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Jan 17, 2024 23:46:28   #
burkphoto wrote:
[off topic]:

As for knowledge, we become what we think about. I got hooked on photography at an early age. I think about two thirds of what I know about it, I learned in high school, but not from courses. I read voraciously — books, encyclopedias, and magazines on photography — and photographed something every day for the school paper or yearbook. By the time I started my AV job at a portrait photography and yearbook company at 23, I also had six years in radio production, a liberal arts degree, and 15 years of serious writing behind me. So the rest was easy. I joined industry professional associations, went to conventions and seminars... total immersion. It's been a lifetime passion.

UHH is a hobby of "giving back" to the industry that gave me a very decent retirement. If you think I might help you get your workflow fine tuned, just ask.

For cataract removal, I had toric lenses implanted in 2008 (they correct astigmatism and nearsightedness). They have been decent, a FAR better solution than no surgery, but I have two problems: persistent dry eye and flare in my left eye from oncoming headlights during night driving.

My Opthalmologist says I can have the film that has developed on the back of my left lens removed with a laser. If it gets much worse, I may do that. Generally, I'm very glad I had the surgery. My parents and sister all had cataracts, and all had surgery to alleviate them. We've all had similar annoyances.

I'm see well in bright sun with simple non-corrective sunglasses (or bifocal sunglasses with 2X readers at the bottom of the lenses if I'm on my phone). In dim light, I wear progressives that also correct residual astigmatism in one eye.
off topic : br br As for knowledge, we become wh... (show quote)


I have noticed that you do a lot of sincere "giving back" to the UHH members. And I pictured you having a large high tech personal lab. Oops. Your White Paper changed that mind's eye picture. But your words define a very knowledgeable career. Never have I doubted your statements.

Without the cataract surgery I probably wouldn't be able to see much. I also got the toric lenses, but I still wear glasses for close vision. Legally I can drive without glasses and often do. I also have dry eyes. Yes, that's fun, especially when I forget to take drops with me. I have already had that film zapped off of one lens. Very simple and very quick. Have somebody drive you because they're going to dilate you. For me that usually means I'll have a headache the rest of the day. Sitting at my computer, I have to close the curtains not to be blinded in one eye. To make it more fun, like my older sister, I have advanced to needing a refractive lens to keep from seeing double. That thing of not needing my glasses to drive kinda went bye bye. And I have gotten the joy of ocular migraines. I keep closer tabs on Sis cause I seem to be following her lead. I just hope I don't get her headaches.

So any time you want to talk eyes n getting old in general send a PM.

Bill
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Jan 17, 2024 17:36:14   #
Longshadow wrote:
No problem.

No, incorrect. RAW is a file format the camera can save. No "settings" are applied to it. The settings are be applied to JPEGS (another save format for most cameras). Any difference one may see in an editor, which is simply a rendition of the RAW data, may be adjusted what your settings may have been. The RAW data itself is still the same, unaffected by the settings. The visual display in the editor of the RAW data may be adjusted in the editor display that one sees, but not the data itself. The settings used are also stored as part of the RAW data. That's how some editors "start" with creating the image your editor shows you, the editor may apply your settings when it creates your working view in the editor.
The white balance setting is used to create the JPEG in the camera, IF you save JPEGS.


Think of RAW as all the collected sensor data only. It has to be interpreted (the data processed) by the editor in order for the editor to show you an image that you can work with. At that point it is NOT a JPEG you are viewing, but a rendition of that data the editor created for you to see. (That's why an editor "save" option is "Save AS". That's when the editor does the conversion to JPEG, when saving the file. Cameras set to save JPEGS do the conversion IN THE CAMERA and save the JPEG file.

My RAW editor does a preliminary adjustment based on settings that the camera was set for. Some editors do not.

So what file format(s) do you have the camera save?
No problem. br br No, incorrect. RAW is a file fo... (show quote)


My head hurts. LOL.

Maybe part of my confusion has come from my XSi. I set it to record raw. But when I downloaded files to my computer, some were tagged CR2, others were tagged jpeg. CR2 is a raw file, correct?

Then I got an RP. Again, I set it to record raw. When I downloaded into my computer I get two files, a CR3 displaying no image and another file showing the image. Both show the same image number.

