Posts: BullMoose | Ugly Hedgehog

brucewells wrote:

:thumbup:

Well done!! I'm impressed.

One thing I really liked was the option to lock out the "right click" of anyone trying to copy and paste (read that as steal) any images posted.

Feb 15, 2016 12:10:08 #

Gitchigumi wrote:

Well, dummy-me, I can't find either Behance or my.portfolio in Adobe CC. Where would I look to find them?

Type in "adobe.portfolio" into your search engine. That will take you to the Adobe site where you can sign in with your Adobe password and start to use the portfolio setup.

They have a few basic pre-made versions, but it was easy to modify them to suit your look.

Feb 15, 2016 10:55:53 #

jm76237 wrote:

I wasn't aware of this either. Is it what they call Creative Cloud Libraries?

I don't this so. I've been using the adobe portfolio site since they started the subscription service (it was called pro.site then), but they just changed over to a new service called my.portfolio within the last month or so. Both of them are part of the Behance program (and this is part of the subscription also).

I've been in the process of changing and modifying my portfolio site last week. It's not done yet, but if you want to take a look it's...

tomtackett.myportfolio.com

Feb 15, 2016 10:25:50 #

If you are using the photographer's package from Adobe (the $9.95 a month subscription), a portfolio site is included for no extra cost along with Photoshop and Lightroom.

I've set it up (very easy to do) and it works nicely. I think it's well worth looking into. It's called my.portfolio on the adobe package.

Feb 12, 2016 16:24:54 #

exposure compensation

tradio wrote:

This is a good argument for shooting in manual.

Why?

Feb 12, 2016 16:20:20 #

Epson old 4870 scanner

dpullum wrote:

Question has no details.... why not specify what y... (show quote)

What brought this kind of response on? This is one of the rudest set of comments I've read on here in a long time. The question from the OP was proper, and deserved a lot better than this.

Feb 12, 2016 08:53:40 #

16-35mm Lens GAS attack coming on

I've had the 16-35 L 2.8, and can honestly say it has been my favorite lens of all time. Great for those landscape vistas.

I've always thought that a reason for a 2.8 vs. a 4 (even if you don't use the 2.8) is to get farther away from the extreme end and into the sweet spot of the lens. Does that make sense?

Feb 12, 2016 08:47:19 #

Resize an Image

Apaflo wrote:

There is a huge bit of confusion here.

So which are you actually required to limit, the bytes or the pixels? You said MP, but are now indicating MB.

The OP said MP, but someone else confused the issue with MB.
I enter a lot of online competitions where you have to send images. They are usually limited by pixel size on the long edge (like 1,800 or so).

The size is easily changed in just about any post processing software or you can Google "change image size" and there are many ways to do this without post processing software.

Feb 9, 2016 16:00:22 #

(Photo Analysis)

Help with White Dog

rpavich wrote:

There most certainly is.

A proper exposure doesn't care what color the objects are, just that the same light is falling on both. That's why in camera reflective metering sucks much of the time and an incident meter is so awesome...it just measures light FALLING and not reflecting.

It's only underexposed because the camera saw a lot of light tones and tried to compensate.

Maybe my answer was written badly. How would you get both the white dog to be white and the background the proper exposure in camera?

Feb 9, 2016 15:26:04 #

(Photo Analysis)

Help with White Dog

As has been touched on in the above answers...

Camera meter on a white dog = grey.
Camera meter on a black cat = grey.

Need to overcompensate or undercompensate to get either white or black.

Really isn't a way to get the background and a white dog correctly exposed. This is where the post processing comes into play.

Feb 9, 2016 10:02:27 #

Ink jet printers

BullMoose wrote:

I'm using the Epson P10 and am happy with it, especially for black and white. It uses pigment inks and has photo black, matte black, and grey for black and white printing.

Sorry, I meant the Canon P10.
I just changed from Epson to the Canon.

I haven't had any problems with it at all. Very nice black and white using a proof screen in Photoshop and the ICC profiles of the paper.

Feb 9, 2016 09:41:35 #

Ink jet printers

Bike guy wrote:

Pigment inks, yes, I meant to say that. Thanks

I'm using the Epson P10 and am happy with it, especially for black and white. It uses pigment inks and has photo black, matte black, and grey for black and white printing.

Feb 5, 2016 08:41:35 #

Oil Paint Filter Returns (sort of, mine is grayed out)

Capn_Dave wrote:

Did you do it like suggested :roll:

I'm betting on this one also.

Feb 5, 2016 08:40:07 #

Eliminating duplicate photos in LR6?

Are you sure they are duplicate files, or are they just edits of the originals? Edits can show up as appearing to be duplicates. If you want all of the edits put together with the original, they can be "stacked" or then "unstacked".

I don't have LR here, but I believe this is done in the edit tab.

Feb 4, 2016 14:45:58 #

Panoramic aspect ratio giving me fits - help please!

jhud202 wrote:

When you are in LR, activate the crop module and go into the aspect ration section and choose custom. In that module, enter the size you want the finished product (L & W-says aspect ratio, but don't worry about that) and hit the enter key. That will bring a crop box for those dimensions onto the photograph and you can size it via the handles to wherever the crop fits your vision. The finished, exported photo will be the size you need regardless of the "aspect ratio".

The whole question was not how to crop (the OP knows how to do that), it was how to make a stitched pano fit into a predetermined size (aspect ratio in his words).

From what he has to work with, he just simply can not do what he wants without cropping off portions of his image.