birdpix wrote:
Two super shots, William! Would you care to give us some more information on your technique? It would be a great educational tool for our members. For example, why not use High Speed Synch? Where did you place the flash units? How close was the camera? Were you using a remote release? How did you determine your exposure for the ambient and the flash? Lots of questions!
Glad to help, if I can. I'm trying to teach myself good use of Speedlights, so I challenged myself to try and freeze the wings during broad daylight with a very high ambient light.
High Speed Sync would only work up to 1/8000th of a second on my D7100 and the overall light output reaching the sensor would be greatly reduced. That would result in either having to increase ISO (which would invite a higher chance of noise) or having to open the aperture further (resulting in a reduced depth of field).
According to the owners manual, a SB-600 at
1/16th power has a flash duration of 1/11,100th of a second (page 88). A SB-900 at
1/16th power has 1/10,000th of a second. At those power levels and a max sync speed of 1/250th, the flash is still considerably brighter than a HSS flash at 1/8000th, short enough in duration to freeze the wings, and allowing a stopped down aperture setting which would allow the percentage of flash to compete with the high levels of ambient light.
To give the flash even odds of competing, I needed to cut down the ambient light on the bird, but not necessarily on the background. To accomplish this, I set the bird feeder in the shade and used a tree, about 35' away, in bright sunlight as a background.
The SB-600 was on a light stand below and in front of where I expected to capture the bird (camera left, facing the bird to be) and approximately 28 inches away. The SB-900 was actually mounted on the camera, 90 degrees to the bird and was approximately 60 inches from the subject. Using a 105mm macro lens at that distance and an aperture of f/11 gave me a depth of field of approximately 3.5 inches, which should be enough to get the majority of the bird in focus.
The camera was fired with a wireless RF remote ... that way I could "hide" about 5' further away from the feeder. The birds are less intemidated that way.
This all sounds like I've sat down with a formula, slide rule, computer, etc. Not so. Alot of trial and error (mostly error). Like moving the speedlites base on what I saw on the LCD, taking into account the inverse square law. But that seems to be the way I learn best. Alot of experimentation.
I sincerely hope this helps.