When you say "remote viewing," how remote do you mean? Will you be near the camera to frequently guide it and just look at the image on a notebook computer while sitting in the shade, or stay back in the house with the camera some distance away?
Some issues:
(1) The solar filter is only good for before and after totality. For the four minutes of totality, you'll have to remove the solar filter, and may also need to refocus.
(2) If you want a decent view of the corona during totality, you'll need at least a 300mm lens for a full-frame camera, or better a 500mm or 600mm lens. With the same lens you plan to use, try taking a photo of the moon, which is about the same apparent size as the sun, to see how big the sun will appear in your photo. During totality, the corona may extend over one solar diameter or more on each side.
Alternatively, you could use a wide angle lens -- say 35mm -- to take a series of photos with the camera on the tripod, and let the sun move across the frame over the couple of hours of the whole eclipse, then make a composite to see all of the eclipse from first contact to totality through last contact. Practice this several days beforehand, just to see how to angle the camera frame along the sun's path. In two hours, the sun moves about 30°.
(3) For remote viewing where you are not present to guide the camera, it needs to be on a sturdy tripod and a tracking mount, to follow the sun because of Earth's rotation. The sun moves about ½° (its own diameter) every two minutes. The tracker needs to be set up with its rotational axis parallel to Earth's axis (pointing near the star Polaris). Difficult to do in the daytime. You could set it up at night, cover it, and then use it in the daytime. If you get a tracking mount (several hundred $), practice a lot before the big event.
Some examples:
https://www.moveshootmove.com/collections/move-shoot-move-rotator/products/msm-rotator-for-star-tracking-time-lapse-panorama-photography?variant=21144679022669&aff=198The Move-Shoot-Move tracker is good for shorter focal-length lenses, but inaccurate or slips for long (heavy) focal-length lenses
Better for a heavier camera/lens:
https://www.skywatcherusa.com/products/star-adventurer-mini-pro-pack(4) During totality, there is a huge variation in brightness from the little pink prominences on the sun's limb, to the inner corona, to the outer corona. You'll need several exposures at different durations to capture all parts of it. For example, a series of seven exposures from 1/500 sec. at f/11 to ¼ sec. at f/11, at ISO 1200 could get all the parts. You could then combine the series into a composite. To do that remotely, you'd need software that controls the camera.
If you are not planning to take photos, but just watch the eclipse on the remote computer, you'll still need some way to guide the camera and remove the solar filter during totality, and change the exposure for the live view. If there is any way you could be outside on the center line during totality, maybe with binoculars, that will give you by far the best view and experience. There are many things that go on during an eclipse, from the darkening of the sky, to stars and planets coming out, to crescent-shaped images projected on the ground through tree leaves, to strange moving shadows, to quieting of animal noises. It can be an emotional experience.
Good luck.
When you say "remote viewing," how remot... (