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Apr 22, 2019 22:29:46   #
Movie Maker 2012, the latest version runs fine on my Windows 10 PC. It just cannot burn the DVD. Like the original poster said, I too miss Microsoft's DVD Maker.
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Apr 22, 2019 14:05:24   #
Are you wanting to burn a DVD? I do not believe Movie Maker did that. To burn a DVD, you will need something like Adobe's Premiere Elements 2019. There are probably free or low cost programs that will burn a DVD, but none come to mind.

FWIW
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Apr 14, 2019 12:18:31   #
This has probably already been suggested above, but assuming he still has the serial number and CDs, you may want to uninstall PSE 7 and then reinstall it. I am assuming that everything else is working fine on his computer.

Back to your original question, I can appreciate his concern about not wanting to start on a new learning curve. I have had several clients with the same concerns. If you have to end up upgrading PSE, I would try to find a copy of PSE 10. PSE 11 introduced the new look and feel, which would require a fair amount of getting use to on his part. There is no doubt that ultimately the new look and features would probably provide a better experience all the way around, but it would take some time and effort on his part.

The final thought I have is if he upgraded to PSE 10, he would have three years of improvements in the new version. If your friend uses the Organizer, newer versions would automatically upgrade the Catalog to run on the new version.

I am assuming that someone can suggest where to buy a valid copy of older versions of PSE.

Good luck,

FWIW
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Apr 4, 2019 19:08:30   #
Remington, are you sure you have the latest version of ACR. My PSE 2019 ACR shows that it is version 11.1.
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Apr 4, 2019 11:49:56   #
I have been using Photoshop Elements since Version 1. As users know, Facial Recognition has been added an improved in recent versions. It takes a lot of resources. On my system, I learned early on that it bogged my system down. I do not need the feature, since I can easily recognize the few people I want to tag. So, I turned it off in Edit > Preferences within the Organizer. Adobe has improved FR's performance each year it seems. Also, it takes its biggest hit while it does its initial indexing of the photo database.

My point, is if you find the PSE's performance to be sluggish etc, try turning off Facial Recognition to see if that is your problem. Since it runs in the background, your PC may be affected by it even if you do not use the Organizer.

FWIW
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Mar 27, 2019 18:51:27   #
mcmama,

In PSE, if you are dealing with a RAW image and use the Organizer, you can do any of the edits allowable in the ACR, and then click Done, which takes you back to the Organizer. Your edited photo is visible in the Organizer. The edits are stored in the small .xmp sidecar, and take up much less room than an edited photo.

Also it is totally non-destructive. If you open the file again in the ACR, you can Reset the original defaults,or re-edit the photo with new settings.

If you edit the photo in the Photo Editor, and do some changes, you will have to save the photo in the traditional way.

The key here, if you can get by with making all of your changes in the ACR, you can always get back to the original, while saving a ton of disk space.

This is nowhere as powerful as using Virtual Copies in Lightroom, but is a handy workflow if you are a PSE user.
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Mar 3, 2019 13:37:31   #
The same math applies, but because the 6x6 negative/slide is larger, you can use a lower scanning resolution. Assuming that you want to send your printer a file that has a resolution of 300 pixels/inch (the normal recommended resolution, you could print a 20"x20" image if you scan the slide at 1000 DPI.

Here is the math:

6 in x 1000 pix/in x in/300 pix = 20 inches the size of the final print on each side.
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Mar 3, 2019 12:03:03   #
If you ever intend to make prints of any reasonable size from your scanned slide, you need to set the V600 or any scanner to an order of magnitude greater than the 300 dpi setting discussed so for here.

If scanning 35mm (also known as 135) slides or negatives, the optimum scanning resolution appears to be 3200 (this may vary from 3000 to 3600 depending on software). You can scan at a higher DPI if desired, but you will likely find that you are not capturing more detail, just making more pixels.

The above is from a quick Google search.

