Pardon me, but does Kelby not own NAPP, or at least is the perpetrator of NAPP.

Why should it be made so confusing if he is in charge of both?

NAPP was founded by Kelby Media Group per this site post:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Association_of_Photoshop_Professionals

Does the rear element of the Canon 100x400mm lens move?
Is there a relief hole in the rear of the lens, within the mount to funnel air pressure past the rear element in the sensor area of the camera.

I would encourage the OP to simply find one of the older high quality fixed focal length 400mm Canon EOS lenses and try to save some money that way.

There are a number of the Canon fixed 400mm lenses on eBay right now... many with f2.8 aperture, for prices from $4000 to $7000. Step up. They have no zoom and could not possibly spray your sensor with dust.

:hunf:

Interesting point you make here. I made up an attachment to my computer. When I am at my computer, the power supply heats up a liquid in the attachment that emits the aroma of Dextol. I am working now on patents for the device and a follow up of other chemical film processing aromas.

I buy all my film on eBay. 135 TMax 400 professional is bringing $5 a roll easily for expired, refrigerated.

I sues expired from good sellers on eBay, and have no problems as a rule.

If you can get current date 400 TMAX...for $5 a roll, best jump now!

The EOS mount for lenses did not appear until 1987. It's likely your mothers lenses are manual focus FD lenses which will not fit the EOS lens mount without a rather expensive adaptor only available from Canon. Even then, if they are FD lenses they will not Autofocus.

If your mother bought all her lenses After the introduction of the EF series lenses (after 1987) they should mount to current Canon cameras and likely be autofocus.

Be aware however that Canon still sold FD mount cameras and FD lenses for a period after the EOS mount arrived on the scene. Knowing the years alone will not give you the answer you seek....

You need to see the letter designation on the lens. FD for older manual focus, or EF for older autofocus. There was overlap. The T90 camera was the intro of the Canon EOS electronics, but still used, and was the last camera using, the FD lens mount.... Came out in 1986

I looked on the web site to see if they sell Quantaray lenses. They don't, so that puts them on my list of possible places I would buy. Not carrying Quantaray is an indication of having some standards about merchandise.

I won't do business with anyone who handles Quantaray lenses!!!

Whatsoever! :thumbdown:

Which also explains why I won't buy Sigma, since Quantaray has made some lenses for Sigma. Also... a bit put off on Amazon as they carry Quantary. But I do contend that Amazon will sell anything they can make a dime on. That's just gluttony.

There's likely to be a vast difference between a Prostitute and a Virgin on the wedding night.

Plus, the prostitute will never be offended when, out of force of habit, you leave a wad of crumpled up $20 bills on the nightstand the next morning.

You've likely been paying her for some time anyway, and the state of marriage only financially favors the virgin.

OH yes, and just so no one gets all "heated" by my references, my thoughts on these topics apply to male prostitutes and male virgins as well as female. Those states are not gender issues with me. Cool down.

The batteries???? Hmm... Same as my camera, my batteries are all now used batteries, but buy them that way? Don't think so.

The first thing that comes to my mind is the possibility of front or back focus. I have sent three Canons and the particular lens to Canon in Irvine CA over the years for either front or back focus.... A 5D, A 40D and a 30D.

You can test for back/front focus your self. There are kits and descriptions of kits to set up for testing focus on the combo.

Many recent cameras have calibration built in to correct for this focus problem. The models I had were prior to such advances. With the built in software program, each lens has it's own correction figures.

However, sometimes a particular camera/lens combo needs shimming by factory techs. Mine were all corrected by adjustments in the mounts.

The nature of the problem is that the fine tolerance allowances needed for a lens mount on both the body and the rear of the lens to work smoothly can sometimes be at the wrong combination of plus/minus tolerances, and only correction can be physically done on a proper test bench.

Also keep in mind, that plus/minus tolerances exist on all camera bodies and every lens you buy. Therefore, corrections made for one specific lens may alter the focus on a second or third lens.

When I sent my Canon 5D in, I sent three lenses. Focus was corrected and the camera shot wonderfully focused images thereafter.

It's a real "Pisser" to pay the money for "L" lenses and have focus problems that have nothing to do with glass, or mechanical functions of the lens.

Every body and lens in my bag now gets a B/F focus test. Sometimes just getting another example of the same lens fixes the problem. Setting up and running the tests is quite easy.

