their Nikon counterparts and were wonderful pieces of glass. The image quality of the 6D with the right lenses is wonderful. The camera is also very small and light for a full-frame camera. These are all powerful reasons for getting the camera especially at its current price.

What I found limiting, and why I now have the 5D Mk IV: 1) the autofocus system--that had only 9 points with one center vertical/horizontal cross--I think it limited me a bit in spite of work arounds, 2) the slow frame rate, 3) I wanted more resolution, 4) the mode dial kept falling off. There were other things like flash sync, but none of these were all that important. All of these limitations appear to be eliminated with the new 6D II.

Still, I wouldn't hesitate recommending the 6D to anyone. Even as old technology, it is an amazing camera that produces very high quality images without a lot of effort and should serve you well for a long time still.
I switched from a Nikon D600 to the 6D shortly aft... (show quote)


My twin :-)
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Jun 27, 2017 11:01:41   #
burkphoto wrote:
When you have a raw file, it is analogous to working with exposed, undeveloped film. It must be developed into a bitmap before it can be printed, just as the latent image on film must be developed into a negative.

A bitmap is an array of RGB pixel values. To save it, metadata (data *about* data, or how to interpret it) is added, and the result is stored in one of dozens of different file formats (usually .psd, .tif, .jpg...).

BUT, before that bitmap is saved into a file (exported), it can be sent to a printer driver.

When we say we "print a raw image," we really mean we are "printing an on-the-fly bitmap conversion of it." This allows immediate feedback, review, RE-CONVERSION, adjustment, reprinting...

So, the difference is that a raw image can be RE-developed infinitely into a gazillion variations. Film is developed once.

Time, temperature, agitation, and choice of developer affect the permanent potential of a negative. But a raw file can be developed over and over, in different "developers" (software applications), to subtly change what's in the bitmap. The raw data NEVER changes.

The power of this is that you never lose the ability to change your mind about how the image should look.

You CAN store a 16-bit TIFF file of an adjusted image without losing anything in the conversion, but once you do that, you lose the ability to redevelop the image in the way you can redevelop raw files. A raw conversion allows the purest image adjustments possible.

That's why we "print from raw."

How big a deal is this? It depends. Are you selling a $20,000 celebrity portrait, or printing a 60" x 40" landscape for a MOMA exhibition? Or just a snapshot of a funny face at a kid's birthday party? I would print the first two from raw, and the party pix from JPEGs.
When you have a raw file, it is analogous to worki... (show quote)


When you say "print from RAW" do you mean develop the RAW in LR/ACR and then create the JPEG and print that (vs printing the JPEG from the camera or printing tweaked JPEG camera file) ?
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