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Posts for: fjwallace
Feb 2, 2018 17:17:20 #
Hi,
It was a gray paper and there is no f-stop since this is a finite objective on a bellows. Thanks for your comments.
It was a gray paper and there is no f-stop since this is a finite objective on a bellows. Thanks for your comments.
Feb 2, 2018 15:30:34 #
Feb 2, 2018 15:13:15 #
Hi,
I've been trying to improve my macro-photos and have built several different set-ups. I currently have an aluminum rail set-up which has everything bolted or clamped down - I can literally yank on things and they don't move (see pic). I still find I am getting unclear, unsharp images despite having crystal clear, sharp images in my LCD view finder (even when magnified). I am using a Nikon D5200 camera with bellows and a LWD 20x 160mm finite objective and remote shutter release. I adjusted the bellows to 160 mm from where I think the sensor is located. I thought it was a focus issue so I took a stack of 40 images of some textured paper with my Stackshot without delayed shutter and with delayed shutter (supposed to flip the mirror before the shot to reduce vibration). I looked through both stacks of images and there were no clear, sharp images. I could see it approaching focus but then it passed. I have included the best focused example from each cropped quite a bit to show the problem better. I can't figure out why it would look gorgeous in the LCD viewer and then come out totally awful in the camera! Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
Jon
I've been trying to improve my macro-photos and have built several different set-ups. I currently have an aluminum rail set-up which has everything bolted or clamped down - I can literally yank on things and they don't move (see pic). I still find I am getting unclear, unsharp images despite having crystal clear, sharp images in my LCD view finder (even when magnified). I am using a Nikon D5200 camera with bellows and a LWD 20x 160mm finite objective and remote shutter release. I adjusted the bellows to 160 mm from where I think the sensor is located. I thought it was a focus issue so I took a stack of 40 images of some textured paper with my Stackshot without delayed shutter and with delayed shutter (supposed to flip the mirror before the shot to reduce vibration). I looked through both stacks of images and there were no clear, sharp images. I could see it approaching focus but then it passed. I have included the best focused example from each cropped quite a bit to show the problem better. I can't figure out why it would look gorgeous in the LCD viewer and then come out totally awful in the camera! Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
Jon
New Set-up
Paper with delayed shutter
Paper without delayed shutter
Feb 2, 2018 15:07:11 #
Hi,
I've been trying to improve my macro-photos and have built several different set-ups. I currently have an aluminum rail set-up which has everything bolted or clamped down - I can literally yank on things and they don't move (see pic). I still find I am getting unclear, unsharp images despite having crystal clear, sharp images in my LCD view finder (even when magnified). I am using a Nikon D5200 camera with bellows and a LWD 20x 160mm finite objective. I adjusted the bellows to 160 mm from where I think the sensor is located. I thought it was a focus issue so I took a stack of 40 images of some textured paper with my Stackshot without delayed shutter and with delayed shutter (supposed to flip the mirror before the shot to reduce vibration). I looked through both stacks of images and there were no clear, sharp images. I could see it approaching focus but then it passed. I have included the best focused example from each cropped quite a bit to show the problem better. I can't figure out why it would look gorgeous in the LCD viewer and then come out totally awful in the camera! Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
Jon
I've been trying to improve my macro-photos and have built several different set-ups. I currently have an aluminum rail set-up which has everything bolted or clamped down - I can literally yank on things and they don't move (see pic). I still find I am getting unclear, unsharp images despite having crystal clear, sharp images in my LCD view finder (even when magnified). I am using a Nikon D5200 camera with bellows and a LWD 20x 160mm finite objective. I adjusted the bellows to 160 mm from where I think the sensor is located. I thought it was a focus issue so I took a stack of 40 images of some textured paper with my Stackshot without delayed shutter and with delayed shutter (supposed to flip the mirror before the shot to reduce vibration). I looked through both stacks of images and there were no clear, sharp images. I could see it approaching focus but then it passed. I have included the best focused example from each cropped quite a bit to show the problem better. I can't figure out why it would look gorgeous in the LCD viewer and then come out totally awful in the camera! Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
Jon
New Macro Set-up
Paper with delayed shutter
Paper without delayed shutter
Jan 22, 2018 10:37:26 #
Hi,
Thanks for your replies - I think it is probably a 'normal' amount of play but is visible in my current usage (20 x magnification). I will try to find a camera shop that will evaluate it though to be sure. I use aluminum rails and StackShot and everything is very secure - bolted in place so this is the only 'vibration' source I can think of. I use a variety of lens set-ups - in this case I am using an extension tube (need an extension to attach the camera to the bellows), old Nikon model II bellows and a 20 x objective. I've used this set-up with a 4 x objective and once with 10 x - the extra magnification must have pushed it over some limit. I've also tried it on a microscope and get the same problem while my digital microscope camera captures much better detailed images (no movement - or shutter, but lower quality images). Thanks again everyone for all your help!
Thanks for your replies - I think it is probably a 'normal' amount of play but is visible in my current usage (20 x magnification). I will try to find a camera shop that will evaluate it though to be sure. I use aluminum rails and StackShot and everything is very secure - bolted in place so this is the only 'vibration' source I can think of. I use a variety of lens set-ups - in this case I am using an extension tube (need an extension to attach the camera to the bellows), old Nikon model II bellows and a 20 x objective. I've used this set-up with a 4 x objective and once with 10 x - the extra magnification must have pushed it over some limit. I've also tried it on a microscope and get the same problem while my digital microscope camera captures much better detailed images (no movement - or shutter, but lower quality images). Thanks again everyone for all your help!
