This is all vary well and to some it is a delight I'm certain of that.

That said, I have been doing photography for 50 years and looking back I read about EV systems and then studied the EV system back about 35 years ago. Sitting at a desk in the evening after dinner I could understand how it worked and I did grasp what it had to offer.

At the same time I was getting deeper into some rather intellectual pursuits. I revisited an earlier idea that was deeply rooted in science, it was a type of intellectual view on all of the scientific method, in fact it is one of the oldest corner stones to influence the our modern scientific views. Vary old and it's name is Occam's Razor, named for a monk named William of Occam from many hundreds of years ago. Occam's razor can be taken in it's most simplified manner to inform us with a rather simply idea. When confronted by two similar ideas (explanations), the one that is less complex is the better (proffered) explanation.

So, I came to a realization throes many years ago, the rule of 16 was a much better tool for exposure that the EV system offered. This is my own personal evaluation. Perhaps it is because I'm dyslexic and find using math or things involving the use of math rather debilitating when my real purpose was to be creative in my work as a photographic artist. It may just be that I had livid in the practical world of the everyday and I was shown the face of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). Or perhaps it just comes from watching too much popular culture in film form, that devil Clint Eastwood's portrayal of Dirty Harry movies where like the San Francisco Version of an avenging flatermouse, he spoke truth to the world with "A man must know his limitations", minus the 357 Magnum canon he toted. I must have simplicity so as not to be distracted from my main effort and goal, to create important and meaning full creative views with a camera.

So, the Sunny 16 rule was good enough for the past greats like Ansel Adams, Ed Weston, Imogene Cunningham and Weegee, so it should be just as useful to a new generation of image makers.

Another thing, I've been doing images for a life time. I have taught photography in it's most basic manner and have been vary good at it. I use the old term, the sunny 16 rule. I never discuss nor bother with the new stupid 'exposure triangle', what triangle? The two parts are: f stops and shutter speed, that is all. Occam's Razor again or is you like Sgt. Rock, 'Nuff Said!'.

This is the correct answer. I had an FM 40 years ago. The "two light" reading indicates either +half or -half a stop. It's fine for use with color negative film and black-and-white film, but a bit annoying for slide production.

It was trying to emulate a meter needle from an older analog device. I never liked it. The FM was basically an updated Nikkormat, a cheaper line of cameras that still had an F mount. Once I got a Nikon FTn, I sold my Nikkormat FTn and moved on. The FM was a camera I was asked to use at work. It drove me nuts with its inaccurate viewfinder (only about 95% coverage, not enough for precision multi-image slide production) and that LED meter readout. I convinced my manager to let me order a Nikon F3, which was the best film camera I ever used. We got two — one with a pin-registration back on it to allow perfectly registered multiple exposures for titling, compositing multiple images, etc. I still have it as a conversation piece.

I resurrected my Nikon 35mm film camera to tinker a bit with film and have noticed that on the light meter to the right in the viewfinder sometimes the meter will center on the middle light (optimum) and at other times show an ideal light setting (center) but the high and low exposure light also comes on. Does this mean the light is either high or low but still usable? I have used the aperture and film speed settings to compensate but still find these multiple settings appearing. Any ideas about what to do?

I wish all cameras had slots for two memory cards. I took some local pictures yesterday and today. I put the card into the computer and clicked on DCIM. Zero! Nada! Nothing! This was a Lexus 64GB card I had used before. I was able to transfer other files to it. I'm wondering if maybe it wasn't inserted all the way. I've been shooting digital since about 2004, and this is the first time I've had a blank card.

Fortunately, my D750 has two card slots, so I didn't have to re-shoot. I'll try that card later, thinking it might not have been inserted fully, yet the little door did close.

Pictures to follow.

My cards for my Canon R5 are SD 128GB Extreme Pro (300 MB/S) and in the second slot SD CFExpress Extreme Pro 128GB (Read 1700 MB/S - Write 1200 MB/S)
I usually buy what speeds/sizes Canon recommends.
I also buy only DanDisk products because I have never had a failure using their products.
All of my "Off Brand Bargain" cards developed problems or failed altogether, shortly after purchase, and are now seeing service in my digital picture frames.

As far as "giant cards" go, maybe they are being used for movies, time exposure, and other uses I know very little about.
As far as "giant cards" go my 128GB cards are now rather modest in size.
Other UHH members will cringe at putting all of your eggs (pics/files) in a single memory card basket.
I haven't had a single failure using a SanDisk or any other "Name Brand" card.

One last thought, "knock-offs" are being sold that look just like the real thing.
Always buy from a reliable source, such as https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=sd%20cards&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps
or https://www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=sd%20memory%20card
Maybe they won't be as attractive price-wise, but they will perform and these stores will stand behind what they sell. Remember, if the price is too good to be true . . . .
Best Wishes,
JimmyT Sends

To note: If you don't want to have your subjects look like they are pasted to a black background, use a shutter speed of around 1/15th of a sec. This should give some detail to the background so it gives a more 3-D look to the shot. The flash will freeze any motion so you don't need a high shutter speed. If there is a considerable amount of ambient light you could go up to 1/25 of a sec. but it really doesn't matter, as I said before, the flash is what will freeze the action. How many people and how many rows do you estimate? If there will be three or more rows, I would suggest a two-step ladder. Look down from just above the group and slightly tilt the camera lens to mirror the slant of the rows. This will keep the most people in focus.