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May 15, 2018 10:34:10   #
danatek wrote:
I wouldn't be caught dead with anything less than a Nikon D3000 series DSLR; D5000 series, if you can manage it. Lighter than any 1970's rangefinder camera.

Canon SL-1/2 and Pentax K-S1 are also quite light.
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May 14, 2018 06:13:25   #
JD750 wrote:
Ha ha very true. Always difficult the future, to predict.

My guess is the 50% decrease will happen way before 2021.

2021 is only three years away. I would think that existing Canikon lenses in use would keep them on top longer than that .... people don't like to throw that kind of value away, and if there were any truth in the Fujifilm prediction, there would be little "secondary" {used} market in them.
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May 14, 2018 01:03:28   #
FUD??
https://www.fujirumors.com/internal-fujifilm-document-predicts-50-market-share-decrease-for-canon-and-nikon-within-2021-and-about-canikons-ff-mirrorless/
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May 12, 2018 16:24:26   #
Kiriakos wrote:
I disagree with most if not all the answers given to the above post. Case of point, I have a Lumix ZS15 with a small 2/3 sensor. I decided to upgrade to a larger APS-C sensor for obvious better results. Got the very well accepted and much heralded Sony a6000. Placed both of them side by side and used the fully automatic mode for comparison reasons. Believe it or not the pics of Sony were not better than Lumix. So prcb1949 is not wrong being disappointed. You compare two cameras using the same auto mode and surely you perform a simple and rude comparison. For the purpose, Sony with the bigger and better sensor according to reviews should blow the Lumix out. It did not.
Now you can manipulate the settings and get better images sure, but this is different game from what prcb1949 is saying. You almost suggested to him to go in the University and study nuclear science, in order to make a simple test. That's where I disagree with you. If you knew the answer, you just should answer his reasonable question straight to the point and not suggesting obvious but later in the course advanced procedures.
I disagree with most if not all the answers given ... (show quote)

Of course, in good light there is no inherent reason for sensor size to matter.
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May 12, 2018 10:48:22   #
LFingar wrote:
It will also allow you to take pictures with the lens cap on without knowing it! I have some great shots of 1970 Hawaii that I tell everyone were taken at night!

For each of my rangefinder cameras, the lens cover covered the lightmeter also, which really helped me remember to remove it.
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May 12, 2018 10:45:17   #
AntonioReyna wrote:
Sorry, I meant auto ISO as I want to have more control. Thank you for pointing out the omission.

Depends on what I want to control. If I want to control motion, I use 'Tv' mode. If I want to control DOF, I use 'Av' mode. If I want to control both motion and DOF, some form of auto ISO is all I have left, but I've decided on a maximum level acceptable on each camera, so I'm retaining some kind of control.
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May 12, 2018 10:33:10   #
Jules Karney wrote:
For sports I always use auto iso. The clouds and shadows are always moving around so it helps me obtain the proper exposure in the heat of the battle. Other kinds of photographing I shoot manual everything.

I shoot some kind of auto all the time. The camera thinks a lot faster than I do.
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May 12, 2018 10:28:51   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Switching mode is easy. Turning auto ISO on and off is more difficult.

That's where Pentax's method "shines". 'TAv' is just another mode. In fact, according to the manual, selecting 'M' mode + auto ISO just puts the camera in 'TAv' mode.
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May 12, 2018 10:18:22   #
ole sarg wrote:
Nevertheless if you are not a tele shooter and I am not, I prefer to use a rangefinder type camera, namely: the sony a6000. I find teles flatten a face, compress foliage, are too heavy, etc....

If you need a tele you just aren't close enough! Of course that rule doesn't apply to photographing grizzles and lions!

I happen to enjoy photographing local birds and squirrels, none of which allow me to get close enough for them to show up as any larger than a dot when using a 50mm lens. My photography opportunities expanded vastly when I switched from a rangefinder camera to a SLR.
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May 12, 2018 07:54:31   #
DanielB wrote:
This would be my approach. Why allow your camera to choose for you. High ISO can kill image quality so shoot at as low a setting as possible to keep your image clean.

As I have already said, you may have a choice between insufficient DOF or motion blur or possibility of noise. My intention for the future is to get a camera that handles higher ISO values gracefully.
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May 11, 2018 22:13:05   #
billnikon wrote:
B&H sells only Casio musical keyboards and projectors, that's it. Cannot find that they make any camera's anywhere on the web. Unless Casio has been very low key about their camera's.

My mother's last camera was a Casio. My Dad, who died in 2013, purchased it for her; it was one of many things I pitched when moving her to a nursing facility last November {the batteries were oozing}
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May 11, 2018 22:06:50   #
Kuzano wrote:
Leica and Epson (RD1) are the only digital true rangefinders I remember. Most others are simply referred to as rangefinder styling because of the lack of a prism on top.

My Dad had a "Mitsubishi" rangefinder camera in 1962. My first two adjustable cameras, a Yashica Minister III {1969} and a Canon QL-19 {1973} were both true rangefinder cameras. I'm guessing there were a lot more of them than you were aware of.
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May 11, 2018 21:31:22   #
R.G. wrote:
When using Auto ISO in Manual mode you need to be constantly careful that the ISO isn't maxing out or bottoming out (that can happen very easily without you realising that it has). You need to see both shutter and ISO change simultaneously. My D5200 doesn't give any warning that you've maxed out or bottomed out with the ISO.

With my Pentax K-30, the chosen ISO value is displayed in the viewfinder, and that value flashes when I have reached a limit and the camera is thereby prevented from choosing the value it "wants".
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May 11, 2018 21:21:58   #
The following thread caused me to revise my thinking about the whole issue

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-487131-1.html

As a old film user, I'd always been reluctant to go much above base ISO, but that creates problems in certain dynamic situations. As John Gerlach points out in the above thread, using auto ISO + manual mode enables user to control DOF and control motion response, and still allow the camera to respond to changing light.

Modern Pentax cameras have a TAv mode, which is just that - the user controls shutter speed and aperture, then the camera adjusts ISO setting {within the limits set by the user} to make exposure right.
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May 11, 2018 09:46:09   #
prcb1949 wrote:
Thanks I got your meaning I am having to read all the replies and digest them as there is so much I don't have a clue on.

One other piece of advice: as a film photographer, I learned to make each photograph a project. VR should be turned on unless you are using a tripod. Be aware of everything your camera is telling you before you press the shutter. I'm not familiar with Nikon viewfinders, but you need to understand everything there. What shutter speed is being used, and what are the effects of that? {shutter speed controls motion blur} What aperture is being used, and what are the effects of that {aperture controls DOF - how much of the picture will be in good focus}. Where is the focus point? {focus point is area in exact focus}
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