Thanks so much searcher. Helped fill in the gaps. As a newbie to RAW, it's all gaps right now. LOL

I'm using Elements 11

What would the basic adjustments be, if any, that you would do when first opening a RAW file? My tendency on a first effort was to just fiddle with things until the pic looked better. After the basic, then are all subsequent changes done in RAW or at some point do you save as JPEG and then do additional adjustments? Do we save our original pristine RAW and the edited RAW as a separate file? I suspect that would be best but I've also read where anything done in RAW can be undone after it's saved in RAW so the original RAW might not be that necessary. Your advice would be appreciated.

You're right. It was the QUALITY setting. Set that to RAW + JPEG (fine) and it works like it's supposed to. Thanks so much.

Wanted to start working with RAW so I set my Nikon D7000 to record RAW in Slot 1 and JPEG in Slot 2. Both came out JPEG. I thought the RAW would have a different file extension and also the files in the RAW slot opened no problem with Windows 7, just like regular JPEG files. So I figure the camera did not record RAW like it was supposed to. I updated the firmware several weeks ago but never used the RAW option before the update so I don't know if the problem preceded the update. Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks Linda. I think a faster shutter would have been the order of the day to get the face and at least parts of the body sharper. Shooting with a Nikon D7000 in AF-S mode. Was wondering if AF-C for continuous follow focus would have been able to keep up with the action. I plan to do some PP in Elements, just a newbie at PP though. I worked on the Yakama for years. It's a small world.

Was trying to emphasize motion but maybe too much so. The point about fuzzy background is well taken. Tripod or monopod would have been better than handheld. Sharp background would have helped emphasize motion of the subject. Thanks for the good input.

Took this pic of a fancy dancer at 1/30th. Also did a few at 1/20th but they seemed to be too smeary. Any suggestions on a better shutter speed or is it just a matter of trial and error?

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We get lots of rainy and cloudy days here. I know of some of the tips like move in close. I'd like to hear some ideas about how to capture mood in a distant shot, perhaps do some PP with B/W. How to best use color and contrast. Maybe I need to take a class. LOL Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Took this pic on my morning walk with the wife's Coolpix SL22. Did some PP, cropped out a utility pole, adjusted blue level a bit, some minor spot healing here and there. The metadata says focal length was 24mm. Does anyone know how this relates to a 35 mm SLR? I know that my D7000 is 1.5 but I don't know what the Coolpix factor is. Thanks in advance.

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Gonna head for the Canadian Rockies next month. Car touring, no backcountry. My basic outfit is a D7000 with AF-S 18-200 3.5-5.6 lens, 2X converter, UV and polarizer filter, Bogen tripod, SB600 flash. Do I need to consider taking anything else? Renting a different lens? Will also be hitting Vancouver and Bouchart Gardens on return trip. Your advise would be appreciated.

Was wondering, in this day of computer-cameras, why we have to rotate the camera to take a vertically oriented photo. It seems this could be done with the push of a button. Are the sensors rectangular? If so, why not square to allow a landscape or portrait mode? Or do some cameras do this already?

Thanks muchly for all the good input. This UHH forum is just great.

Have not down this yet, or shot in RAW, just JPEG. When you edit in RAW, is there some point when you save to JPEG and then do more edits, or do you do everything in RAW and then save to JPEG? Just curious.

Is it possible or necessary to adjust a zoom lens' focus point, since there are an infinite range of points between the shortest and longest length? Or can you only do this procedure on a prime lens? Or do you do it at just one setting on the zoom and call it good?