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Posts for: bwana
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Mar 6, 2015 21:33:47   #
SharpShooter wrote:
bwa, first, make no mistake, that this was in no way directed at you! I only was responding to what you had brought up. If you thought it was personal, I apologize to you.
I did NOT miss that you mentioned "mirrorless". I said "most cameras" since ILM is a minute percentage of the market share.
So MOST of what I said applies to a majority is digital users.
And yes, I read the entire post, including the exact same post of the other day as this is really just a follow-up rehash to the OP's first post on the same subject with some added info that he found.
You are obviosly very up on mirrorless technology, so feel free to educate any that might not be, on how what you stated is different about mirrorless as opposed to how it applies to mirrored cameras, apart from the obvious. Do tell us exactly how a mirrorless sensor charges the sensor differently that it attracts dust differently, which was the OP's main point in this present post.
My point is that dust does NOT so easily reach the sensor in the ways that many seem to think it does. And that hot-swapping anything is extremely and rarely detrimental to the point of almost being non-existent.
You are much more likely to destroy your camera by dropping it than electrocuting it till dead!! :lol: :lol:
SS
bwa, first, make no mistake, that this was in no w... (show quote)


A mirrorless camera's sensor is simply exposed to the elements most of the time and not hidden behind a closed shutter (and mirror) as it is in a DSLR. Also, most camera manufacturers recommend turning off a camera before changing lenses to reduce dust problems, per Nikon USA's recommendations:
http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/g7jz8rrr/getting-started-how-to-change-a-d-slr-lens.html and their comment:
"... make sure you turn the camera's power off before changing the lens as the image sensor itself generates a static electric charge that can attract dust." Canon and Sony state much the same thing and I know from personal experience I get a whole lot more dust stuck to the sensor if I change lenses with the power on.

I don't suspect changing lenses will "electrocuting it (the camera) till dead". At least all my cameras are still running after changing lens, batteries & memory cards without first turning off the power.

bwa
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Mar 6, 2015 19:41:47   #
SharpShooter wrote:
bwa, though I'm sure on a certain level you're right, dust is not an army looking for a weakness so it can storm your sensor.
To all the sensor paranoids, DO consider the fact that the dust does first have to have an opposite charge. Then many cameras have a mirror in the way. Then, ALL cameras have a light-proof shutter. Light-proof means its pretty well sealed to dust as well. Most cameras have an AA filter. Is the AA filter a conductor, or does it actually insulate? Then, consider the fact that if star trails is NOT the ONLY thing you shoot, that your shutter remains closed most of the time. So when you snap the shot, and only when you snap the shot, is the shutter ever open to expose the sensor area. Sometimes this is as brief as a 1/8000th of a second. Let's average it at 1/500th second. That is not a lot of time for the dust army to mobilize itself and attack your sensors. Just because you are an extremely paranoid pessimist, does not alter what really happens in the real world.
Just because you don't fully understand something, doesn't make it so!
Change your lenses or buy a body for every lens you own, whatever floats your dingy.
The fact remains that statistically, hot-swapping and dust is just NOT a problem.
I'm not here to tell anyone to change their ways, just DON'T make it out to be more than it really is!! ;-)
SS
bwa, though I'm sure on a certain level you're rig... (show quote)


You may have missed the fact I stated "mirrorless" camera. Most of the things you state apply nicely to a DSLR but don't apply to mirrorless, i.e.: no mirror, the shutter is open most of the time. Before you go showing your "expertise" on mirrorless cameras it would be nice if you at least looked at one!

And I do believe "Just because you don't fully understand something, doesn't make it so!" applies more to you than me... How about reading posts before showing your total lack of knowledge!?

bwa
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Mar 6, 2015 16:27:34   #
Architect1776 wrote:
I saw two photos taken with the Canon 5DS and I am guessing a Canon lens for demonstration by Canon. Many of you might have seen these and I am attaching one of them. It appears to me that the lens used was up to handling the 50MP sensor with no trouble.


