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Oct 22, 2022 13:33:15   #
billnikon wrote:
U can compare till the cows come home. Fact, many of today's zooms are just as sharp as most primes. Case closed.


You are wrong, case closed

And the only reason I speak strongly is because you are sharing your opinion so strongly and I will repeat my original answer, yes and no, it depends.
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Oct 22, 2022 13:18:38   #
rehess wrote:
I always put the subject of my photography near the center; the edges provide context, so the flexibility provided by a zoom lens will always be more important to me than the edge sharpness provided by a prime lens.


And in the answer yes and no has to do with what you shoot.

To a landscape photographer, most are very concerned about corner sharpness.
For a portrait photographer, they are interested in center sharpness. Corners don't matter.

If you want big bokeh for the portrait and sharp corners for landscape, get an RF 85 1.2 :) So price, not always, but often makes a big difference.
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Oct 22, 2022 13:06:45   #
billnikon wrote:
Like I said, just as sharp as any prime in that zoom range in the hands or an experienced photographer.


We will have to disagree on this one and why I said yes and no. No to your statement. Comparing these 2 lenses.

Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM Lens
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens

Both sharpest at F8
Both lenses at 50mm at F8, top image is the zoom, bottom image is the prime.
The zoom is not sharp in the corners and I would never own this modern zoom and there is nothing you can do no matter how good a photographer you are. It is a limitation of the lens at any fstop

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=295&Camera=979&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=3&LensComp=941&CameraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=6


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Oct 22, 2022 12:04:30   #
47greyfox wrote:
You’re spot on! I kick myself every time I upgrade in September for an upgrade in October. 2017 wad the first year in my ON1 saga. I think I tried Luminar (?) and was more than just a little annoyed, as it was buggy as h**l IMO. Then came ON1 PR’s mid year update in 2018 where they significantly increased the GPU related minimum requirements for the mid year 2018.5 upgrade. That’s when I bought the NVIDIA 1050ti board. Since then, things have been relatively stable. Until this upgrade…. Reading the ON1 forums, there seems to be a lot of issues out there. Most may be computer performance related, but those like your masking issue are “not ready for prime time” software problems. I personally think ON1 does a horrible job beta testing their software. Not everyone has the latest and greatest hardware. Nor is ON1 the only thing they are running. REMIND me next year to not spend my money until I’ve run the yearly upgrade, even if I’ve purchased a new computer!
BTW, did you participate in the Meetup spider shoot?
You’re spot on! I kick myself every time I upgrade... (show quote)


A lot of software companies push the stuff out and make customers be the beta testers.

If you notice On1, Neo, and Photoshop all had the AI masking features in the latest update. I think Neo did a better job, but On1 is doing it in raw, I don't think anyone is doing that. (maybe lightroom but I don't use that software so I am not sure.)

I am noticing some issues with Topaz AI masking as well. It may be an nvidia driver issue. I have seen some resolutions are to revert to an earlier driver. :(

I am not very good at macro yet :(


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Oct 22, 2022 10:07:31   #
Canisdirus wrote:
Thank you Capt. Obvious.


Has Captain Obvious been running around UHH again lately?

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Oct 22, 2022 10:04:43   #
billnikon wrote:
Many of today's zoom's are just as sharp as primes in the hands of experienced photographers. My latest Nikon 70-200 2.8 FL is just as sharp as any prime in that zoom range.


Yes and No. What does sharp mean? In the center only, mid frame or corners?
What is a modern zoom lens? Does this include the cheapest modern zoom lens?
And then, are you a pixel peeping photograph, or normal joe non photographer looking at the image results?

These things matter and the results are often in the eye of the beholder :)
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Oct 22, 2022 09:54:39   #
47greyfox wrote:
Yeah, I saw that as well. I’m pretty sure that “vulcan” is not an issue for me. I’m at the point now where I’m waiting it out. I’ve got a couple more things I can try that are work around, not solutions. One is replace the computer, something I’m not going to do just so I can run a $100 program. If the promised ON1 fix doesn’t address my problem, I’ll have to assume that in the grand scheme of things, my issue is unique enough that it doesn’t merit ON1’s attention. In which case, turnabout will be fair game.
Yeah, I saw that as well. I’m pretty sure that “vu... (show quote)


That is why I always recommend trying the trail first even when you are going to upgrade. If it doesn't work, don't buy it. But hindsite is 20/20.

I found a bug and submitted it to On1, it is about the AI mask, it doesn't work right. I have another laptop and desktop to check it out on but the laptop I have now uses a Nvida 2070 which is a standard up to date card. So I will see how soon they get back on this on. I don't think the mask Ai stuff is ready for primetime. I usually don't buy software until it has been out there for a few months but I was really excited about the mask AI stuff and of course it does not work :) I will have to wait till they fix it.

I went to use Luminar Neo mask AI stuff but it does not work in Raw, so I am a bit disappointed there to but I don't think that is going to change in Neo, but I can still use it but the results are better in raw.
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Oct 22, 2022 09:32:39   #
niteman3d wrote:
Thanks for the names and codes... I may yet use them. This post was from five months ago and I bought the ACDSee Ultimate package at about that time. So far, not much luck as I just don't seem to be "getting it" from the two guys who have the tutorials online and I'm unable to find much else in the way of help, so it's liable to end up on my pile of unused software. I spent about an hour trying to figure out a one click save with no luck. I'm easily discouraged and that did it for me. I guess I need to try again, but I think I'll try Luminar as well.
Thanks for the names and codes... I may yet use th... (show quote)


Sorry, someone dug up and old post and I responded to it.

I would definitely try the trails first and see if they are easy or hard to learn. Since the trials are limited time, make sure you are ready to spend some time with the editor editing photos.

