I also had a problem with the lens mount on my D7100. In this case, I could not remove the lens on the camera. After several efforts, I got it off and then found that the locking pin was not functioning properly, so I sent it off for repairs. It was out of warranty, so I paid for the repairs at the authorized Nikon repair facility. Since I had an important event to shoot while the camera was in the shop, I bought a D7200, which I like very much and which is my go-to camera, though I keep the repaired D7100 as a backup. Like other respondents, I have taken lenses off Nikon cameras for years, including the D70, the D5100 and now my two D7xxx bodies and this was the first and only time it happened. I had never dropped the camera or hit the lens, so I can only conclude it was a faulty locking pin system that led to this problem, not camera abuse.

I concur with the idea of the Nikon 85mm. I have a Nikon D7200, and my go-to portrait lens is the Nikon 85mm 1.8G. This is one of if not the sharpest lenses I own, and it is excellent for portraits. It is relatively light and is an all around good performer.

MY wife is an artist, and I routinely photograph her work for entry into shows and for her web page. I use two 5500K studio lights bounced off the white ceiling as my lighting source. Never direct lights at the painting because acrylic paint has a light gloss that reflects as dullness in the painting (same is true for oils...she just works in acrylics). I shoot raw images with a Nikon d7200 and a Tokina 24-70 f2.8 lens and then adjust in Elements to match the photographic image with the painting. I am sure there are many ways to do this successfully, but after a lot of trial and error (flash, bounce flash, outdoors, lights from differing angles, etc. etc.) I have found this lighting approach gives me the most natural looking images. Hope this helps.

Probably not a concern. Thorium has been used in some camera lenses in the past, but it is really not that dangerous unless ingested. Thorium is an alpha particle emitter. Alpha particles are very large, and have very little penetrating power, so they are stopped by very little mass. The main concern is if they are ingested, where they are in close proximity to tissue and can do damage. Some video lenses cannot pass through the portal monitors of nuclear power plants because they have some radioactivity. They have to be manually scanned and released by health physics technicians.

I second the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 as a good wide angle lens for the camera. I also recommend you look at the Tokina 14-20 f2 lens. It is not as wide, but the image quality is outstanding. Check out reviews of the lens. It is really impressive.

I concur with the Tokina 14-20 f2. I own one and it is very sharp and very fast

I have owned the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 and it is a fine lens. I recently bought the Tokina 14-20 f2 lens, and while it is not as wide at its widest, it is about as sharp a lens as you will find. It is fast at f2 and unbelievably sharp. If you can forego the extra width of the 11-16, I would recommend this one. If you want wider, I concur with the 11-16

I do not own this specific lens, but one of my good friends owns this lens and absolutely loves it. She says it is very sharp and has good color rendition. I own three other Tokina lenses and they are all excellent quality, well built lenses with excellent optics.

I own and strongly recommend you consider the Tokina 24-70 2.8. It a very substantial lens with great image quality. Here is what DXOMark said about the lens.

"It was top of the class of 2.8 in a DXO Mark test DxOMark just tested the new Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 DI VC USD lens for Nikon. The test result is great, with a DxOMark Overall Score of 29 ranks best for image quality on professional standard zooms, just pushing the Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G into second with 28 points, and is well ahead of the Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 IF EX DG HSM with 23."

I love the color rendition of the lens. It is stays on my camera most of the time. It does not have vibration reduction, but at these focal lengths I do not think VR adds all that much value.

Of course, we all have our favorites, but I think you would find this to be an excellent choice.

FX lenses work fine on a DX body. I have a Nikon D7200. My main lens is the very sharp Tokina 24-70 2.8 and my other favorite is my Tokina 70-200 f4. Both of these are full frame lenses. I also have Nikon 300mm f4 and 105mm 2.8 macro that are full frame lenses. All of them work great on my DX camera.

Thanks for the feedback. I agree with Tokina quality. I have three Tokina lenses, including the very sharp well built 24-70 f2.8, and I am trying to decide between the 11-20 2.8 and the 14-20 2.0. One possible issue I have heard about on the 11-20 is back focusing, though there are many outstanding reviews of the lens and I was originally going to buy it before I saw the 14-20. I like the extra brightness, but will be giving up some width at the wide end. Decisions, decisions. This is why I was asking for more information.

Has anyone used this lens, and if so, what was your reaction to it?

My granddaughter wants a mirrorless camera but doesn't have a lot of cash, and she has asked for help in choosing one. Have any of the Hogs had experience with the Sony A5000 camera? It comes with lens for $348, while the upgraded A5100 with a similar lens is $200 more. Also, are there other mirrorless cameras in the $400 range that anyone would suggest? I use a dslr and know very little about mirrorless cameras so I really welcome advice on what she should consider.

I have a Spider camera holster, but my neck strap is too short for me to use the strap and the holster. I like the security of having my camera around my neck when I take it out of the holster to shoot, and I am not overly fond of hand straps...so, does anyone have a suggestion for a sturdy neck strap that is long enough to be used with the Spider camera holster?

Along with others, I have and enjoy using the Nikon 105mm 2.8 macro. It is an excellent lens. However, I have a friend who uses a Tokina 100mm 2.8 lens and gets great results. I have and use three other Tokina lenses, and if I did not already own the Nikon I would probably buy the Tokina, since it is a well made lens with good optics and it sells for about half the price of the Nikon version (Tokina $389 after rebate and Nikon $799 at B&H). Read reviews on the lenses and make your judgment, but I can say from experience that Tokina makes very solid lenses with excellent optics. And yes, you absolutely need a sturdy tripod.