Jan 22, 2018 08:44:10 #
Hi,
I've been doing some pretty demanding macro/micro-focus stacking and tried to find my vibration issues and found that the connection between the lens and camera is fairly loose - not a problem for normal macro but it showed up for this project. I have a Nikon D5200 camera. Is it normal to have 'play' in the connection or do I have a problem. If it is normal, is there a simple solution to make it more rigid (tape it to the body or something else)? Thanks! Jon
I've been doing some pretty demanding macro/micro-focus stacking and tried to find my vibration issues and found that the connection between the lens and camera is fairly loose - not a problem for normal macro but it showed up for this project. I have a Nikon D5200 camera. Is it normal to have 'play' in the connection or do I have a problem. If it is normal, is there a simple solution to make it more rigid (tape it to the body or something else)? Thanks! Jon
Nov 18, 2017 15:53:39 #
Thanks for your reply!
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Nov 18, 2017 10:44:07 #
Wonderful shots! How do you shoot - tripod; handheld; flash...? Thanks and please keep posting.
Nov 17, 2017 08:44:07 #
Great shots!
How do you shoot - with a tripod or free-hand? Flash? Thanks!
How do you shoot - with a tripod or free-hand? Flash? Thanks!
Sep 29, 2017 16:07:39 #
Thanks everyone for your answers - very helpful!
Sep 29, 2017 08:24:55 #
I've been experimenting with focus stacking and have been racking up the shutter count. When the shutter dies, can it be replaced or is the camera dead and needs to be replaced? If it can be replaced, is the cost so prohibitive that replacing the camera makes sense? I have a Nikon D5200. Thanks!
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Apr 16, 2017 08:47:31 #
Hi,
Wow - once again a lot of great responses - thanks so much!!! I will check out the release options you mention - I didn't see it when I was searching.
When I referred to switching to manual mode I meant switching the lens from autofocus to manual.
I hadn't thought about the focus needing to be pressed half way before shooting - in my excitement I could imagine just pressing it completely down - I'll test that one out as well as the rest.
Once again, thanks so much for all the help!
Wow - once again a lot of great responses - thanks so much!!! I will check out the release options you mention - I didn't see it when I was searching.
When I referred to switching to manual mode I meant switching the lens from autofocus to manual.
I hadn't thought about the focus needing to be pressed half way before shooting - in my excitement I could imagine just pressing it completely down - I'll test that one out as well as the rest.
Once again, thanks so much for all the help!
Apr 15, 2017 09:29:06 #
Thanks for the quick replies. First, the problem does not seem to be temperature related - I have been in the house (where the camera was stored as well so it was at the same temp.) and started shooting and it worked for a few frames then died - sometimes when I switch to manual and shoot a few, then I can go back and it works again.
I am afraid I don't know how to switch my camera to shoot when I press the button despite focus. I have it set to 'single shot' - there is also a continuous low and high burst shooting and then a few self timer and remote settings - I don't see a setting for this.
The camera will not shoot if there is no SD card (I've done that one a few times!)
Thanks again!
I am afraid I don't know how to switch my camera to shoot when I press the button despite focus. I have it set to 'single shot' - there is also a continuous low and high burst shooting and then a few self timer and remote settings - I don't see a setting for this.
The camera will not shoot if there is no SD card (I've done that one a few times!)
Thanks again!
Apr 15, 2017 08:33:48 #
Hi,
This is my first post. I have 'lurked' here, learning a lot, and finally find I need some help.
I've had this camera out for service twice before over a period of 3 years, for the same issue and was either told there was no issue detected or that they fixed it and no explanation was given. Has anyone else had this problem?
I was shooting a bald eagle in my yard (a really rare event!) the other day and I had the camera on a portrait setting (I had been taking pics of the grand-kids and was in a rush...) which has an auto ISO etc. and I had on my 55-300 mm lens at 300 mm. When I tried to shoot in auto-focus it shot a few frames then died - I quickly switched to manual and was able to shoot again. It was getting ready to take off and I figured I'd try auto again so it would focus continuously as it flew over - I couldn't get off a single shot. I have had this problem with the kit lens (18-55 mm) that came with the camera as well so it is not the lens and as I said it is intermittent. I have used the camera a lot with focus stacking in manual mode and it works just fine, for hundreds of shots sometimes, so I think the contacts must be o.k. as well. Before I try to send it out, yet again, at my expense this time, I wanted to know if anyone has had this problem and if you know of a cause/cure (other than working in manual mode all the time). Thanks!
This is my first post. I have 'lurked' here, learning a lot, and finally find I need some help.
I've had this camera out for service twice before over a period of 3 years, for the same issue and was either told there was no issue detected or that they fixed it and no explanation was given. Has anyone else had this problem?
I was shooting a bald eagle in my yard (a really rare event!) the other day and I had the camera on a portrait setting (I had been taking pics of the grand-kids and was in a rush...) which has an auto ISO etc. and I had on my 55-300 mm lens at 300 mm. When I tried to shoot in auto-focus it shot a few frames then died - I quickly switched to manual and was able to shoot again. It was getting ready to take off and I figured I'd try auto again so it would focus continuously as it flew over - I couldn't get off a single shot. I have had this problem with the kit lens (18-55 mm) that came with the camera as well so it is not the lens and as I said it is intermittent. I have used the camera a lot with focus stacking in manual mode and it works just fine, for hundreds of shots sometimes, so I think the contacts must be o.k. as well. Before I try to send it out, yet again, at my expense this time, I wanted to know if anyone has had this problem and if you know of a cause/cure (other than working in manual mode all the time). Thanks!
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