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Apr 7, 2016 18:27:53   #
rmalarz wrote:
Actually, the little ones are the more deadly ones. Also, all of them are fluorescent under UV light.
The danger is not really a size thing. The most venomous US scorpions are the Bark scorpions which are 15-20x larger.
Indeed, they fluoresce beautifully, the color ranging from a greenish-blue to a yellow.
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Apr 7, 2016 15:53:28   #
Bozsik wrote:
You stack the image?
Yes. Using Helicon Remote and Focus.
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Apr 6, 2016 21:16:15   #
Actual size ~1cm = .4-inch


(Download)
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Mar 29, 2016 09:12:02   #
So, there is some difference. With all settings and illumination constant the rail-stack does give an increased exposure compared to focus-stacked.


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Mar 24, 2016 19:32:21   #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
That's fine. But if you have a ring light mounted on the front of the lens, your light source moves closer to your subject as the camera/lens is moved along the rail, as you collect your stacks. At MWD, this can mean a significant change in the intensity of the light. The only time I use flash to stack, I have it off the camera (synced with an SC-17) so that the flash to subject distance remains constant.
(I have a macro twin flash unit that attaches to the front of the lens. I never use this set-up to stack.)
That's fine. But if you have a ring light mounted... (show quote)
Turns out, it may be a bit more complex. I just ran a trial with no flash, fixed LED lights, and the camera moving on a rail. I still see an increase in illumination: it seems that as the camera gets closer the reflected light has a shorter distance to travel and therefore is more intense. Tomorrow I will try a stack changing the focus, which should keep a constant level of illumination.
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Mar 22, 2016 20:32:30   #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
If you have a ring light mounted on the front of the lens, your light source is move closer to your subject as the camera/lens is moved along the rail as you collect your stacks.
Good point. I will use my remote flash when using the rail and see if it helps.
Thanks
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Mar 22, 2016 18:06:15   #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I've not had this happen. As you stack, is the light source also moving? If so, that could be the issue. Inverse square law, or something like that.
For this reason, I prefer natural, northern light by a window if I am indoors. When I'm outside, I like to stack on a cloudy day because the light is much more diffused and doesn't go sunny to cloudy which will affect both your white balance and your light intensity.
I am working in a basement lab, with no natural light available. I may try a more aggressive diffusion set-up to reduce the hotspot problem.
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Mar 22, 2016 17:36:07   #
Nikonian72 wrote:
Nice subject. A few hot spots. What is your illumination source?
Two LED lamps plus a Sigma ring flash that quit half way through. One problem I see quite often is that the exposure in the focus-stacked image is not the same as in the individual shots.
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Mar 22, 2016 16:33:12   #
Typical New England. I picked this pussy willow bud in the middle of a snowstorm on the first day of spring.


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Mar 22, 2016 07:50:01   #
Many thanks for the replies on the forum and PM. I am working in a microscopy center with vibration reduction built in, so that is seldom a problem. I am using a Cognisys StackShot and Helicon remote for control, both of which have given very good results with regular macro.
The Nikon 10x MM sounds excellent, but I am having trouble locating it (is there a Nikon part number?)
I will report on my final choice and, I hope, some spectacular pictures.
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Mar 21, 2016 12:14:25   #
I am looking into using a 10x or 20x microscope objective lens with my Nikon. Do any forum members have advice on quality/price experience, as well as practical advice on the set-up?
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Mar 3, 2016 21:11:46   #
Thanks for all the input. I hadn't thought about shipping it separately, that may be the best solution.
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Mar 3, 2016 11:10:45   #
I will be taking my entire set-up cross-country: far too much to carry-on. Any advice, past issues etc. on how to do this as hassle-free as possible?

Thanks
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Feb 24, 2016 19:06:15   #
planepics wrote:
I never thought about back-lighting. How would I do it? It was laid out on a piece of white poster board sitting on my bed. I could also try using my battery remote, but it's awkward to use sometimes as I have to point it at the front of the camera.
I like to put specimens on a piece of translucent plastic, and then put a light below as well as above. It eliminates most shadow problems.
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Feb 23, 2016 17:08:53   #
Using Wikipedia as a source.
The actual locomotion is achieved less by the exertion of the leg muscles than by local changes of body length. This can be controlled using the annular and longitudinal muscles. If the annular muscles are contracted, the body cross-section is reduced, and the corresponding segment stretches, since its volume must remain constant due to the incompressible behaviour of the coelom's liquid contents; this is the usual mode of operation of the hydrostatic skeleton as also employed by other worms. Due to the stretching, the legs of the segment concerned are lifted and swung forward. Local contraction of the longitudinal muscles then shortens the appropriate segment, and the legs, which are now in contact with the ground, are moved to the rear. This part of the locomotive cycle is the actual leg stroke that is responsible for forward movement. The individual stretches and contractions of the segments are coordinated by the nervous system such that contraction waves run the length of the body, each pair of legs swinging forward and then down and rearward in order.
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