One thing, neither Neo or on1 have one click save. I guess it depends on what you mean as save.

So if you edit your image in Neo and don't want to save it as a jpg just save the edits, you just close the program, all your edits are saved.

With on1 you click done and your edits are saved and you can close the program.

If you are trying to save a your images as a jpg. Neo pops you to a screen for what type, tiff, or jpg ect and where you want to store it.

On1 pops you over to presets, this way you can create a preset that say I want a jpg at 50 percent compression save in a folder in the same location as the original and the folder is named finished images.
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Oct 22, 2022 09:19:27   #
DirtFarmer wrote:
These days, postprocessing can increase background blur to your needs. I had a 50/1.4 which I played with a bit. It was always an error and retrial process to get the background blur the way I wanted it. Eventually I learned how to do it in post and now I use a moderate aperture which gives a large DOF. If I want to blur the background I can do it. Bokeh is indeed another matter and can be lens dependent. But it's not generally one of my things so I don't usually pursue it.


Sure if you are good a photoshop you can do it. Luminar neo uses depth maps and does a pretty convincing job but the masking gets it wrong often, then you have to go and adjust the mask.

And while this is fine for one shot. If you are taking multiple shots and have to edit every image this way, it is much easier to have a lens that does this, but those lenses are expensive and specialized (no zoom) an you have have to decide if it is worth it to get that lens over editing each picture to have a narrow dof in photo editing.
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Oct 22, 2022 08:58:57   #
Thomas lee wrote:
Can you really tell the difference in a photo if -using a prime 5omm vs
A 28 to 70 zoom . Set at 50mm
??


Yes you absolutely can. Any one even a non photographer can see it. Or at least I can see the difference.
I sold my two 50mm lenses so I cannot show you the different but from a depth of field simulater you can this applies to any lens The first 2 images are portrait shot wide open, images 3 and 4 are full body shots and are a little more difficult to see the difference but I can see it, draw your own conclusion.

dofsimulator.net

Below I also show you the sharpness difference between the Canon 50 1.4 and the Canon 24-70 2.8 II. Both wide open You can see the difference between those to pretty easily , you can also see the chromatic aberration (red color fringing) in the 50. The sigma I am going to buy the 50 1.4 Art wide open, you probably can't see the difference between it wide open and the Canon 24-70 2.8 ii wide open at 50.

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=115&Camera=979&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=787&CameraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=0

You can go to the two different sites dofsimulator.net and the-digital-picture.com

Now someone might say, you have to put all the lenses at 2.8, then sure, you will not see any difference but you don't buy primes with an F 1.4 or faster so you can shoot them at 2.8










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Oct 21, 2022 22:39:06   #
47greyfox wrote:
I don't get that far. With a RW2 RAW file in the browse window, I select "Edit" and the file starts to load.... when the status bar (lower right of image) gets about 60%-70%, the program crashes.
GPU has latest driver, verified. "Vulkan-1.dll'" seems to be installed When I search for it, here's what I get....
Should I see it anywhere else?


So, I was looking through the knowledge base for an issue I was having (with masking) I found this..


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Oct 21, 2022 19:47:20   #
spaceytracey wrote:
I have almost 2T space remaining on both.


You seem to have more than enough. Don't forget to create a recovery disk if you have a dvd drive or a usb recovery thumb drive.
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Oct 21, 2022 18:26:10   #
spaceytracey wrote:
Yup, PC. I have everything on an external hard drive. I would assume that would be sufficient. No? Sorry to be a dummy but, I'm a computer dummy. Lol.


Look at the size of your internal drive on your computer according to file explorer, This PC. C drive. How much space is it using, then look at how big your external drive is and how much space it has left.
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Oct 21, 2022 17:21:36   #
spaceytracey wrote:
When downloading, I got an alert that this program might harm my computer! Backing up my computer is only in case I prefer the earlier version, right?


You can use virustotal.com to scan for viruses before you download anything. Or if you already downloaded the file, sent that file to virustotal.com and scan in first before you open it.

I would back up my pc by imaging the disk with macrium reflect on a PC. With mac, use whatever software they use to image your computer.

Are you running mac or PC? The warning you mentioned sounds more like a PC.
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Oct 21, 2022 17:02:55   #
niteman3d wrote:
I've read some of the older threads about Luminar and was wondering if there are any improvements in support and whether to get AI or Neo?

My old reliable cheap and easy software took a dump on the last upgrade, then my power supply failed and I'm working from my 12" laptop which is actually not as bad as it sounds since I'm able to connect to my big monitor via an HDMI to Display-port adapter.

So... since I can't really 'do' anything until I figure out whether I'm buying a new desktop or will mine be repairable, I thought I'd get some input on editing software before I get my desktop back. To me, this looks like a good simple but powerful package. (I think Luminar is based in Ukraine, so I guess that's another question?)
I've read some of the older threads about Luminar ... (show quote)


I have 4 AI and Neo. I would get Neo.
But it depends on what you are editing. Jpg or raw?
If raw, I think on1 is a better tool for raw and it handles layers better in a more logical manner.
There are things I like about both. Again depends on what you do. The portrait module is better in Neo IMHO. Handing of layers and external plugins, On1 is better. Neo has some great effects that are easier to use. If you get the extra modules Neo will cost you more, most of those modules are included in On1 for free
Both have trials. Try them both before you buy. Youtube Anthony Turnham for Neo or Jim Nix for both Neo and On1 videos for results and instructions.Good luck I use Neo as a plug in for On1 because then you get the best of both worlds with little issues jumping between the two.

If you get neo, use promo code ATNEO or JIMNIXNEO I think you get 20 percent off. Neo is more expensive than On1

If you decide On1 use JIMNIX20 you get 20 percent off $79
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