Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: Elliott Design
Page: <<prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ... 18 next>>
Jul 23, 2015 11:23:08   #
It's a matter of WB that mostly can be overcome by using the proper camera settings for the lighting conditions, if you're not familiar with how to best choose, let the camera do it with Auto WB, usually does a pretty good job. Not much that could be done with this low resolution JPG but in LR6 I used the eye dropper to select his white shirt to set the overall balance, then used the color sliders to adjust the saturation and luminance of the red, orange and blue hues. Not perfect but could have been better with a raw file.
bcspeer wrote:
Suggestions for what kind of filter (I use the ones you screw on the lens) when shooting under fluorescent lighting. This week I got really
"yellow" atmosphere. Someone suggested that there are a couple of types of fluorescent lighting/colors. Would that suggest a couple of different filters depending on the light?


Go to
Jul 23, 2015 10:53:27   #
Just read your last post, the OEM is a great choice. I use the Meike version, works fine for me, maybe not as sturdily built as the OEM, no problems as yet after three months. Has a joy stick button, and most of the other controls as on the back of the camera. It also has a 2.4 wireless remote, there are several on eBay for around $80.
Basil wrote:
I'd been watching all the typical outlets ever since I bought my 7D Mark II for Vivitar to come out with their version of the Canon Battery Grip for the new 7DM2. I had the Vivitar Battery grip for my 7D and loved it. It worked great and seemed bit every bit as sturdy as a genuine Canon grip.

Finally Vivitar has come out with their grip for the Mark II! I just ordered that grip and an extra LP-EN6 battery for half the price of just a Canon grip alone.

Since I had the Vivitar grip for my 7D and had no problems at all with it over three years, I felt pretty confident buying this grip for $49 vs $205 for the "Canon" grip.
I'd been watching all the typical outlets ever sin... (show quote)
Go to
Jul 17, 2015 14:08:30   #
I first got the T3i about three years ago, liked it very well, so much so I bought another as a backup. Thought about the T5i but the only difference that amounted to much at the time was the improved video features (and the price), the T3i with Magic Lantern does video quite good so I stayed with the T3 series for my backup. Got a 7Dii late last year but still use one T3 with a macro lens and the other with the 18/135 STM for video. The T3i has an articulated screen as well as the T5i, very handy when getting down on the ground, you can move the screen to where you can see it from any angle.
Donkas1946 wrote:
I was also thinking about about a t3i so maybe I'll try and work a deal on both just to be used for macro. Thanks again
Go to
Jul 17, 2015 10:05:35   #
I've had the Canon 100L for a year or so and like it, never tried the others and they may do as well or better, sometimes depends on the camera they are attached to and how well they match on focusing. The 7dII lets you fine tune focus to the lens so that helps. I purchased a Kenko 1.4 teleconverter to use on my 7DII and the Canon 100-400L but it was not compatible at some focal lengths and f-stops, so I tried it on my T3i and the 100L macro and it works great, at 140mm brings those shy bugs up even closer.
Donkas1946 wrote:
I have several canon L lenses that will all do macro work to some degree but nothing really dedicated to do so. Any recommendations out there would be appreciated. I have heard good things about the canon 100mm both L and non L versions. Uses mainly flowers and inanimate objects, close up stills. Thanks in advance as always!
Go to
Jul 17, 2015 09:43:12   #
As Wedding Guy suggested, learning to edit raw files could be a blessing, but I won't get into all the benefits here, you can search the archives and spend your next 3 weeks before the trip lost in a lot of controversy over the concept. The Canon DPP software that came with your camera can open the raw files and convert to jpg so you can use them in PSE 10, while you're in DPP try some of the edit tools directly on your raw files, especially on those that are off on exposure levels, you'll see why raw has more headroom for exposure mistakes, you can still save them as jpg's and finish your normal edits with PSE. I would suggest that if you have some really good shots to save the raw files for future editing once you learn the process you can work wonders with the raw data, your 'mistake' may be great surprise. Anyway as to your question of how to set your camera to shoot jpg, with your LCD screen on there should be a box in the lower right corner with the file type listed. Press the "Q" button just above left of the SET button, use the up, down, left, right arrow buttons to move the highlight over the file type, then use the dial wheel to move through the selections of RAW+L, RAW, etc. the first one after RAW is high quality JPG (looks like a smooth 1/4 circle followed by an L). Then when you get through reading this and have your camera set to JPG, start studying the manual that came with it as you try different settings, you'll need to know some of these things while you're off on a trip and no one there to help, you don't want to miss a special shot because you were lost in the camera settings.
Woodstown Brian wrote:
I recently purchased the a Canon T5i camera. I must have used an incorrect setting and now when I tried to upload to PSE10 for editing all attempts have been unsuccessful since it is not in the JPEG format. I have tow questions: What setting should be my camera be set on for future editing purposes, 2. How can I easily convert the RAW files to JPEG. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated since I will be travelling to Scotland in 3 weeks. Thanks in advance
Go to
Jul 17, 2015 09:12:32   #
Flash has been a security hole for years and with all the world-wide hacks working hard to get into our computers Adobe is dropping it for something safer. Installing older browsers and older versions of Adobe Flash is asking for problems, hope no one gets any viruses from doing that.
HTML5 and CSS3 is the new way for animated content and it's compatible with all new browsers and operating systems, and yes, the hacks will find a way around it but your virus prevention software will have a much easier time finding trojans and viruses and keeping them out of your system.
Go to
Jul 16, 2015 10:00:37   #
Just send them the image in an email along with the title and information. If you try to add text into an image they may have to crop or scale it and that creates problems.
Image should be at least a 5" x 7" at 150 ppi, 24 bit RGB for them to work with, they'll convert, scale and crop to fit their column size from that and place the text with it in their standard size and font. Be sure to send the image file name along with the write up so they can keep track.
Go to
Jul 15, 2015 17:20:56   #
Did you find the Aftershot section? Use the link I posted to DPullum above, there is a section dedicated to AS. The book is here http://aftershotsurvivalguide.com/
YouTube has some tutorials that are pretty good too.
fishmaven wrote:
Thanks Larry. I hoped it was something simple. I joined the forum but there wasn't much about AS2 on there. Everyone was discussing previous versions. The book sounds like a good investment.

