I believe CHOLLY was meaning to say that he should shoot the moon, let the moon move out of the picture, and then shoot the buildings. I think this is more difficult to do versus just doing a separate shot of the moon and building and then merging them.

I know it looks like no vignetting, but there is some that is just not as noticeable. When I read an article on the first Canon at either 16 or 18 Mpx, the pros were complaining about how much darker the corners were compared to film. It was being caused by the light not going straight into the pixels at the corners of the sensor (sensor vignetting).The article indicated that the solution from Canon at the time was to process the image as it came off the sensor to electronically lighten the corners to get the image back to "film vignetting" before sending the image to the memory chip. Does Canon and/or Olympus still do this? I don't know but it is possible to do so in this day and age.

The reason for the lower vignetting is due to the lens design. Almost all 4/3rds lenses will have a last lens element of ~25mm. This is the same size as the image circle. Since the the 4/3rds manufacturers started the format from scratch, they designed the light from the lens to come out of the last element 90° to the sensor even in the corners. There is no "sensor vignetting" caused by the light trying to enter the individual pixel at an angle at the edge of the sensor. There is very little that can be done to correct this in full frame cameras (not that it necessarily needs to be corrected). To make the lenses like the 4/3rds design, the last elements in a full frame lens would have to be 48mm. This would require a lot larger lens along with a larger mount on the camera body. This would require an adaptor for older pro lenses, more cost, etc. Like you have indicated, they will develop a curved sensor to allow the light at the edges of the full frame sensors to be received more directly. That would be a lot more cost effective and not alienate the pros while improving the format.

Pam, you have been provided nothing but good advice. I agree that a stairway shot is best in wide angle. But if you are in a tall one with wide base, try using both the tripod and the 50mm for a different point of view. One can always lay on their back on the floor if allowed or necessary. The fun in lighthouses is even if they are similar on the outside, they can be very different on the inside. Our grandchildren, my wife, and I have a lot of fun with lighthouses. The grandchildren and I always climb to the top with me taking the pictures along the way. My wife stays at the bottom after seeing inside the base so she can take a picture of the crazy people waving at her from the top. Hope you have as much fun as we have had.

If the sensor is a 16 mp, whether it smaller than 4/3rds or as large as medium format, and the light level has not been exceeded for the sensor's abilities, one can do with a 16 mp picture whatever one can do. Yes, the smaller sensors will have smaller pixels which will affect their low light abilities and possibly the the overall HDR dynamics. With the shooting conditions relatively the same, the higher quality sensors will take a good picture no matter what the format size of the sensor is.

It probably isn't true in this case, but I remember a monthly club contest where the judge noticed a very, very small edge of cliff in the bottom left corner of a great picture of the Royal Gorge Bridge (a slide club in the before digital days). She judged it second saying, "If you could have only stepped forward another foot and moved the cliff out of the picture, it would have taken first place." What she didn't know was he had been leaning over the guard rail while being counter weighted by his wife to keep him from going 1000 feet to the bottom of the canyon. It probably was possible for her to back up, but only she would know if that would have put her in the bull pen with the bull!

This has never happened to me! Wait! Is my nose getting longer?

As has been indicated, it depends on the camera's system or format. Olympus' 35mm full frame fisheye was a 16mm lens. Now that Olympus has gone to the smaller 4/3rds format, the full frame fisheye is an 8mm lens. For Hasselblad, a 2 1/4 medium format and larger than either the 35mm and 4/3rds formats, the full frame fisheye lens was their 30mm. Also, "full frame fisheye" means that the image circle diameter produced by the lens is the size of the diagonal of the sensor. It is at the diagonal that the 180 degrees is displayed. The horizonal and vertical displayed angles are less than 180 degrees.

Kymarto, I don't shoot news and only some of my grandkid's sports. But I have done some travel and hotel shooting for my wife. Starting at 9 in the morning, I can count on throwing my second battery in the camera about 5 or 6 in the afternoon. I do set the timer for power save. But once I press the button, the viewfinder will be available before I can get the camera to my eye. It's not the same as for the pros doing the news and sports for a living, but it does give an idea as to how well power system is set up. It is only a matter of time before the EVFs get even better.