So, are you saying that setting the white balance in camera will negate the in camera raw file and change it to a jpeg?

The rest of your information about post processing I pretty well followed.
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Jan 17, 2024 16:50:26   #
DirtFarmer wrote:
Not correct.
You can set shutter speed, aperture, focus, ISO and anything else you like. Anything else will be used to generate the image on your camera's monitor and the preview in the raw file. There may be a couple other things that will affect the raw data, but no matter what settings you use, your camera can still produce a raw file. Or a raw file AND a jpg. There is some suggestion that the other settings will be written into the metadata of the raw file but I have no confirmation of that and the raw file format is not an open source thing. Even if they are written into the metadata, they are not used in the generation of the raw data contained in the raw file.
Not correct. br You can set shutter speed, apertur... (show quote)


And I thought I was getting a handle on this raw thing. I have my XSi set to record raw. But when I downloaded into my computer, some files were tagged CR2, others were tagged JEPG. Do you know why? I don't.
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Jan 17, 2024 16:38:52   #
User ID wrote:
Tes, you sgould reply "both".

Also, "shooting" and "saving" are a single. act. Maybe deep inside the workings of technology those are separate steps in a sequence. But they are one human act, so YOU shoot jpeg or raw. Your human action, what YOU do, is what the poll is asking about.

If know too much about how the sausage is made, leave that at the door whenever you enter Hawgsterville.


Thank you. I did not know that shooting and saving are considered to be a single act. I had been corrected years ago that shooting jpeg was a form of in camera post processing. So that has probably influenced my thinking.
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Jan 17, 2024 16:05:41   #
Longshadow wrote:
RAW is all the sensor data, untouched, not directly transportable for viewing, no "settings" involved.
Camera "settings" create a JPEG/TIFF/whatever (IF DESIRED), a directly transportable (usable) file for viewing.
Settings typically do NOT affect the contents of the RAW file, only the converted file (JPEG).
Speed and aperture only affect the amount of light captured by the sensor (image data for a lighter/darker image).

If you save RAW on one card and JPEG on another card, yes, you are shooting both.

Try not to make mountains out of mole hills.
RAW is i all the sensor data /i , untouched, not ... (show quote)


Sorry, I was not trying to make mountains.

I thought about going PM, but thought maybe someone else might learn from my mistakes.

Please correct me if I am wrong. To shoot raw, I can set shutter speed and aperture, but nothing else. Setting anything else like ISO or white balance puts me in jpeg. Correct?

User ID hot me straighten out on "both". So you can take my vote out of the survey.
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Jan 17, 2024 15:42:01   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Yes because you do understand what he meant but trying to interpret it another way.


No, because I still don't understand how some terms are used or, evidently, what they mean to most of you.

Yes, I did "interupt it another way", because untill an hour ago. my interpretation was different. Now I know.
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Jan 17, 2024 13:25:11   #
Longshadow wrote:
Sorry, I didn't know I needed to be so explicit.
Very little deductive reasoning to figure that if one's camera is capable of RAW+JPEG that is both.

Over 95% of the respondents DID figure that out.
I keep forgetting that some have to be hand-held and can't figure things out for themselves.


Oops. I'm going to quit making short responses. That always seems to turn out badly.

Please help me understand. So many photography terms seem to be used in different ways.

In the words of Obi-Wan Kenobi, "from a certain point of view", all digital cameras shoot in RAW or Raw or raw (whatever is correct), because that is what the sensor sees. What the camera's processor does with that information that it sends to the recording medium determines if it is recorded as RAW or JEPG high or low, or BOTH.

Maybe I'm confused.

The original question is, what do you shoot?

I am aware that some cameras can be set up to save RAW on one card and Jpeg on a second card. It is my understanding that some can be set up to save both RAW and Jpeg on the same card. But this is saving the file to the SD card, not shooting.

Depending on what camera I'm using; RAW is not an option for the SX710HS. Otherwise I try to shoot in RAW. At least I have tried to set things up that way. What my XSi and RP actually save to the SD card sometimes surprises me.

Which brings me to this: I have asked the following question before because I have not found a clear explanation, and I have not received an answer from anyone on UHH. Is there a specific way, or group of settings to use, to shoot RAW?

