I bought my off camera flash equipment on Ebay. I use the Yongnuo triggers and the Yongnuo 410 flashes; the YN410s are fully manual so you must adjust them. I bought "cheap", lightweight, stands and umbrella holders. They all have held up well and are easy to transport. Start off with umbrellas and move on to larger boxes if you need them. Even though I have boxes and octoboxes, I still use my shoot through umbrellas for the majority of my shoot.

I shoot RAW almost exclusively. My RAW photos straight out of camera need post processing, no ifs, ands or buts. The RAW file may have more data than the JPEG, but the JPEG has already been processed in camera. If I do not add contrast, adjust the highlights and shadows, etc., then I have a flat, listless image. As an experiment for a friend I shot her in RAW + JPEG; I was able to extract much more detail (like texture in her hair) from the RAW file than was present in the out of camera JPEG.

Check out this site: https://www.file.net/process/adobegcclient.exe.html

It appears that GCClient is in all Adobe products, including Acrobat Reader. It can be deleted.

I have an older laptop which ran Elements that slowed down dramatically; I'm going to see if gcclient had anything to do with it.

Hmmm, if the fill flash doesn't work, I would experiment before the runners cross the line by photographing people around the finish line, shooting into the sun. I know I would blow out the highlights by exposing for the runner (whose face and body would be in the shadow). Since I don't know the exact situation, I don't know if you would have to deal with lens flare.

I was stationed in West Germany from 1972 to 75; I wish my color film would replicate a scene as well as my digital camera (with post processing)! Great photos.

I use PSE and like Scott Kelby's book Photoshop Elements 2020 for the Digital Photographer. I recommend going with an older version of the book because it's cheaper (and used) and Kelby doesn't really update each iteration of his PSE for Digital Photographer books. When I upgraded from PSE 9 to 14, I made the mistake of buying Kelby's edition for PSE14, it had the same information (almost exactly the same) as his PSE 9 book (which I already owned).

I originally shot JPEG SOC; I was dissatisfied with SOC and decide to do some post processing. Eventually I decided to shoot RAW and I shot RAW + JPEG. I did not work with my JPEGs in post processing so I started shooting exclusively in RAW.

There is an exception to my RAW exclusive shooting. There are times I'll shoot a model who does not post process so I will shoot in RAW + JPEG and give the model the JPEG files.

I am using PSE14 on my laptop that automatically upgraded from Win 7 to 10. It cannot upgrade to Win 11 (I'm not complaining).

As to your problem. I think I would use the select tool and select the bride (and groom?); I would then go into the Select menu and choose "Inverse". Everything other than the bride (and groom?) will be selected. I would then go into the Filter menu, choose Blur, and then choose Gausian Blur. I would blur out the background (with the people) just leaving the bride (and groom?) in focus.

Nikon has all ready announced that its D3000 line is ended (I think with the D3500). It's too bad because I take superior photos with my D3000 and D3200. When the time comes that I need a "new" camera, I will continue with the D3000 line and buy my "new" camera used.

Now I understand why everyone loves the Palouse

A few months ago I received spam from Nigeria that truly disturbed me. They not only had my name, but also my address and telephone number! It was all in the e-mail. It was unnerving, but I did not respond.

I normally will shoot in manual mode, but there are times (when shooting moving water and using an ND filter) I will shoot in aperture priority, setting the aperture at f/16 and letting the camera determine the shutter speed. Other times I will shoot in shutter priority when shutter speed is of utmost importance. And ~shudder~ I will even shoot in auto mode, especially when I'm walking around shooting landscapes. The key is walking around; I've lost good wildlife shots because I had a short period of time to set the camera setting to grab the shot. I've lost more shots than I gained doing that. So I'll set the camera to auto; when I see a landscape shot, I'll return to manual mode and set up the shot.

K1000 was once the most popular SLR in the United States; it was low cost (sold a K-mart at an extremely low price--otherwise I wouldn't have bought it!); extremely easy to use (through the lens light meter). I still have mine although I no longer use it.

There is no need for you to upgrade to the latest version of Elements unless they include some new thing you just have to have. I am still (happily) using PSE2014 because it still meets my photography needs. I, too, am primarily a landscape shooter.

I, too, cut my teeth on "analog" photography. I bulk loaded my own film; I processed my own b&w film and prints (usually 8x10s). I loved my darkroom work. I started out in digital by shooting JPEG SOOC. I changed to shooting RAW and then learning post processing, working my way up to Photoshop Elements. I enjoy post processing as much as I do taking the photographs, just as I totally enjoyed my darkroom work.