Just remember, I still love my Hasselblad and it has an OVF. Do not expect me to sell it anytime soon. It might become available sometime after I am dead.

Kymarto, some of the new mirrorless cameras, like the E-M1, now have EVFs with refresh rates of 120fps. You are are right, slow refresh rates do drive one batty. I beleive the refresh rate in my E-M5 is 60fps and does not cause me any problems.

ametha has outlined the answer to your situation fairly accurately. The main thing you need to ask yourself is if this shaking is all the time or only when you drink. If it is happening all the time, you might want both the monopod that ametha suggests and the VR for the lense.

ametha, I never thought about the "adds optical and physical elements". Although I would have assumed the manufactures would have compensation optically for the in lens' VR system, maybe it is not as perfect a system as I think it to be optically. If one really thinks about it, the shifting of a lens element corrects for one big optical problem (blur) at the minor optical cost in sharpness. What also interesting about this particular problem is that doesn't exist for in body stabilization systems. In camera systems shift the sensor back in front of the image coming from the lens. Although it is not a perfect system either, it will result in a different identifiable image alteration.

I agree that pros know their equipment very well. But if one thinks about that, they needed to learn the equipment when it went from film to digital and have had to do the same as the digital cameras progressed to today cameras. You are right in that at this time, the EVFs would require an extra battery or two to meet pro needs. But they will get better both in terms of power usage and imaging abilities. The lag between sensor and viewfinder is not really that much different than the mirror flipping up and down. And, in the near future, the mirror's ability to only flip up and down at 10 or 15 times a second will be a disadvantage compared to a mirrorless camera's 30 to 60 frames a second. And as the lenses get replaced by the smaller and lighter ones with equal abilities, the pairings will not seen so lopsided. And I have setup my EVF such that it is fairly easy to determine my contrast for my pictures. I thank this site for teaching me what "blinkies" are, which I formally used. But I have trained my eye to know the contrast level I am seeing in my EVF now. One can see the contrast levels in an EVF if they want to.

And as far as controls, even on my "old" E-M5 I am only two touches away from over 90% of all camera functions and 98% or 99% with one more touch. I can set two function buttons to automatically go to their presets instantly (I haven't even set them since the controls are easy to use). And two dials within fingers reach of the shutter button to alter manual, program, aperture, and shutter modes on the fly without letting go of the camera (don't even have to remove my eye from the EVF and I am left eyed). The only control that I have a problem with on the E-M5 is the video mode button - its too easy to accidentally turn on. Does anyone think that Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, and others are going to allow their products to be less convenient than Olympus?

And I fully agree with you about full resolution video cameras taking a lot of the future market, especially in the pro end market. A pro cannot miss shots and expect to remain competitive. Anything that might give one an edge over the competition will be used. And if getting that one "still" frame from that 60 or 100 fps will get them what they need, you can bet that they will do it.

I think in time you will start to see mirrorless entering the upper pro scene, especially from Sony. A lot of the pros will use the company's equipment, and most of the company's equipment is going to be Nikon and Canon because of lenses. And not because they are that much better than the new lenses being produced now days. The investment in lenses is costly so it makes sense and cents to upgrade only the body as the cameras improve. But at some point in time, the lenses and the body will need to be replaced due to wear and tear. At that point in time, if Sony has all its ducks in a row, the start of the mirrorless cameras into the pro ranks will be seen. And it definitely will not be an overnight change. There may be even an influx of some 4/3rds into more nitch type markets. In the one video cited earlier in this subject thread, the tested four mirrorless cameras did not match the overall abilities of the D4s, but the people testing them were surprised as to how much closer the four cameras abilities have come compared to the D4s. They even implied that eventually the difference in abilities will not warrant paying the much greater cost. Will the mirrorless cameras totally replace pro cameras in the near future? Absolutely not. But they will eventually.

I agree with you on this one. There are so many times I have to use my knowledge to alter settings to get the picture.