Does setting ISO, shutter speed, aperture, and anything else negate RAW?

So, what do I shoot? With one camera only JEPG. With another camera , RAW, I think. So to answer the posted question, BOTH.

Or is my logic flawed?

I'm Trying to learn.
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Jan 17, 2024 11:55:47   #
Longshadow wrote:
That's what "both" is meant to imply, RAW+JPEG.
Not sometimes one, then sometimes the other.


Your original post did not specify what "BOTH" means.
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Jan 17, 2024 10:00:09   #
Longshadow wrote:
The question was prompted by a comment in another thread.

INSTRUCTIONS: Post only ONE WORD: "RAW"; "JPEG"; or "BOTH".
No dissertations, no explanations as to why, no opinions, no recommendations,...
no matter how badly you feel you have to.

ANY response other than ONE of the three words will not be tallied.


Both
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Jan 16, 2024 23:54:17   #
burkphoto wrote:
Hey, I'm sorry if I touched a nerve. I actually have quite average gear, accumulated over several years. My results come mostly from knowing what to do with what I have. The essential components of my copy setup cost about $800, or less than a good flatbed scanner, and offer additional uses far beyond just copying film.

My copy stand cost $86 in parts from the home store. I now know how to build a better one for half that, thanks to YouTube.

The light source and power supply cost around $55 for the light and AC adapter.

The EFH-09-SA film holder kit for 35mm and 120 films costs about $85 at current exchange rates. I added about $25 for the railroad board (black foam core board) and a 3' piece of 1"x2" framing lumber.

The macro lens can be had used for around $190 to $240. I had that anyway, for general photography, since it makes a good portrait lens for couples and waist-up compositions.

The GH4 camera I use can be had used for around $340 to $470. I had that for photography and video.

I, too, have implanted lenses from cataract surgery, and have similar frustrations...
Hey, I'm sorry if I touched a nerve. I actually ha... (show quote)


No, no nerve touched. I assumed,.., and made.... Well that's never a good thing to do.

I got about half way through your white paper before my eyelids dropped. Your knowledge of all aspects of photography is impressive, while your equipment is quite humble. I've been amazed at your constructs. But my knowledge of the technical aspects of photography are way below yours. You've spent your lifetime in this pursuit. For me it's just one of many hobbies. I'm not sure I could build and make my own gadgets that I would happy with as you have. I will probably stay in my comfort level. But I do admire your hard earned knowledge, your willingness to help and teach those of us in need. You go to great lengths to provide understandable explanations, and I appreciate that.

Sometimes I attempt to give a short version of my thoughts, and that always seems to backfire. I think it did again.

No had feelings on my end. I hope I did not cause any on your end.

On the subject of cataracts. I'm not happy that you are having problems. I'm just happy to know that I am not alone. I went for the corrective implants. The doctor told me after it was all said and done that my left eye was lazy. Odd, it never was before. As I move my head around, I find spots in my glasses that are sharper that others. Some lights (LEDs) drive my eyes crazy. Bright sun was hard to deal with, now it's overcast days. Two years and I still wear the sun glasses they gave me. Any thing sound familiar? I'm considering going back to ground glass lenses. Yes, they're heavier, but these plastic ones are driving me crazy. And after 33 years of teaching school, it's gonna be a short drive.

Thanx and enjoy what you can.
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Jan 16, 2024 16:36:54   #
Architect1776 wrote:
I found a bit of experimenting at first let me see what can be done and how to do it easily.
I tried cutting frames for odd negatives but what a pain.
I don't know what holders you got with your scanner and I am guessing that I got quite a bit more it seems.
Prints are very easy, just scan.
Film that is not standard I use a supplied glass frame that is the size of the scanner plate opening. I just lay it on the scanner and put the glass piece over it.
Sorry I can't help more but I do things as simply as possible. Likely not perfect but for 100 year old negatives that are not perfect they come out good enough for me and you can look at my samples I provided.
Here is one again from odd film for reference.
Good luck and make it fun with TV, a coke and a snack. Unless you are going to make money at it life is too short to stress over absolute perfection on old not that well done photos.
I found a bit of experimenting at first let me see... (show quote)


My Dad was born in 1910 and my Mother in 1911. I have often thought what a wonderful time to have lived. Even thought there were a few cars traversing the dirt roads(?), most people were getting around by horse and buggy or steam powered trains. Yet they lived to see a man land on the moon. Dad even talked about reserving a flight to the edge of space. I can't help but wonder what he would be doing today with a laptop and smart phone and photos from Hubble and the new improved telescopes.
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Jan 16, 2024 16:25:04   #
burkphoto wrote:
Just for kicks, I pulled a few images from my past that I "camera scanned" from 35mm film. If you have questions about how I did them, the answers are in the white paper posted above. View downloads on a 4K monitor for best effect.

