Probably overexposed enough that the sunspots aren't visible- they're still pretty bright, just a bit darker than the rest. Difficult to tell if focus is OK- the edge (astronomers call that the 'limb') of the sun isn't very sharp, but that may be the atmosphere- it's been pretty hazy here today. I'd suggest about 4 stops down- drop the ISO? I also wonder if the solar film might interfere with focusing. You might be better focusing on something distant, then switching off AF and being very careful not to move the focusing ring when putting the film back. Sorry- yet more experimenting!

Actually, exposed film will pass UV light which, with prolong exposure/viewing, can cause eye damage. Welders glass or sites selling solar visors that block UV are the only way to view a solar eclipse safely before or after totality. Do not use neutral density filters for the same reason - the filters will pass UV. Neutral density filters are acceptable for cameras only, not eyes. A site that will provide information and links is the NASA's eclipse site. I do not want to have any of our UHHs lose their eyesight due to misinformation and not be able to continue their photography. You must look at the information I have indicated if you believe I do not know what I am talking about. It is only your eyes at risk, not mine.

"Ship tossing around in the North Sea"? How small of a boat will this be? If this is one of those huge cruse ships then I would not be concerned with ship movement.

Dare I say it, I would not use a tripod. Set your av. and iso. so your tv. is 1/1000 of a sec.

I would be more concerned with your focus. The photo that you posted show no sun spots, it is not in focus.

Here is a photo taken with the same lens that you used but no tc. 1/000 of a sec., hand held, see the spots? Have fun on your cruise, don't go blind:)

In 1991 I was on a cruise ship between Maui and the island of Hawaii. We had many hours of instructions before the event. One is, if the ship rocks, click when it is between up and down. Another is that bracketing is very important. Not to insure success, but the promenences are visable at one setting and the chroma in another. Google tips. Unless you have a milion dollar camera, take a few shots...then just enjoy it. I met people that have witnessed 10 and 15 totals. PS We were given vistors made from cardboard and two unexposed 35 mm slides to look at the partial eclipse. You can look strait at the total without protection. David PM me if you want to discuss it.

Hi Photosarah. I've photographed the sun-on film in the '90s- and taken photos from a cruise ship, just not at the same time. The Magellan weighs 40 thousand tons- it will pitch and roll to some extent in a heavy sea, but it won't be tossed about with rapid or sudden movements. Judging by your photo's settings, a tripod might well be more of a nuisance than a help, and it will transfer vibrations from the ship.
I'd suggest that you practice when on board, photographing any distant objects including sun and moon, and see what works best- with/without tripod, and with/without extender. Another thought- you might be better recruiting a volunteer to hold you steady while you hold the camera steady! (It's quite unlikely that the sea will be so bad, but who knows...)
As always, good luck, and don't forget to enjoy it with your eyes as well as through a lens!

Photosarah, I believe in answering questions with an image attached. I hope you don't mind. Although these solar eclipse images were not capture while on a ship, they will give you information that might be helpful. I used an incanal solar filter on a Canon 400mm f/4 lens. I exposed at f/4 because depth of field (DoF) wasn't a concern. I think you'll be okay at a 60th of a second unless the seas are rough. You may have to increase your ISO but that is what's so wonderful about digital ... you can see your results with time to make changes! Use a good heavy duty tripod and head, use a shutter release, use a Hoodman hoodloupe or some other product to examine the results on your LCD display. Shoot in Manual so adjustments can be made easily and set your WB to daylight. I can't think of anything else except I wish I were with you! Best, J. Goffe

Congratulations on catching that fleeting glimpse of UK sunshine! You probably needed that fast shutter speed :lol: .

My understanding id that the "Active" VR setting is for shooting from a moving vehicle and as such it provides stabilisation in the horizontal plane only - not what you'd be looking for shooting up at the sun.

I would say that if 1/500 sec is typical, the movement of the cruise liner will be too slow to have any significant effect on the exposure. In fact I'd say that would apply to bracketed shots as well. A cruise liner will be not just big but stabilised as well. And even if your camera's a bit slow with the bracketed exposures, you should be able to align them during the merging process (not that I'm anticipating that you'll need to). At 1/500 sec. the individual exposures should be perfectly sharp.

As far as ship vibration is concerned, I'd say that's more of a possibility, but you would be able to feel it if it was strong enough to have any sort of effect on the exposures. You'll probably be on an upper deck well away from the engines and generators, so the chances are there won't be any vibration to speak of - but as I said, you'll be able to check just by feeling for it.

The only problem I can foresee is that you'll be using a tripod on a hard deck, and there probably won't be anything that spiked feet could penetrate. Rubber feet will be better but still not as secure as you would want, so you'll have to watch out for yourself or other people bumping the tripod.

Best of luck with your trip. It sounds like real fun :thumbup: .