It is really intended to be used on noisy images rather than normal workflow. Also, it should be the first process you apply to our image and best to use on RAW files and output RAW files. FWIW, I have found improved outcome when I have a jpeg image to process to first convert the image to RAW using JPEG to RAW program. And yes, it does take a couple of minutes to process, but wow the results are impressive.

A joy to view and a fine image capture.
Thanks for sharing.

You might ask for a refund from that course.

Most Nikon cameras (good ones) have a base ISO of 100. Some like my D810 have a base ISO of 64. I note best overall results will be obtained if shooting RAW rather than jpeg.

Simply put, ISO is as real as ASA is/was.

For those interested in really understanding how digital cameras work, I suggest reading Dr. Andy Rowlands’ book entitled “Physics of Digital Photography.” He explains such topics as ISO quite clearly.

The rate is $400-$500 per day, not per assignment. But the fun factor is hard to put a price on!

The advise to hire a PRO is absolutely correct. HOWEVER, check out the photographer carefully both on quality and reliability. Some of my relatives hired a PRO (?), paid the money up front, and received either nothing or not quality work. Fortunately, I attend some of these events and took "photos of opportunity". It was a good thing I did, because the families found mine better and my price was acceptable too. Just feed me something good at the reception! FWIW, I limit the number of images I give them to no more than 40.

There are a lot of want-to-be professional photographers out there. Weddings are not easy and experience is very important. Be prepared to pay a significant fee to those who are really professional wedding photographers. Also, beware of those that want you to pay it all up front. Thirds are fair IMHO.

DO NOT TRY THIS YOURSELF. Enjoy the day and be a part of the event!

Nice shots! I would bet two chocolate chip cookies that you need to adjust your AF fine tuning. It take a little effort to tweak your lens, but it is worth it IMHO. I shot my resident bluebird using a D810 and a Tamron 150-600mm lens. The lens was AF adjusted (in this case the D810 AF tune is set to zero and the correction is in the lens). I attached a cropped photo to show the sharpness when the AF tune is set well.

Two useful tools are Datacolor's SpyderLENSCAL (https://www.datacolor.com/photography-design/product-overview/spyderlenscal/) and the deluxe approach is Reikan's FoCal (https://www.reikanfocal.com/). I have both and prefer the FoCal because it gives automatic determination of the AF tuning and set the camera.

A cheap way to do it is to take a yard stick and put one end on something that raises it say about a foot and the other end is on the floor or ground (use a brick or the like to keep the yard stick from sliding). Put the camera on a tripod and focus at the center of the ruler. Look at the image and see where the image is sharpest (see where the number up and down the ruler look blurred about the same to get a better estimate of the best focus). Depending upon if the focus is too far or too close. Adjust the AF tune setting and do it again. Continue until you get the best setting. The camera will remember this setting for that lens. Best to use low F/#. Hope this description is useful.

I have a number of programs and I like Luminar 3 and Aurora HDR 2019 (Skylum.com); however, if you are serious about have great tools to process your images, then I suggest you look at products at Topazlabs.com. In truth, I use the Topaz products most of the time now. The Topaz Studio program is the base program and is free, and comes with a number of adjustment modules. As you determine what other adjustments you want to try, they are available for a free trial period. And yes, RAW is the best to process although jpg is okay too. A wonderful standalone program they offer is Topaz JPEG to RAW A.I. Look on the web for 20% off discount coupon code. ;-)

Enjoy doing photography in RAW!

I suggest you have a polarizer. I attached a photo I made recently of old Fungi (Fun Guy) in Donegel Bay, Ireland. Others photographing him didn't do so well because of the glare and not having a polarizer.

Actually it does work on RAW and you can output JPG, JPEG, TIF, TIFF, PNG, and DNG files. Nice program and works well on RAW noisy photos I tried. Since I had A.I. Clear, they sent it to me for free. Much appreciated Topaz!

I use Datacolor Spyder5ELITE to calibrate my monitors and SpyderPRINT to calibrate my printers. Printer calibration is the most time consuming. Each printer and each paper type have to be calibrated. Yuk! Is it worth it? In my opinion, yes. Change an ink cartridge or use a different lot of paper, then it is best to recalibrate. My CYMB printer does okay, but my 8 color printer (3-level black) does much better.

I have the Tamron 150-600mm G2 F5-6.3 and use it with my D810. I expect that Sigma has the same issue as does Tamron regarding the focus correction. The zoom and object distance algorithms for Nikon, Canon, Sigma, Tamron, etc. are proprietary. To get around this, Tamron have their Tap-In Console that allows you to determine the AF adjustment needed for a number of zoom and object distances. They have an algorithm in the lens that sorts out the correct adjustment for your camera. The camera correction is set to zero. It takes some effort to gather the data to upload to the lens, but it is worth it. I attached a cropped shot of a bluebird having a snack. I like the lens and its image quality is fine enough for most anything.

I have had to photograph a variety of painting of different types. Lots of good guidance has been given. I'll just make two comments. First, if possible, have highly diffused light with the camera perpendicular to the painting. Second, my best results come about when I use the Expodisc to set the WB. Best to set the white balance by placing the camera where the painting (will be) located. I use a Nikon D810 which I found has better WB than my friend's Canon equivalent. That's my humble opinion anyway.