I do everything a little different... I use a Panasonic FZ200, an iMac, and AS2. Each one of those are a conudrum to many, even here on the Hog.
Dan
Go to
Jul 15, 2015 12:55:02   #
Dan, AS doesn't "import" as Lightroom does. Here's what you can do. Open the program, on the left SIDE of the program screen (not the FILE menu at the TOP) there are some (usually) hidden buttons or menus, click on FILE SYSTEM to open a file directory of your computer's drives. Yes, you should have more than one file in a folder to open them, copy all the files you want to work on into a single folder and AS will open them all at one time. Find the folder where you have stored these files you want to open and the images will appear on your screen. You have menu ICONS at the top (just below the file menu) that allows you to select thumbnails, standard view and full image. If you haven't already, there is a quick guide on the Corel user forum for free and a great detailed manual (not free) written by one of the moderators that covers everything you'd ever need to know.
fishmaven wrote:
Sorry to butt in, but I've been trying to use AS2. The only way I can import photos is manually one at a time. The directions and the videos all assume you've already got photos in a file on the computer. I'm starting this from step one. Give me a tip to get me going, please.

I don't know anything about Topaz. Maybe you should ask one of the guys in the first video you mentioned.
Thanks, Dan
Go to
Jul 15, 2015 10:20:48   #
I think Flash is dead, browsers are dropping support of it, I use Win IE and it still works there but some of the websites we've created for clients in the past are now losing the animated features because different browser can't handle it or are dropping it completely. A recent update of my smart phone no longer has support for flash and there are no apps available for the new OS in the LG 3G to make flash viewable, so yesterday I started removing all flash from our websites. That's progress I guess, like it or not, I don't, as it will cost me several hours editing sites and a few irate clients until Adobe figures out what to do, Adobe EDGE is on the horizon as the replacement using HTML5, CSS3 and JavaScript code for animation but the full release and support for EDGE is a year away.
REJ wrote:
I keep getting this warning, "Firefox has prevented outdated plugin Adobe flash from running on hedgehog". Whats my next step, I did not know I had a Adobe flash plugin. Thanks. REJ.

