The older external card readers would not read any SD HC cards at least not any 4 GB or more.

dsturgis

The images should bein the recycle bin of your computer, you can bring them back to where you want to keep them on the computer.

dsturgis

Hove Depot, hardware shore may not go below 4mm in size.
Eye glass kits might not have metric sizes.

A hobby shop I have been in has very small metric sizes.
I have had some luck pulling small screws out of junk computer hard drives for camera repair.


dsturgis

A Raw file is…
• at least 8 bits per color – red, green, and blue (12-bits per X,Y location), though most DSLRs record 12-bit color (36-bits per location).
Not true. Each pixel on the sensor only sees 1 color- the red, green or bule. The raw file only records the one color. So there should be only 12 bits per location (if the camera has a 12 stop dynamic range. Viewing or and conversion software estimates the color of each pixel in the standard 3 color display.

• uncompressed (an 8 megapixel camera will produce a 8 MB Raw file).

this seems about right, will vary by camera model I guess, I usually see about 1 MB per Megapixel with some extra added on for metadata & what ever else the camera manufacturer feels is needed.

You can not edit a raw file with any program I ever heard of. You can make changes when you convert the raw file to some other format. If you plan on doing a lot of edit work to a picture especially things you think will improve the picture you probably should use a lossless file like .dng or .tif. In you plan on only a few simple changes like rotating or cropping and one or a few resaves than .jpgs are probably ok.

dsturgis

Minolta sold a line cameras labeled Dimage.
Did that stand for Digital Image or could it be read as Dim Age.

dsturgis

I have been setting up a new computer & got a real mess doing it. I hand the Bing tool bar in Google Chrome instead of the Google search engine, so many pop ups both on screen & audio I could not read UHH despite having pop ups blocked in both Chrome & internet exporter, also messages telling be I had to update my computer. I had other software I didn't want some could be uninstalled some gave more problems. I had to get help from my son a software engineer to fix the problems. We had to uninstall Google Chrome, Google Earth & Picasa & problems I had no idea what they were than clean up the registry. I re installed Google Chrome, Google Earth & Picasa with more care.

Lessons learned when down loading the software be sure to decline any extra software even extra software you think you might want. Just declining the license agreement does not stop the software from downloading. Maybe most important make sure you are downloading from Google, not some place that wants to cram other software and take over your browser.

dstugis

Hard to tell. We once used a SD card in a Pentax *ist DS to number 0571 than used it in a Nikon compact (E4200) which numbered the pictures 0572 to 0685. The card was put back in the Pentax which numbered the pictures from 0686 without breaking out of the number sequence until it got to 9999.

The only problem I found that might happen with not formatting the card for the camera, was trying to format a SD HC card in the above Nikon made about 2005, it would not format the SD HC card it required a reg SD card. I don't know if it would take pictures on a SD HC card.


dsturgis

The image is badly out of focus. Try to find why the auto function did not function right at 1/180 sec shutter speed this is not a IS system problem.

dsturgis

Old 35mm trick: after you close the camera watch the rewind knob as you advance to the first frame you will take pictures on, watch that the rewind knob moves as you take the first few pictures. Because of slack of the film in the cassette it may take a few frames before the the spool in the cassette starts to move. The older cameras that did not have easy loading systems were more difficult. I never had a old Leica but I believe they may have been less certain in loading than most cameras.
It is possible the film transport might not be working. When testing old cameras I like to run a junk roll thru the camera to see if the film does go thru it. This is especially true with power wind cameras. It might be possible that the film transport has been disengaged as for taking intentional double exposures.


dsturgis

Here are my quesses; Your XP computer is a older computer that will not read SDHC cards,that is a problem with the hardware for your card reader or the level of USB bus your computer has if you have an external card reader.
I don't know if a new card reader will fix your problem. I have seen a older computer that would not read SD cards.
If your computer was made before SDHC your instructions will not tell you that you can not use SDHC cards (the same thing for older cameras.)

On the camera end the camera creates a folder on the SD card "DCIM" seems to be typical, the camera might create sub folders such as for each date. If you put a picture file such a a .jpg there the camera should display in on its display.
If you put the file outside of the "DCIM" or what ever name your camera brand uses I don't believe the camera's operating system will see it. Plug your camera into the computer & your computer treats it as another drive like a hard drive or CD. You will be able to see any files stored outside of the DCIM folder when you look for them.


dsturgis

The Fujica uses 2 AA batteries, Neither ones uses the discon tinued K battery.

dsturgis

Back to original topic sort of.
I lost about 130 photos from one camera can't find them any where not on any SD card I have lying around, not on my computer's hard drive or my wife's computer, or any CDs in made for backup, any any USB stick I might have used for back up while on vacation. I think I still have the card but formatted it at some point. I should have checked earlier that I had backed up all of the pictures.

My Pentax K30 has a place I can put my name in copyright information. My name will be in the EXIF information in all my photos that might help for someone to find where the SD card came from.

dsturgis

mborn wrote

Harvey
if you want to capture the meteors, First a wide angle lens, tripod, manual, f stop not higher the f/4, ISO 3200 -6400, time - take the f stop and divide by 600 But no longer than 30 seconds; ....
I believe that is an error, I believe the rule of thumb is to divide 600 by the focal length of the lens ie if using a 20mm lens divide 600 by 20 giving a 30 sec exposure. Longer exposures will result in the stars not being points, still longer exposures give star trail arcs. If taking pictures of the meteors star trail arcs may be ok.


dsturgis

I was testing a Mamiya 55mm f/1.4 lens, when on a tripod where it was hard to get a good view of the viewfinder I found that live view was useful for focusing the lens.
I like your photo of the knife at f/5.6, DOF was not quite enough to cover the knife but the back ground is less distracting then the picture at f/8 although f/8 has enough DOF to cover the knife.

dsturgis

I use Scancafe as well as scanning my own work.
Sometimes they used the same model scanner as I have at home.
General thoughts:
1. They can scan medium format & larger, I don't have equipment to do it.
2. They do a better job with Black & White than I been able to do.
3. They do a very good job of cleaning the slide or negative before scanning or making the scan look like it is well cleaned.
4. They over crop (don't scan the full area of a slide) usually not a problem but I had to rescan a slide on my own because the composition only looked right by going out to the edge of the film.
5. Sometimes I don't like the color or contrast of of slide they scanned. I had some pictures taken during the golden hour before sunset, they scanned them so that the color was correct for daylight. I was disappointed the picture on the screen didn't match the warm glow of the slide. I find I often have to post process for color, contrast etc. if I do them or Scancafe does them.
6. They scan at 3000 dpi fairly cheap 4000 dpi scans are expensive.
You may have some pictures taken with fine grain film,
in good light, fairly high shutter speed, sweet spot for f stop of the lens, good focus etc. that you may what a higher resolution scan.

dsturgis