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Posts for: bajadreamer
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Jun 12, 2022 08:51:21   #
mvetrano2 wrote:
Both images are superb and clearly in focus, but I think I like the blurry background produced by your wife's lens a lot better than the nondescript background produced from your 600mm.


Thank you. I guess a matter of taste. Many of my images are the proverbial "bird on a stick" which I personally like. In those images I like to draw the eye to the bird as much as possible. A less bright, buttery background tends to do that for me.
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Jun 12, 2022 08:49:17   #
Manglesphoto wrote:
Fantastic images!!!


Thank you.
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Jun 12, 2022 08:48:55   #
rmalarz wrote:
Both photographs are nice but suffer from hue contamination.
--Bob


Ah, that will the be the subject of another topic in the future. Do you adjust WB or hue to "make the picture look right" or do you allow the WB to reflect your memory of the time and place where the image was taken? Both of these pictures were taken shortly after sunrise with very yellow-red light. Also the surrounding grass/vegetation was yellow-white. It also appears to me (my eyes and my monitor) that my Canon cameras have a slight bias to the red side.
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Jun 12, 2022 08:45:02   #
rlv567 wrote:
I compared the two downloaded pictures two ways - zoomed, but at the same image size, and zoomed to the same percentage. The kite is significantly sharper both ways in all three viewers I used. Were I to choose just on that basis, I would choose that lens. The size, weight and probably cost comparisons make the choice easy, though I probably would not use the extender. The only question I might pose is - you're comparing lenses, but not on the same camera; I don't know how much difference that will make!

Loren - in Beautiful Baguio City
I compared the two downloaded pictures two ways - ... (show quote)


Thank you. I worded this topic poorly. My goal was not a direct comparison of lenses or cameras, but merely to note that the quality of image produced by the prime lens justified its inclusion in my travel kit. The lens is a pain in the butt to travel with, whether it be on a plane, the backseat of a car or on my shoulder, but I feel the gain is worth the pain.
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Jun 12, 2022 08:42:18   #
dennis2146 wrote:
At first I was somewhat wondering what you were really asking. Now that you have cleared it up for me I can only suggest taking the 600mm f4 IF sharpness is your main or at least important criteria.

Sharpness is also a criteria of mine. I value it above most other values in a photo especially with birds.

Dennis


I agree.
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Jun 11, 2022 18:56:37   #
[quote=robertjerl]

OK, I am in grumpy old retired teacher mode.

Points well taken.
A couple of things. First, my wife was taking pictures of Great Bustards some distance off; hence the 1.4 extender. This Red Kite flew up quickly and unexpectedly, so no time to do anything but zoom out and shoot.
Second, I may have worded this topic poorly; my purpose was not an apples to apples comparison, but rather to show that if IQ is the sole criteria for selecting one image over another, then the primes win. Because often I am taking photographs in places that I will never visit again, I want the best picture I can get (I know that IQ is not everything). That is my justification for lugging a large, heavy lens (and tripod) around.
I love the 100-500; it provides good images and great versatility. I too have the R7 on order. Hopefully that will work well with the 100-500, but no matter-it will never replace the image quality of the prime 600 on the same camera.
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Jun 11, 2022 15:46:52   #
One of ongoing decisions that I deal with when I travel is "What lens do I take with me?". I read about that same decision here on this forum frequently. Granted, the type of photography I enjoy and indulge in is much different than many people on UHH; I almost exclusively photograph birds with my cameras. Landscapes, etc, are all taken with my iPhone. These are two shots taken from virtually the same vantage point in very similar, if not identical lighting, conditions. One, the Red Kite, was taken by wife with an R6, 100-500 mm zoom with a 1.4 extender, at 420 mm. It was shot at 1/2000 sec, f/11.0 (almost wide open), ISO 4000, EC of -.3. The second, a Raven, was shot on the same perch, from virtually the same angle, by me, using an R5, 600 mm f/4.0 II lens. It was shot at 1/2000 sec, f/4.0 (wide open), ISO 500, EC of -.3 (should have been 0 or even +.3).
Range was approximately 25 feet.
I do understand the increase of DOF simply by the difference in f/stop, but the point is that the very heavy (difficult to travel with) 600 mm lens is capable of shooting at f/4.0 and the lighter (much easier to travel with), 100-500 mm + 1.4 extender is only capable of shooting at f/10.0 when zoomed out.
Are both shots acceptable? They certainly are to me, but if I want a "wall hanger" picture, there is no doubt in my mind which lens I will pick up.
Does the 100-500 have other advantages beside size, weight and cost? Certainly, but if only IQ is my criteria, there is no question about it. I still lug this giant lens wherever I go to photograph birds.


(Download)


(Download)
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Jun 8, 2022 12:49:40   #
User ID wrote:
Very skilled PP.

Personally I find that the birds intense "facial expression" is waaaaay more expressive than displaying its full wing span. Must a human (non headshot) portrait include the tips of the toes ?


Thank you. That is a different approach. The reason I selected this shot, out of 28, is the head and eye so that crop certainly brings the focus on that.
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Jun 8, 2022 12:47:54   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
The bird on the ground is part of the story! Isn't that red element a "kill" ? Isn't that why the raven/crow is approaching and the bird on the post is defending?