PS This just started three days ago.
Go to
Jul 15, 2015 09:53:26   #
Yes, Corel has been on and off for years, they've changed hands a few times and some of the less popular programs get pushed aside or dropped completely, I'm wondering if AS2 is going to be dropped as well. Appears Paint Shop Pro is their main concern at the present to keep them competitive with the majority of image processors and it works quite well but the speed of AS is great, even those with not so fast computers can work on large files in real-time. I've used CorelDraw and PhotoPaint almost exclusively in my design business since version 1 back in the late 80's, there's not many things that it will not do and for the few things that it can't there are specialized programs to go to. I DO NOT like PhotoPaint's raw processor, slow as mud and very few features, it's more of a converter to create other file types for PhotoPaint to work with. Currently for the quality image manipulation I use Lightroom 6 as my raw editor/converter and PhotoPaint X6 for the pixel level editor and Neat Image to clean up any noise Lightroom couldn't handle. Final sharpening is done in PhotoPaint on a luminance channel.
Currently I think the only way you'll be able to use Topaz in conjunction with AS is to set "edit with Topaz" in the preferences menu of AS, but not as a plugin as you want. This works just as well as a plugin maybe a few seconds longer to launch Topaz, when you save the 'edit as' file in Topaz it should return to AS and be ready for further editing there.
Go to
Jul 14, 2015 09:32:28   #
Corel has a user forum here,
http://forum.corel.com/EN/viewforum.php?f=93
You can subscribe and ask questions, there are some guys in the plugins section that write plugins and can answer most any issue. But from what I've read on the forum Topaz does not work with AS2, I don't have Topaz so I can't be sure if there has been a fix yet or not on Corel's side.
After Shot Pro 2 was supposed to be a great program but Corel has dropped the ball again, I've used AS for a couple years and thought it was pretty good until I tried Lightroom, no comparison for highlight recovery. I do like the way the user interface is set up in AS, very intuitive but unless Corel gets back onboard and starts supporting it I think it's going to fade away, even user participation on the forum is way down. AS2 will do most everything you need for raw processing but not as well as it could, Corel depends too much on unpaid plugin coders to create all the features to make it work as a photo enhancer.
Go to
Jul 9, 2015 09:28:09   #
Use the graduated filter and drag from the bottom of the photo up to the skyline, then you can use the temperature slider to remove some blue from the masked snow area, or click on the color button in the graduated filter panel and use the eye dropper to choose blue and change it's intensity or saturation without changing the sky. Or, adjust the image first to make the snow look right, then use a graduated mask over the sky and raise the saturation and hue for the blue channel.
FiddleMaker wrote:
I have a winter scene in which I was able to throttle back on the obvious blue tint to shadows cast on the white snow. This I did in the Color module (in Development) in Lightroom 5.7 . I simply moved the Blue saturation slider to -50. But in doing this, I lost my blue sky. It became noticeably gray. Hardly any blue tint at all.

How can maintain the original blue sky and still reduce the obvious blue tint to the snow bank shadows??
Thanks for any advice.

-FiddleMaker
Go to
Jun 26, 2015 10:15:22   #
Good shootin', the hot pink roses are my favorite.
Go to
Jun 24, 2015 09:45:21   #
lsimpkins wrote:
Thanks for the tip. We have a feeder within easy lens reach of our dining room window, but they only seem to visit a few times a day. I need to study their feeding patterns so that I am set up when they come calling. I'd love to get a capture as good as this one.


Their feeding routine is usually about every 15 minutes, or so I've noticed here on mine. There may be some individuals come in between times to get their 'share' as some of the males are very territorial and won't let the more timid Hummies feed. When they all come at once it's a blur of action with lots of chatter and wing buzzing, they can fly silent when they want or make a loud harmonic beat with their wings as a sign of aggression. I counted 14 early Sunday morning and even though we have 7 feeders scattered over about a 20' x 40' area, they all want to get on just a couple of them so I've also placed dead limbs with only a couple bare branches close by for landing stations while they wait their turns, this is a good place to watch them preen and get easy still shots. Capturing the inflight shots are a bit harder as these guys really move, catching them in a hover is in your timing and anticipation of their moves. My wife is making a gallon of sugar water a day to feed these critters.
Go to
Page: <<prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ... 18 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.