I have several camera backpacks and some with that have wheels and some that do not. At the end of the day, any camera back will probably carry more weight that you intended to in the first place. I find at 20 liters, there is more than enough space to carry far too much camera gear weight. The quest to carry everything is going to hurt. Having the ability to roll things around is sometimes important and having something to use to transport gear as carry on is vitally important to me. Smaller camera bags or packs are also what I use for the day's work. Having several camera bags, camera backpacks (rolling and not), or cases (rolling and not) is ultimately what I've done. Just as a single lens cannot cover all photography needs, and as we add more lenses, bodies, and gear, one camera bag/backpack cannot cover all needs. If not already mentioned, Lowpro and Thinktank and Peak Design all offer great camera backpacks and bags of all kinds.

Which big camera store in Dallas?

Ones hand size does matter when holding a camera body for extended times on a shoot. A quick grab shot from a P&S camera or from ones cell phone is fine, but during extended times when holding a camera, the camera must feel right. For those with large claws (me included), the trend towards smaller mirrorless bodies is simply awkward. I have full sized DSLR's (FF and APC) and am most comfortable with the extra battery grips for my large claws, but then there's that weight. My first grasp of a Sony A7rIII was awkward in that I liked the weight but where does my little pinky go? Then there is the nice Sony small hand grip that is just for my little pinky to land without the mass of a battery holder. Nice execution for Sony for us with large claws!

I saw them and thought they were a great idea and order a couple. I received them and they were relatively stiff to put on the front end of a lens requiring what I thought to be way too much torque to be applied on the end of the lens to stretch the rubber silicon around the lens front. I felt there also should be tabs or something on the lip of the caps to help getting them on and off the lens. In the end, I called the company and said I did not like them because of the above stated reasons and requested a refund, which they did comply.

it is a Pentax K or KAF Variant mount. This lens is a autofocus lens and has no manual f-stop rings designed for Pentax Cropped Sensor (APC) cameras bodies such as the Pentax K3 bodies.

I am selling this extra Pentax DA 16-45mm/4.0 ED for $100. Virtually brand new, flawless, and excellent condition. Works great and the price includes USPS One Rate shipping within the US. Does not include its original hood but has a rubber third party hood.

I am selling this extra Pentax D BG-6 Battery Grip for the Pentax K1 for $150. Virtually brand new, flawless, and excellent condition. Works great and I will throw in a Wasabi D-LI90 battery. Price includes USPS One Rate shipping within the USA.

I am selling this extra Pentax D FA 28-105mm/3.5-5.6ED DC WR for $350. Virtually brand new, flawless and excellent condition with box. Works great and the price includes USPS One Rate shipping within the USA.

A "build up" over the years of covered storage sounds unlikely, unless it's mold. What does the build up look like? White spidery looking veins is a mold that grows and eats on the lens coatings. This occurs mostly in dark, damp and humid locations. While the mold can often sometimes be removed from the lens surface (though often not entirely because possible remaining spores left behind that are virtually impossible to get rid of), the mold can damage the lens coatings and even etch the glass. Mold growing on coated glass surfaces is an very insidious and can of spread to other optical surfaces if stored in humid conditions. This is often why people will not purchase used lenses if there is any hint of mold on lens surfaces (me included).

Peak Design is a nice ecosystem of straps and camera clutches that allow rapid removal of straps and allow the use of a body clutch. For walking around I have a wide strap and the clutch attached to the camera. When I get into shooting, I will remove the wide strap to get it out of the way to shoot without interference. I often use their ARCA plates and capture clips but recently started using an L bracket. The L bracket is completely compatible with the Peak Design ecosystem. Again the clutch and straps are very nice.

Another comment....when copying slides, sometimes bracketing your exposure helps a lot to get a correct image of the slide. Also remember to be sure each slide is totally dust free prior to placing it into your copying device. With the amount of slides you have to copy, I'd considered some form of air compressor with a filter otherwise you'll go through too many cans of expensive canned air. If you can, working in a dust free environment helps minimize retakes.

I have a pair that yearly visits my pool...I chase them off because I am not a fan of duck poop in my pool!

Bellows unit work well, so does extension tubes. Bellows unit works well in that you can sometimes crop the transparencies. Be aware that some slides will often have a slight curvature at the edges (near the mounts). You can stop down to increase your depth of view or crop out the slide curvature. Using an LED light box or incandescent bulb is nice, but I have found that using the early afternoon sunlight hitting the white drapery shears in my studio/office works perfectly with my bellows unit mounted on a good steady tripod. BTW: Some LED lights can often have a deficiency in some reds.

The Pentax TC DA1.4 works well on the K3 and K1 and maintains all electronic connections.

A TC on a macro sort of defeats the purpose of a macro...loss in IQ and loss of aperture and DoF. Yes, the TC is a inexpensive way to get reach, but today this can often be done easily in post processing cropping. While the reach of a 200mm macro is often very distinct advantageous in stayed further away, but it's a compromise in the weight when chasing butterflies around after an hour. I love using a 100 or 105mm macro on a FF or crop sensor.