How about "getting it right" AND shooting in RAW? That way, all camera info is tagged with the image (non destructive) and applied on opening requiring far less (if any) editing while retaining complete sensor information. The fact is, it is the best of both worlds and covers your you know what.

I am an old film photographer new to digital and it comes as natural that this is how it SHOULD be done. I only use jpeg's for expendable "snapshots" or to fill the role of a Polaroid preview.

I had one I used with a Nikkormat FT2. The non AI lenses coupled to the meter with the "rabbit ears" on the aperture ring, to a pin on the camera of the Nikon F, F2 and Nikkormat series of Cameras. You probably should not try to mount it. AI lenses have a ridge on the backside of the aperture ring that couples with a tab on the camera on all later MF cameras beginning with the FM, FE, F3 and all later film cameras. The problem is, with cameras that have the AI "tab". The aperture ring on non AI lenses don't have clearance for the tab and can damage the tab and coupling on the camera. The early AI cameras, original FM, original FE, if memory serves me, along with the F3 and most later Pro models, the tab could be unlocked and lifted out of the way to utilize non-AI lenses. All other Nikons the tab was fixed and you were not supposed to use non-AI lenses. The reality was, on my FE2 some non AI lenses would definitely jam the tab and you wouldn't want to "lock" the lens in the mount in fear of damage to the camera aperture coupling, however with some non AI lenses, I found they would just clear the tab (barely) and I'll admit to cheating the rules with a couple of non AI lenses and use them on occasion. That said, I wouldn't want to be the one to tell anyone to try it.

Now, what I don't know is this, I don't believe your 5100 couples the meter with AI lenses. I believe only the 2 and 3 digit Nikon dslr's do (possibly the 7100). Which in turn, would mean your lens mount most likely does not have an AI tab to get damaged. That said, with all the electrical contacts for auto focus etc in the camera body I wouldn't attempt to mess around with it, it just isn't worth it. I think I only paid about $20 for that lens back in the early '80's. I never tested it critically but it was on the soft and flat side unless you stopped it down. I loaned it out once and never got it back. I didn't miss it.

I'm sort of an "odd man out" here, but my first thought in that situation would always be, "can I fix it?". If the flip ups are anything like those on my Bogen 3221 they would be easy to change IF they can be had. After all, the bulk of components in a tripod such as the tubing and most of the metal parts don't go bad. I recently came across a few places that do stock tripod parts. I could help search if I knew what you have. If parts can be had and the price isn't bad, you might consider replacing any/all that don't feel perfect. Not only would it probably be cheaper then a new equivalent, you'd also be keeping an "old friend".

My Bogen is in mint condition from the '80's, as I am now getting back into photography I just recently pulled it from it's 25 year rest in the closet, went over it lubing all joints and pivots and made a mental note to keep an eye on those flip ups as they do have plastic parts. Age may or may not have had an effect on them but I've learned enough to keep an eye on that sort of thing rather then leave it to chance.

There is no reason to believe his being a Vet is any more honest then the rest of his postings.

Well, I still can't discern what it is you want to learn first. Having said that, the advice I'll give pertains to self teaching, which is something I have a lot of experience with on many fronts, including photography. This may be the route you will need to take to at least "get your feet wet". Training, or study is only as good as what you come away with.

"Every journey begins with a first step", you need to determine what YOUR first step needs to be. How much do you already understand about exposure? Your camera controls? Assuming you at least know some basics, you need to start with mini "projects", a single photo, any photo that you see as not being "up to snuff". From there, you address each issue YOU see (one at a time), first determining WHAT is wrong, then focusing all your attention on THAT particular issue determining WHY it is out of kilter, then focus on what it takes to CORRECT the issue in post processing. From there you will have an understanding, or at least an idea, of what you need to do about setting up the camera before taking the shot so you can then focus your attention on learning exactly how to go about doing that. There is a plethora information available on any one subject in books or on the internet. You will learn a ton along the way. Once "you know" the problem, even your camera manual becomes a powerful tool. The only way to actually "learn" is to actually tackle each problem by itself, without "jumping around". By working this way, you will learn what it is you "need to know" without filling your head with with stuff soon forgotten. In time, EVERYTHING will begin to fall into place and YOU will actually understand it, freeing you to move on to higher levels of knowledge learned by the same process.

What's important to know in using manual focus lenses with various Nikon dslr bodies is whether the camera will couple with the camera meter. This is something I researched carefully before getting a dslr. Your d3200 will NOT meter with the manual focus lens, unless it happens to be an AI-P which I don't think you have. The lens will mount and can be used, but you will not have any light metering which is a real "bug in the soup" for practical usage. Generally, all 2 and 3 digit model Nikon dslrs plus the 7100 WILL meter with manual focus lenses except the real old non AI models. Do a search and you can get a lot of info. Also, make sure the lens you have is NOT a pre AI lens before you try to mount it or you could do damage to the camera, another bugaboo if you are not aware.