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Posts for: bcrawf
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Jul 4, 2018 10:04:46   #
fedup wrote:
I am looking for a way of carrying a pair of binoculars round my neck and somehow a camera without the straps getting in the way when using one or the other. I am sure someone must have solved this problem.


Binoculars on neck strap (hanging in front), camera and bag on (left) shoulder. Works best for me and I do not think I could manage gear on both shoulders, since it takes concentration to maintain a shoulder carry.
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Jul 2, 2018 12:49:05   #
jeryh wrote:
I think you would negate the whole purpose of a gimbal head by attempting to use it on amonopod! By all means try it on a TRIPOD, but I think you would be sorely disappointed trying to use it otherwise ! And severely out of pocket .....


You should try it before deciding. It works fine (with gimbal or ball) as a measure which offers significant steadying without the often-impossible use of a tripod.
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Jul 2, 2018 12:41:42   #
fotobyferg wrote:
Guess I’m crazy by UHH standards. I used a mono/gimbal combo with my 150-600 lens and got nice shots in Africa and Galapagos. I couldn’t imagine dragging a tripod around on those trips.


Yep, it goes to show how wrong people can be when making pronouncements on what they have not tried.
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Jul 2, 2018 10:20:19   #
Rab-Eye wrote:
I generally go to the ballpark with my 70-300 lens, but I’d like to try the 200-500 the next time I go out. I still do not trust myself to get good results handholding this lens. I use a very basic head on my monopod which simply tilts forward and backwards. I am shooting from the stands, so a tripod is out of the question. Would it be crazy to put my gimbal head on my monopod to use this lens? In case anyone asks, the 70-300 is definitely adequate from where I sit, but I want to try out the 200-500 just for grins. Actually, it would be a big advantage for shooting outfielders. What do you folks think?

Thanks!
I generally go to the ballpark with my 70-300 len... (show quote)


Good idea as long as you tighten the ball to be a little stiff and proceed the same as when you are just hand-holding (since you cannot let the camera go). You will need to be in a spot where you do not have to duck around other spectators.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:22:26   #
RichJ207 wrote:
Good morning,
Could you post a picture that shows the lens with model number showing?
Thanks,
Rich


OK. I've just sent it, though I am not sure where you will find it. I linked it to the original announcement.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:20:16   #
bcrawf wrote:
Like new, comes with Canon hood, bag and orig. Canon box. $825 plus shipping from Virginia..


Here's the lens with markings, the box and the hood. (The Canon lens bag is included, too.)


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Jun 30, 2018 09:58:31   #
Like new, comes with Canon hood, bag and orig. Canon box. $825 plus shipping from Virginia..
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Jun 30, 2018 09:46:38   #
Jim750 wrote:
I currently have a D 7100 and a D 750,that being said, I have it in my mind a desire to have a D 3s.Is this a good thought or should I rid my mind of this. How and what I shoot have nothing to do with this,it may be a GAS thing, I don’t know.


If you just want to own it, go ahead. If you want to photograph, try to identify what capability you desire beyond what your present camera provides, then identify what camera would provide that.
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Jun 30, 2018 09:41:29   #
Shootist wrote:
Something I have been puzzling over for a while. The aspect ratio of most cameras is 3:2. I find this suits landscapes here in Wyoming due to the seeming vastness of the possible images available here. Many photographers matte and frame their photos at 4:3 or other ratios. I have tried to use the ratios other than 3:2 but almost always find myself less than thrilled. Somehow the other ratios don't seem to convey what I feel concerning the subjects I choose, they seem incomplete or truncated. Looking at other's work I usually have the same feelings about their work. What concerns me is that I may have developed tunnel vision and am missing something of value. While I am coming along where the technical skills are concerned, I don't want to get into a composition rut that prevents seeing other ratios that may be valuable. Have any of you confronted this issue and if so how did you resolve it? Input of any description is welcome.
Something I have been puzzling over for a while. T... (show quote)


There is no mechanical correct or best h/w image ratio. The best suggestion I can offer is that you get an art book and look at the images until you see what guides the ratio choices.
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Jun 30, 2018 09:33:46   #
ncammack wrote:
Hello all,

Being new on the forum I really don't want to stir up a hornet's nest but I have to ask; Post Processing, yes or no? If yes, what program(s) do you use. If no, I'm curious as to why not. To be honest, I do some post processing using GIMP, Dark Table, and Luminance HDR. Not always, but when I feel that a little punch up will turn a good shot into a great one.

Typically, some sharpening and maybe some raising of shadow detail and/or lowering of highlights would be the minimum post-processing, not to mention cropping, of course. Beyond that, most images benefit from application of local or over-all controls when guided by a developed visual sense. In applying digital tools or measures (however you like to think of those), we who've printed B&W and color in the darkroom have a running start on those who have not, but all can be learned.
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Jun 29, 2018 09:56:47   #
dino21 wrote:
Then what do I do with it after that?

You should ask the one who will make the print what they can best use for doing it. Be prepared to get back from them some questions they will want you to answer.
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Jun 14, 2018 08:58:52   #
Gene51 wrote:
The obvious has no place on the table. I prefer to not go down certain avenues when solving problems, just to say I can rule them out. VR is not something that could ever produce haze in an image. Fungus, dust, etc inside a lens or on the front/rear element, a poor quality filter, smudge on the sensor, pointing the camera at strong light, these are all likelier scenarios which I would look for initially. But without an image you could blame haze on the Northern Lights or the dust from the volcanoes going off, or a cloudy day.
The obvious has no place on the table. I prefer to... (show quote)


Right, haze cannot be caused by VR. The questioner needs to post an example or two to get useful help. There might need to be two photos, one from the "haze" lens and one from another (same view and time). Otherwise, maybe the best suggestion is that it was hazy outdoors.
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Jun 14, 2018 08:47:24   #
Jrhoffman75 wrote:
GP-E1 is for Canon 1D X cameras. It connects to an accessory port on the camera. GP-E2 can connect via hot shoe to a number of Canon cameras, can connect via a cable to some, and when connected will geotag photos. GP-E2 can also be used as a data logger without camera connection and geotag photos using software. This requires accurate setting of camera time.


Thanks for helping clarify.
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Jun 14, 2018 08:46:28   #
PeterBergh wrote:
The GP-E1 and the GP-E2 are compatible with different cameras. Check Canon's web site for a list of compatible cameras for the different models. I have the GP-E2 and it works like a charm with my 5DSR (as long as I remember to keep a fresh AA battery in the GP-E2).


Thanks! I just found Canon's online information unclear and hated to get on the phone.
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Jun 13, 2018 12:34:37   #
Anybody have experience with these? I am wondering what is the difference between the GP-E1 and the GP-E2.
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