This is how you spell my country: Colombia.
Col u mbia is the university.
Images 2 and 4 show alot of clarity and detail, suggesting that your issue is optical in nature. Suspect #1 is the lens optical alignment. Did it by chance bounce around in your bag? That could throw one of the lens groups off.
Hi, I'll lell you how I do it and maybe it'll shed light on your issue.
I installed the app "Photo Transfer" on my cell phone (Andoid) and on my desktop PC (OS: Windows 10).i open the app on my pbone and follow the instructions.
Note: the transfer format is usually "jpg".
You rock, back lighting is your art.
Keep the beautifully lit imaging coming.
The term has no rules.
It may apply to various stages of image making. (capture, post processing, prentation). The creative process factors into it, but is by far not the only ingredient in the sauce.
The terms "Artistic Photography" and "Creative Photography" have been loosely used interchangeably so frequently that its true meaning has been watered down significantly.
Very tastefully done. You undestand back lighting well.
The third image rocks (for me).
Don't get me wrong, I like all 4 of them.
Lovely shot.
It inspires introspection.
Patience at work.
Hi Starlifter,
You sound like an occasional Focus Stacker (fs) so both Zerene and Helicon are good but cost-prohibitive.
More on your vein is Affinity Photo. It is excellent for fs, panoramas, HDR, image blending and astrophotography (and more).
It is both a prametric editor (Develop persona) and a raster editor.
In terms of cost, it is cost-effective, and a one-time only purchase.
In terms of shooting, see if your camera does "Postfocusing" where you create a video file and later (in camera or on PC) you extract a stack of various images that you can merge into a fs image in your preferred editor.
cspear42 wrote:
I've searched this discussion and I could not find anything recent on a comparison of Affinity Photo vs. Classic Lightroom. I have used Classic LR in the past and I have a trial version of Affinity and was curious if there are opinions out there concerning pros and cons and which one you would recommend. I am a novice to photography and pp. Thank you.
The two editors are fundamentally different.
LR is a Parametric editor only. AP is a raster AND a parametric editor (develop persona).
A much closer comparison would be between Photoshop and AP.
I would suggest you set a editing goal, and see which of these three editors meet or surpass your expectations.
Two common denominators are PC computational power and storage space.
Good luck with your advanced research.
RadArt wrote:
I need to enlarge small paintings, c. 20"x30". to 14 ft. on the short size. Usually take 9 to 15 shots but my 135 Zeiss won't get close enough. What should I use- a telephoto? Please help I'm a painter not a real photographer. Thanks, Rad
Hi I agree with Fezler. One thing to consider besides the optical distortion avoided with Macro lenses is the color temperature of your lighting on your painting, you may want to consider diffused daylight while avoiding harsh reflections.
Enjoy the journey - actually we are all image-makers, with photographers using light as its medium.
wannabe63 wrote:
In October of this year, my wife and I will be joining a tour group to Egypt hitting the usual popular spots in Cairo, Luxor, Valley of the Kings, River Cruise on the Nile, etc. We will also be going to Petra in Jordan. As my everyday go to equipment I plan on using a Nikon D750 with Nikkor 28-300 f3.5-5.6, and a Nikkor 16-35 f4 lenses.
1st question concerns the camera settings while inside the tombs. I'm guessing that the lighting will be different in each tomb so settings will be critical and change in each tomb. In order to cover most situations I was thinking of setting the camera to shutter priority at 200, auto WB, turn on auto-ISO set to minimum of 100 to maximum of 6400. What are your thoughts? Any other specific settings?
2nd question relates to the entire tour in general. What filters would you recommend?
3rd - I would like to get a shot of the Milky Way with a pyramid, sphinx or something Egyptian in the foreground. I will be using a tripod and a Rokinon 14mm f2.8 lens. For those that have been there, and assuming the right conditions, no light pollution exist, do you think this is doable?
Stay tuned. I may have more questions as they come to mind.
Thanks for your input.
In October of this year, my wife and I will be joi... (
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Good news-have a great trip.
Some of the tombs are not well lit and those that are have fluorescent lighting. Try to use auto white balance. DEFINETLY take a good headlamp. The texture and detail will make you pause.
Filters: A good CPL will cover you both in abundant and poor light.
History: familiarize yourself with both the history, terminology and geography. You'll be two steps ahead of the game.
Take a good lens cleaner. [Microfiber cloths and lens wipes.]
CAUTION: many strangers will offer to "take your picture" with your camera.---DON'T. It is never free, and you might not see your camera again. It sounds silly to say it but its the convincing smiles that persuade you to do the unthinkable.
Enjoy the trip and the spiritual journey.
Royce Moss wrote:
Hey Hoggers stilll decideing on a low cost photo editor for simple edits. organizing and sharing. Don't want Lightroom or Photoshop and Google Photos suck. I was happy with Picasa. Looking at ACDSEE looks promising. Anyone have an opinion on it? Thanks
Hey Royce, I use ACDsee for its amazing Data Asset Manager (DAM) which is unparalleled, and it is a decent editor.
That's great work. Did you use a Polarizing filter?
DawnM wrote:
I'm having a hard time with flowers blowing in the wind when I'm too close to use auto focus on my Canon RP. I typically use the EF 100mm macro lens. I'm too blind for diopter adjustments to do me any good, so I rely on focus peaking to get the job done, yet often I miss focus on these because even a slight breeze will cause the flower to move.
I absolutely love this shot except that I was aiming for the center of the flower and it caught the edge of the center, not the center. I'm going to run it through Topaz, but I realize even Topaz can't perform miracles, so I have little hope of saving the shot.
What's the solution for this?
I'm having a hard time with flowers blowing in the... (
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Compositionally speaking this is a great shot. But I see what you mean.
You have Four options at your disposal:
1-You mentioned, PP Topaz Sharpen AI.
2-PP Focus stacking.
3-Burst shooting.
4-Macro Flash.
If none of the above are possible, I suggest you shoot at about 300 ISO (because the DOF is quite shallow) which will afford you a faster Shutter speed with a Macro lens.