Quality control and "kitting" of lenses is just not good enough to resolve this occasional occurance.

Here is just one article, fairly well written and dealing mostly with human error conditions, but it introduces the physical settings of a B/F focus test. There are tons of articles on the internet if you search and some of them actually sell kits for testing. However, this is a good intro:

http://cameralightlens.com/newsblog/?p=264

Quite true.... My first digital camera as in 1992 as I recall, and it was the logitech fotoman. Shot only in grayscale, an image 376 x 240 (or .09 megapixel). Had internal storage of 4Mb, and held 32 images (no cards). When the battery died, you lost your pictures.

Here is a bit of info from Camerapedia:

"The Dycam Model 1, also known as the Logitech Fotoman, was a greyscale digital camera launched by Logitech in 1990. The Dycam model was dark grey, whereas the Logitech was white. It was the first commercially-available digital camera. The camera was aimed at businesses requiring fast turn-around images. The images were 8-bit (256-level) greyscale and low-resolution, at 376x240 pixels, and the camera only had enough storage for 32 of them, compressed in its 4Mb of RAM. Later models were upgraded to 376x284 pixels. The memory was volatile, that is, when the batteries ran down or were removed, the pictures would be lost. The high price (£499 in the UK) limited its market. The camera could connect to a PC via a cable to the serial port for uploading. It had a fixed focus f4.5 lens 55mm 35mm equivalent, with a shutter running from 1/25 to 1/1000s, and a built-in flash. The CCD sensor was rated at ~200ISO, and a neutral-density filter was supplied for use in very bright light"

I paid a bit over $800 for the camera and it's vast array of accessories.... as noted above.

Pretty hard for me to think or worry at all about "best" choices today, for a couple of reasons.

1) Whatever you buy today, it will be a miracle if you don't change UP?? before a year elapses.

2) Whatever you buy today will be better than what you are using now.

And my final point, while you're waiting for all of us to flaunt you with our bias' and rationilizations for what we bought (which was probably wrong anyway), your wasting daylight.

A dart board is likely the best way to go. :mrgreen:

My first digital, before I upgraded to the second model for another $900

It's been stated here that in the US, the 600D is the Canon Rebel 3Ti, so please be aware that it has been superceded by two newer models, the T4i and the T5i already.

Watch price accordingly as the camera is now third generation, and will be used once purchased, if not now. Are you buying used or new?

Amazon currently has the same camera priced at $549 with one lens.

The 3Ti alone... body only is selling for about $300 used on eBay, and with one lens.... average $350 to $400.

There are currently over 1500 listed on eBay.

The Canon web site is directly selling the factory refurbished T3i body alone for $299 at the present time. Factory refurbs are an excellent way to save money, particularly on Old Stock.

I had a T2i, and presume the T3i is also good. It's just getting a bit old, so watch the purchase price.

I think the OP is onto something there. I crop like that as well. Just add back in what seems to add to the picture.

Only problem. By the time I get done, maximum print size is often 4X6... no pixels left.... perhaps 250K to 300K.

Bought a pair of hiking boots and disabled the crop feature in my software.... "Crop by Hike". :lol:

I've mentioned this before, but here goes again.

I shot one wedding for a female coworker.

I shot the wedding in the afternoon and then drove the happy couple to an airport 140 miles away to catch a honeymoon flight.

I had very nice camera equipment and a truly nice BMW sedan at that time.

Ultimately they thanked me for the ride to the Airport!

Thereafter, I always made it a point to take a flight somewhere exotic the day before anyone I knew got married. Sorry, going to be out of town that day.

Dishwashers certainly have less equipment expense. No software expense. Probably make more money than most who profess to be professional photographers.

"f8 and be there" does not a professional make.

Ah yes, the story about the man who was fired as the Maitr'de at a fine restaurant. Came home and told his wife. Turned out he got his hand caught in the dishwasher.

Met a fellow years ago in San Francisco who was a photographer for the food industry, as well as other industrial products.

Had a full kitchen/dining setup in his studio and a cook/chef who used to come in an prepare meals. One item he used to have in his kit of tools was a spray mist bottle. Used to spray dishes with a light mist of water. Then light the scene and shoot. Made a big difference in how the dishes looked in the final image.