All of Canon's (full frame) lenses should easily handle a 50 MPixel full frame sensor. The pixels are the same size as those on the 7D II, 4.1 micron... So shouldn't be a problem.

bwa
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Mar 6, 2015 16:21:15   #
chapjohn wrote:
I would politley suggest that reading your manual will helpful. Sony has put 1.4x and 2.0x buttons on the camera. This is so any lens can be extended without additional gear.


Never as good as the real thing!

bwa
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Mar 6, 2015 16:19:11   #
BeachLady wrote:
... Tamron 18-200, and 150-600...


Add a 1.4x teleconverter to the mix. Won't break the bank and would work nicely with both the Tamron's.

bwa
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Mar 6, 2015 16:15:50   #
If you're using a mirrorless camera, swapping lenses with the sensor active will probably result in extra dust motes being included in your images BUT other than that swap away!

bwa
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Mar 6, 2015 16:04:37   #
I'm not too sure what truly defines a fish-eye lens? I think I have several that I use on full frame cameras:

- Opteka 6.5mm. Gives at least 180 deg. coverage and almost a full round image. Good image quality.
(https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/6095772041072342546?pid=6095772041072342546&oid=116260312230579398213 &
https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/6095770781912520290?pid=6095770781912520290&oid=116260312230579398213)

- Bower 8mm. Would probably give 180 deg. coverage if it wasn't for the nonremovable lens hood. Newer versions of this lens have a removable lens hood. The newer version may be the same lens as the Opteka 6.5mm?? Good image quality.
(Crop mode: https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/5734903303516973794?pid=5734903303516973794&oid=116260312230579398213 &
Full Frame: https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/5958551740414463106?pid=5958551740414463106&oid=116260312230579398213)

- Tamron 10-24mm zoom. Designed for crop mode but is an interesting lens on full frame if you ignore the edges/corners. Not recommended for full frame usage but reasonable image quality.
(https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/6115418976044455442?pid=6115418976044455442&oid=116260312230579398213)

- Samyang 14mm. Real wide-field; bordering on fish-eye. Good image quality.
(https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/6119591628600318914?pid=6119591628600318914&oid=116260312230579398213)

- Canon FD 15mm f2.8. Real wide-field; bordering on fish-eye. Built-in filters. Good image quality and a fun lens.
https://plus.google.com/photos/116260312230579398213/albums/5526561973500317537/5983860425191621970?pid=5983860425191621970&oid=116260312230579398213)

I like all of the Samyang/Rokinon/Bower/Opteka/Whatever/Korean lens and have their 6.5, 8, 14, 24, 35 & 85mm primes. Sometimes their quality control is a little lacking but in all cases(2) where I've had problems the lenses have been exchanged for ones that work well.

bwa
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Mar 5, 2015 23:56:04   #
BobHartung wrote:
Hi all. I am considering the purchase of the Sony A7R as a first step in downsizing the weight of my kit. I had a chance to try one in a recent workshop but have a couple of questions.

1. The shutter noise seems too loud. Perhaps this is simply my comparing in to the D810 I shoot. As a user, do you find it obnoxious?

2. There is not image stabilization. Have you noticed this as a real drawback? (Probably not as important a point for me as I do mainly landscape photography on a tripod.)

3. How well do the lens adaptors work? Are there any major considerations that I should know before jumping off the cliff? I would initially purchase only the 50mm Sony/Zeiss lens and otherwise use my Nikon lenses.

4. Does anyone have any serious information on the rumored Sony A9 series that was thought to be in the pipeline for early 2015?

This will be my first foray into the mirrorless world except for a very old Canon P&S.

As an addendum:
5) Do any of the Sony E-Mount lenses come with a lens shade? The web site is sketchy on this topic.
Hi all. I am considering the purchase of the Sony... (show quote)


Many options for Sony A7 series cameras. I've owned both the A7S and A7R since they were released and like them both for specific usage. In summary:

- A7S(ensitivity) Best low light performance of any existing camera. 12 MPixel sensor. 4K video w/ an external recorder.

- A7 & A7 II General purpose 24 MPixel sensor. This camera would be (will be) my everyday grab-n-go camera.

- A7R(esolution) 36 MPixel sensor. Great resolution for larger prints and aggressive cropping.