.


You are assuming I have a 4K monitor.
No, All I have is the 1080P monitor on my 17" laptop. Oh, I could hook it up to my 60" big screen, but that too is a 1080P. It would be nice to have all your equipment, I do not. And I have no real desire to acquire it. I'm not complaining because I do not nor complaining because you do, I'm just stating facts. Maybe I could come to your house and use yours. LOL No that's not going to happen either. I am not a pixel peeper. While I have no doubt that you have an excellent setup, I am sure that I will find a way suitable to my ways and means.

(I also have Borg implants from my cataract surgeries. My vision is not what it was in 2019. It does not help that the people making eyeglasses seem to think that everyone must wear blended glasses. I did quite fine wearing executive cut tri-focals. I really don't care what people think if they see lines in my lenses. At least I could see them. Ok. Rant over.)

I consider you to be a well educated ad trained professional photographer. And while you are well of my league, I still try to read and learn from your posts. Thanx for everything and what I can learn.
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Jan 16, 2024 15:54:15   #
Ednsb wrote:
boy am I going to be the outlier. I have a v600 and it is good for prints at 600 dpi but the resolution numbers it quotes for negatives and slides aren’t accurate. I believe the reason is they are interleaving but I am not sure but I do know talking to a professional scanning company I trust that is so. Also your negatives and slides should be at 4000 dpi minimally. I spent years scanning everything with the flatbed scanner using silver light. There were at least 2 things I learned - cull cull cull oh those are 3 things. I scanned everything and the flatbed scanners are not fast especially you using some of the advanced features like dust removal (don’t it makes your images soft). So I am in a current project where I am culling thousands of negatives and slides. When I am done I will either decide to have the scanning company do the scans or do it myself using a copy stand, mirrorless camera, macro lens and light source. So much faster, just make sure they are clean as possible. Good luck
boy am I going to be the outlier. I have a v600 an... (show quote)


These old photos from 2 and three generations back are all at exist. It's either deal with what you have or have nothing. On the other hand, the photos I have taken will have some that are not so good. My standard practice is to scan, look at them on the computer, then decide wether or not to keep.
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Jan 16, 2024 15:43:32   #
74images wrote:
Have you looked at the High Speed Negative Scanners, that are Listed at B&H & Amazon?

They Scan Negatives Real Fast, but the Downside, they don't do Slides.

74images


I will look into that when the time comes. Thanx.
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Jan 16, 2024 15:42:30   #
burkphoto wrote:
One of the challenges with scanners is focus. The scanner lens is normally focused on the top surface of the glass bed, for sharp images of prints. But if you put slides in mounts in a slide holder, or negatives in a film holder of some sort, that raises them above the glass. Some scanners compensate for this, and some don't. A few, like the Epson V850, have two lenses, one for larger media placed on the glass, and one for smaller media in holders.

If you put a piece of film directly onto the scanner glass bed, experiment with whether it should be emulsion UP, or emulsion DOWN, for the sharpest focus. Do the same with slides and negatives in film holders. You can always flip the image in software, if needed to make it "right-reading."

Unfortunately, placing a negative on scanner glass "base side down, emulsion up" may lead to the appearance of Newton's rings. There is little that can be done to minimize that, short of using a film holder.

There are a few "height adjustable" film holders available on Amazon and from other dealers. These enable you to adjust the height of the holder ever so slightly, in an effort to achieve better focus.
One of the challenges with scanners is focus. The ... (show quote)


OK. You just addressed a concern I have wondered about. The old odd sized negative that I scanned directly on the glass turned out sharp. But I have wondered what the thickness of the plastic holder (and the curl in slides and strips) would do to focus. Now to learn about "Newton's Rings".
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