Shoot RAW, then you can concentrate on focus, composition and timing. To a great extent, RAW will allow you to concentrate on things your camera cannot always do for itself, then refine exposure and white balance in PP. Focus should be on the eyes, composition includes angles, pose, smiles, harsh shadows etc, and timing means catching exactly the right moment. Try the same shots with and without fill flash. If this is really important to you and you may not be able to reshoot, make sure you have something "in the can" before you experiment too much. Basic good quality insurance shots may help avoid total disappointment.
I have found that my camera with a 1" sensor allows for more cropping than my camera with a 1/2" sensor. When shooting with the 1/2" sensor I frame as tightly as possible so cropping is minimized.
Sit down, sit back and enjoy the ride. If the photos are a priority, in a canoe I recommend you take the front seat and let someone else paddle. Take along a couple of very large zip-lock bags and keep your equipment sealed when not in use. A good zip-lock bag will even provide a few seconds of total submersion protection in the event things go wrong. Expect gators.
I always return my cameras to "P" before I turn them off. Too many opportunities have been missed to leave the cameras on anything else.
dalekohl wrote:
Lens on the fz1000 goes from 2.8 to 4. Fz 300 is 2.8 throughout its length
True, but the FZ1000 has a larger sensor. I have the FZ1000 and the ZS50, a very good 1/2" sensor for walkabout, and probably comparable to the FZ300. With good light JPEG images from the FZ1000 and FZ300 may be similar, but with less than good light, the FZ1000 is far better. Still, the weather sealing in the FZ300 is an advantage, and it is $200 cheaper.
johnpolizzi wrote:
The primary issue with most point & shoot cameras is the small sensor size. I would consider something like the Fuji X-A3 with an APSC size sensor. It's small and the kit lens gives about a 24-70 equivalent viewpoint. It's about $599.
Africa! I am not sure I would want a 24-70 in Africa.
I recently switched from a DSLR to the Panasonic FZ1000. While I think I miss the "feel" of a DSLR, the FZ1000 has a number of advantages. It is about the same size so holding it is easy, it goes to f2.8 zoomed all the way back, and is still fairly fast zoomed in to 400mm. The electronic view finder, which I use 100%, is big and bright, and the electronic zoom feels a lot like a manual zoom. The 1" sensor gives results that rival a DSLR most of the time, especially when starting with RAW. On the other hand, it is not weather (and dust) sealed, mine delivers a weird circular bokeh on occasion (similar to a mirror lens) and many DSLR users look down on it (if you would care)
A simple difference of opinion. Try KEH
Many to pick from on Amazon. I found one I really like for about $15.
Something is amiss. I have a rather ordinary HP desktop with only 8 g RAM, and it runs Elements 15 with no problem. The only delay I notice is downloading RAW files, 3 seconds rather than 1, and some of the built-it specialty features such as shake reduction. Try opening the task manager and see what other programs/applications are running. When I experience a slowdown I have found things such as Amazon photos running. Why I never figured out, but if I end the task the delay goes away.
Just about any desktop you see today will run Elements with no problem. Speed or RAM is rarely an issue as the operator is the controlling factor, and editing is a relatively slow process, even when processing RAW. I use a five year old HP with 8G ram and it runs Elements just fine. Save a little money for an external hard drive, or the soon to be seen urge for more equipment.
My first photography instructor (in 1968) emphasized getting something "in the can", referring to those little cans film came in, before getting artsy/craftsy. Which ever way you go, make sure you bring something nice home, even if you have to start with full auto. Yes, f8 will give greater depth of field, but most lenses are sharpest at f4 to f5.6. If you go with a smaller sensor the depth of field will be really wide anyway. Your first park visit (especially the Kingdom) will be frantic, with everyone trying to see as much as possible as quickly as possible. A small pocket or holster camera will be really nice, and even essential if you go on the rides. You can always schedule a second visit without the drama and take a larger camera then.
If someone is looking at a lens for $200-$300, I question the value of advice recommending lenses selling for over $1,000.
People have been selling manual f8, 500mm t-mount lenses for decades. I know because I still have one I bought in Saigon in 1968 for $10. I now use it with a Pentax mount on a K70. Contrary to many opinions, you can get images good enough to share with friends. They are more useful with digital cameras than film because you can review your practice shots and quickly make adjustments. I have never tried a zoom version but would not expect it to be very good. If a very long zoom is desired I would suggest a small sensor super-zoom will be a whole lot more useful than a cheap lens on a DSLR.