1) A7R shutter noise is not worse than my Canon cameras. But if you want a totally silent camera, look at the A7S which can operate in Silent Shutter mode, although in this mode the captured files are lower bit level. Electronic 1st shutter is also quieter since you only get the "click" at the end of the exposure.

2) If I use Canon lenses with internal image stabilization, I get IS using electronic adapters on Sony A7 series cameras. Of course the new A7 II have built-in 5 axis image stabilization, i.e.: IS with any lens mounted. I haven't found the lack of IS with manual lenses or telescopes a major drawback.

Shooting the A7R off a tripod requires a good solid mount. Shutter vibration has been reported. I haven't had problems but it apparently does exist. This problem does not exist with electronic 1st shutter or in silent shutter mode; however, the A7R doesn't have either.

3) Most well known adapters work very well (some of the cheap chinese knock-offs are, well, "cheap"!). I use Metabones III, King and Commlite adapters with Canon lenses. All these adapters allow full automatic operation but autofocus is SLOW! Not too sure what is available in the line of automatic adapters for Nikon lenses. I adapt Canon FD & EF, Pentax, Minolta, M42, T2, Tamron & Sigma lenses to the Sony A7 series cameras with good success.

4) Lots of rumors WRT Sony's next full frame mirrorless. When it arrives we'll know what it is... I suspect it will be a higher resolution A7R with a few tweaks to get rid of A7R complaints? Maybe 5 axis stabilization? I doubt it will silent shutter but could have electronic 1st shutter? The A9 may also be a full pro model with weatherproofing, etc.. If so, expect a considerably higher cost.

5) I have the Sony 28-70mm and 70-200mm zooms. Both came with lens hoods.

Hard decision(s) ahead. Good luck.

bwa
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Mar 4, 2015 21:22:34   #
MTG44 wrote:
What a neat place. When was it built?

http://www.llanberis.com/dolbad.html
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Mar 4, 2015 21:04:01   #
n3eg wrote:
It's particularly bad in old CCTV C-mount lenses that have been exposed to the elements. I have trashpicked a few at work that had lime "bathtub ring" on the front element. Definitely not repairable, as it destroys the coating.

I picked up an ol' C-mount Canon TV Zoom Lens (V10x15), 15-150mm, for close to nothing. The rubber was long gone and it was missing the back mount ring but the glass was in excellent condition. A bit of cleaning, added some LENSband's for grips, had a friend of mine mill a new mount ring and it works very nicely with a couple of Chameleon CCD's I use. It is also a fun lens on a DSLR; a bit of vignetting (ok, a lot of vignetting!), but interesting nonetheless.
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Mar 4, 2015 19:39:43   #
waegwan wrote:
for what it is worth, I have opened lenses (simple manual lenses) with haze and fungus and cleaned them and reassembled them and they are fine for my standards.

And it is a fun hobby!
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Mar 3, 2015 16:04:51   #
twillsol wrote:
Canon Pixma Pro 100, you can get a great deal on this printer. Bought mine and 50 sheets of 13 x 19 paper for $400.00, with a $100.00 rebate on the paper and $250.00 rebate on the printer. Paid $50.00 for the printer and paper after rebates. It does a great job.


I don't own this printer but a number of people in our local camera club do and they love it!
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Mar 3, 2015 15:58:29   #
A bit of history to go with your great pictures:
http://www.llanberis.com/dolbad.html
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Mar 3, 2015 15:40:38   #
If you're a tinkerer, old / hazy / foggy /smoky lenses are a lot of fun to restore. You can buy them for next to nothing and with a few days work (mainly in realignment during reassembly) you might have a decent lens.

I stick to manual lenses since I don't really wish to get into disassembling / reassembling the electronic bits and pieces.

I have a couple of Canon FD lenses, an ol' Pentax lens and a very nice Televue 102 telescope that now work nicely and were, at one time, considered junk.

bwa
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Nov 22, 2014 18:51:46   #
SharpShooter wrote:
Cholly, who CARES what the ISO of any camera is.

I know you're jesting and trying to get a response. Slow day I suppose?

Ever tried astrophotography or nightscape photography with a camera having a max. of ISO 400? Do try it sometime then answer your question...
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