On a crop sensor camera the 18 - 200 may not get wide enough for the narrow streets you may want to photograph. I would definitely take the 10 - 20 lens. If you do not want to carry all three of your lenses, I would leave the 35 1.8 at home.

An inexpensive and easy back up strategy would be to purchase an inexpensive portable external drive that is powered by the USB port so you do not need to plug it into an outlet. You can buy one for less than $50.00 on Amazon. There is no need to spend the money on an ssd drive as you do not need high speed for a back up drive. Then use back up software that will automatically, on schedule you set, run back ups. I use carbon copy cloner at around $40.00. Your initial backup may take some time, but it runs in the background and does not tie up your computer. Then your daily, or weekly back ups will be very fast and run in the background. You will not notice it. I back up my photo hard drives daily using this system and it works well. If you really want to protect yourself you can periodically back up to a second hard drive and keep it off site to in a fireproof box.

I use Capture One Pro 20. I use keywords along with smart albums. This allow me to automatically file images into folders that are easy to find. Frequently the same image may land in multiple folders. For example I have a "Black and White" smart folder and an "Abstract Image" smart folder. I can assign the key words Black and White and Abstract to an image and it will be found in each folder. This makes it very easy to locate images

Focus assist may not work with BBF on a Nikon. I works on all of my Canons.

I shoot Canon so I am not sure how the Nikon works. However, with my Canons I have to turn off the focusing function on the shutter button if I want to use the back button to focus. Then I can lock the focus with the back button and not have the shutter button change the focus when I take the picture. That may be your problem.

burkphoto's description of the need for calibration is correct. A properly calibrated monitor is essential for printing at home. It is the only way to insure that your prints on paper will look like the image you see on your monitor. Most quality calibration software will permit you to set the screen brightness to match your printer's output. This brightness level is sometimes lower than the manual brightness you can set on your monitor. I use i1studio to calibrate my monitor and print on a Canon pro 10 and my prints are spot on. I also use the profiles for my papers that are set for my printer. I think that if you are simply sending JPGs to a good lab it is likely that the lab will make the necessary adjustments for a neutral print. However, if you are trying to print a complicated color scene such as a late sunset where you want to prioritize a particular color in the sky, you will obtain abetter result from a lab if you use a calibrated monitor, and instruct the lab to print the file exactly you sent it.

I do my own printing on a Canon Pro10. I sell some prints, but I generally give them away as gifts. I discovered that Canon will send free sample packs of their 81/2 x 11 pro papers when I order ink from Canon online. The cost of the ink is the same as a a camera store and it frequently ships for free. Once in a while they will send a pack of A3+ paper for free. The free paper brings down the costs and I find the pro paper equal to the Ilford paper I usually use.

I suggest that you obtain a book "Photographing Oregon" by Greg Vaughn. Greg is a landscape and wildlife photography who leads photo tours in Oregon, Yellowstone and other places. I met him as a guide on a Muench workshop in Yellowstone. He also leads his own tours. He is a very good photographer and a terrific guide. You can find the book listed on his web site, https://gregvaughn.photoshelter.com. I think it is also on Amazon. Plan on rain and have fun.

I agree with most of the advice in this thread. However, I would not rely on converting to gray scale as the best way to create a raw file into black and white. This may work, but there are much better ways to create a high quality black and white image. I do not know how you post process your images, but most quality post processing software permit sophisticated work in black and white. I use C1 Pro 20. It allows me to convert to black and white, then adjust everything in the image, although I usually adjust exposure, etc. prior to conversion. It also has sliders for adjusting color sensitivity in black and white image. It also permits me to tone the image and adjust the tome in highlighted areas and shadow areas. IN some cases I use black and white styles that allow me to create an image with the style of a selected black and white film.
This is a long winded way of saying that there is a lot you can do to an image that will allow you to create a quality black and white image before bringing it to the printer. I do not know the printer you are using, but if it works, has provided you with high quality color images and has one or two gray tone inks, there is not reason to believe ti will not produce a quality black and white image.

I have used Capture One since version 8. I just upgraded to version 20 and I like it. It has some new features that I will use. I probably have $25,000 invested in camera equipment, I do not find the fee for an upgrade to be extravagant. I cannot be certain, but I think this version is faster than my previous versions. It also utilizes hardware acceleration and the previous version did not. The better speed and use of hardware acceleration may be related to my upgrading my OS to Mojave at the same time I installed version 20. I really do not know.

I generally shoot RAW. I follow the suggestions made by larryepage. I have two different picture style settings that I have modified from Canon's suggested settings. I use one foe landscapes and one for portraits. I generally use the neutral setting as this gives me a good starting point. The only way to be certain about the style you like is to try them and select the one(s) you like. Remember the style you select will be the one that appears on your monitor even if you are shooting RAW.

I always use auto white balance unless I am shooting with a consistent light source such as studio strobes or flash. I use Capture One Pro for post processing. I always shoot RAW. This allows me to adjust white balance to produce an image that I like. C1 also permits me to set white balance on different layers of the same image. This allows me to adjust sunlight from a window and interior lights inside a room in separate layers so they all look the same.

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I had a defective card reader. The images did not have this problem when I downloaded directly from the camera. You might try that and if it works simply replace the card reader. They are inexpensive.

I always use remote shutter release or a self timer when using a tripod.

I have a meFOTO navigator. It folds to a very small size and you can use one leg as a monopod. It comes with a nice ball head, although you can probably find it for wale without the head.