I can't fathom why the bird on the ground should go to the cropping bin...oh wait, it's not my photo


I agree with you. The problem for me with the bird on the ground is that it appears almost as an afterthought-attention is drawn to the birds on the R and center. Yes, that is a dead rabbit that is the center of attention for the 3 birds, but unfortunately it is not in the center. I have hedged my bet-I saved both views. I will mull on them as time goes by and ultimately decide which one I want.
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Jun 8, 2022 09:04:23   #
b top gun wrote:
What I like about a Nikon D850....it has aspect ratio options in camera. If I want a 16 x 9 preview, I switch the D850 into video mode and it captures images directly into the 16 x 9 aspect ratio which I prefer for a more panoramic view. Some shots just look better with certain aspect ratios. For landscapes and seascapes, I try to get the horizon line either about 1/3 from the image top or about 1/3 from the image bottom; the choice is determined but which element of the image I want to emphasize...the foreground or the expanse of the sky.
What I like about a Nikon D850....it has aspect ra... (show quote)


I can certainly see where that might be useful at times. I have never shot with this camera, so I don't know, but it would seem to me that in most of my scenarios that would be difficult to impossible as the shots change instantly. This bird covered 50 yards in 3 seconds. Would be pretty tough to make any comparisons of aspect ratios in the camera.
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Jun 8, 2022 09:01:42   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Personally, I think there's a bit too much sky. I like a more rectangle crop, with the horizon around the upper 1/3 horizontal line through the image, whatever standard ratio best fits.


As I look back on the image, I agree with you. I will work on that.
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Jun 7, 2022 22:20:51   #
Alphabravo2020 wrote:
Here it is with the third point on the raptor's eye. But maybe something is lost in such a tight framing. That bird on the ground has to go but the distant expanse is very dramatic :D


Thank you for your thoughts. Here is another take on that. I expanded canvas on R; a little repetitive but could be improved with a little more time and effort. Bird on the ground gone. A little more background kept intact which I agree with you that it adds to the effect.


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Jun 7, 2022 18:07:03   #
User ID wrote:
If there were no distractions that needed to be cropped out, I would never have cropped the frame to match the subject. A subject needs an environment. If you seek to emphasise that a subject forms a narrow horizontal shape, try putting it somewhere within a square-ish field thaz barely wide enough for the subject but with plenty of room above and below.


I am attaching a second shot. This was taken a few seconds after the first. I had a chance to zoom back in and capture virtually a full frame shot. This shot has a slight crop from the L and bottom. It is a traditional 5:4.


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Jun 7, 2022 18:04:05   #
Alphabravo2020 wrote:
I crop and rotate and pan until a gland in my brain fires. This can lead to some unfortunate cropping in IG so I had to learn how to add mats.


Why I save layered TIFF files in PS as my masters. What looked good to me initially I sometimes look at later and think WTF was I thinking. Cropping and saturation are my two bugaboos.
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Jun 7, 2022 17:53:01   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
In my work, conforming to specific aspect ratios can be important and in many cases, however, in other situations, I am not al all concerted with a pre-determined ratio.

Obviously, in many commercial layouts, images that will appear on television screens or transilluminated display cases and menus, billboards, feature stories or advertisements in magazines, etc, there may be a specified space that must be observed and all compositional elements for the get-go have to be planned accordingly. In the old days o retail portraiture, we shot for frames and albums of standard sizes. Seem the 4:3 ratio rules and the camera maker began to market "ideal format" cameras (6x7 and 6x4.6 cm) to address the 8x10 prints and larger formats of similar proportions.

I have done a lot of research and study as to where these "ideal" ratios came from- the old master's paintings, the theories of ancient mathematicians, the composition "rules thirds, and things lie in the "golden ratio"- all good to know in the back of your mind but really- enough to drive one crazy while shooting! Besides, there are so many other interesting formats, including panoramic, and even circular or oval compositions. Ain't nothing wrong with squares instead of rectangles.

So, back in the day when I was shooting tons of weddings on film, I went rogue! I broke tradition and went to a square format and went expensive as well-Hasselblad. Not for prestige either, It's just that his glass was super sharp, the film plane in the magazines was super flat and with a decent moderately speed colour negative material, a bit of cropping did not harm to the IQ- I made fine 24x30 and 3x40 prints from sections of 2 1/4 negatives. I made custom-bound multi-size albums and offered custom frames and matting of odd sizes.

I apply the same theory in my digital commercial photography and portraiture today. Of course, it's good to fill the frame as much as possible and still maintain good composition but there are so many alternatives that can be more interesting, such as negative space, the sorts of traditional and odd aspect ratios in the finished product.

After all, why invest in high-quality lenses and the latest cameras with high pixel counts if you can't leave a bit of space in certain compositions and crop accordingly as per your planned final composition or aspect ratio.

There are times when shooting action where you may not be able to fill a frame or precisely decide long a specific compositor or aspect ratio in a split second. You shoot and crop- you don't scrap the shot if you cant get in closer.

Here's a link to a nice article on aspect ratios and various compositional concepts.
https://phlearn.com/magazine/how-to-know-which-aspect-ratio-to-use-in-your-photography/
In my work, conforming to specific aspect ratios c... (show quote)


Thank you for the link. With the advent of the newer "eye tracking" cameras, pre shot composition is easier but still a challenge for me.
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