Assuming you want to send your printer a file that is 300 ppi, the recommended DPI setting will produce enough pixels to print a high quality 8x10 without interpolating pixels.

But maybe I am missing something here. And yes it is going to be time consuming.

FWIW
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Feb 14, 2019 20:46:38   #
Bridges wrote:
Thanks all for the great response! Looks like the Mavic 2 Pro is the way to go. I plan to purchase one of these within the next six months.


If you wait six months, you may be buying a Mavic 3 Pro (or whatever the next-gen model is called), which is ok. It will be even better. :-)

This technology is ever changing.
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Feb 14, 2019 11:39:55   #
DJI and a Mavic 2 Pro would be what I would get if I were upgrading my Mavic Pro. I believe DJI has about 70% of the market. Finally, be prepared for lots of regulations and a learning curve in many areas. The drones recommended here are complex systems and you need a fair amount of knowledge to use them effectively.

But boy are they fun!
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Feb 8, 2019 11:39:32   #
Very good summary.
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Feb 7, 2019 11:35:46   #
rond-photography wrote:
PSE
If you are doing small numbers of photos, PSE might work well for you and gives you a lot of power (used it for years). If you are shooting raw, you will get to know Adobe Camera Raw - and you will be using exactly the same processing tool as in Lightroom.

Lightroom (LR)
If you shoot large volumes (think a sporting event, a car show, air show, birding, animals in action, etc.), where you will have to find a good shot among many not quite as good, I think LR is much better. That is its forte - a quick view of each photo; mark it as discard if not up to snuff; discard those you marked; develop the ones you like. Develop is where it shines. The process is much faster than opening in PS. You simply go to that photo and start developing (dodge, burn, set exposure, contrast, etc.) and move on.
So in the end, you can do everything you need to do with either, but if you are in a hurry and do a lot of big shoots
PSE br If you are doing small numbers of photos, P... (show quote)


I don't agree with these two points. My largest PSE Catalog has something like 50K photos and videos and runs fast. Using the Organizer's keyword tags, and other tools, I can locate a given image generally within one or two minutes.

Make no mistake, Lightroom is a more powerful program. However, getting to the point where you can do almost anything in the Organizer than you can in Lightroom is generally much easier for new users. And besides when you are ready (if ever) to move up to Lightroom, there is a Lightroom command to convert your PSE Organizer Catalog to Lightroom.

FWIW
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Feb 7, 2019 11:23:17   #
G Brown wrote:
PSE primarily is a post processing program consisting of a cut down version of Photoshop (Adequate for a lot of people) This comes with 'Organizer' which is a simple file catalogue using star and tick ratings.
Lightroom is an image file data base with many search options, that does a little Post Processing and it relies upon PS or PSE as a plug-in.(that was as my bought version worked a couple of versions ago)


Actually, both Lightroom and the Organizer are based on database technology and not simply file managers.
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Dec 28, 2018 17:21:08   #
gvarner wrote:
When I started this thread I had just done a little experimenting with a print from my cheap printer and uncalibrated monitor. When I bumped the brightness up by a factor of 33, the face tones came out more natural in the print. Given that prints will be a bit darker than what’s on the screen I’m just looking for a poor man's version of getting a more natural looking print. A factor of 50 was a bit too much. So I was wondering if the 33 might be like equivalent to 1/3 F stop. Seems like it is.


Just to be clear, I am referring to the Exposure scale in the Adobe Camera Raw dialog (ACR) as implemented in PSE. Based on your post, it appears that we are not talking about the same thing. The Exposure scale in ACR is -5.0 to +5.0. These are in F/Stops - at least approximately.
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Dec 28, 2018 10:23:54   #
via the lens wrote:
I am of the belief that the Exposure slider in LR is one stop to one stop, although you can move it in increments of one-third stop.


This is also my understanding based on what I read sometime ago. However, I like the test for yourself idea as well. Also, you should check out the links another commenter recommended. I did not before posting this, so they might conflict with my comment. :-)

FWIW
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