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Posts for: natureslight
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Sep 18, 2020 17:10:37   #
My son said the same thing, he thought it was a painting. Thank you
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Sep 18, 2020 14:37:11   #
Near Deming New Mexico. HDR photo taken 9-16-20


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Jul 31, 2019 19:56:01   #
Novicus wrote:
Indeed , I too, wholeheartedly thank Everyone for their time and Patience ,and certainly for their Ability to explain things so that even i can understand.

Having knowledge is one thing, being Able to Convey said knowledge is a different matter, ..as I have tried, asked and still had trouble understanding the bits and pieces of Info gathered here and there , yet , now finally getting an Inkling of steps to take.

So, if I understand Correctly,...Set/ Use Recording Equipment ( Camera /Lenses etc. ) to Highest Standard.

Which means TIFF on Camera and then Downscale to a practical size with which the Computer/Printer is Comfortable with ( being able to cope within its capacity )

Said in darkroom terms : Start with a large negative..well exposed ..correctly developed etc., so as to be able , even after Cropping ,to produce an A3 in Utmost Quality.

Now, do i Need to resort to TIFF ( slowing camera severely ..nikon D3s / D3X ) or could I get away with NEF ( Nikon RAW format ) converted / scaled down accordingly using Nikon Capture NXD ,...or even Jpeg ERI ( Kodak Jpeg format ...Kodak SlrN ) using Photodesk.

I apologise to natureslight if I appear to be hi-jacking his posting as such is not my intent, it is just that my take is only slightly different as I intend to " do printing myself " as opposed to his wanting to "have it done", for I could Not afford otherwise.

Thanks a million :-)
Indeed , I too, wholeheartedly thank Everyone for ... (show quote)

Not at all, learn all you can. Good luck.
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Jul 30, 2019 21:21:53   #
burkphoto wrote:
The purists’ views are often misguided, because math seldom tells the whole story when it comes to visual perception. When you work in a lab that makes millions of prints from thousands of photographers’ work, you start to see the patterns and ‘practicals’ of photography.

High bit depth is most useful during image capture and manipulation. Once a 16-bit image is adjusted to look right, conversion to 8-bit loses little *perceivable* information.

Where printing from 16-bit files in wide gamut color space is useful, is in the high end, “giclee” inkjet world, and in certain advertising applications where matching a saturated logo color or product color is required by a finicky client.

The best scenario for doing that would be in a photo studio where the wide format Epson or Canon printer is connected to a computer running Lightroom and Photoshop.

The camera is also tethered to that computer, and the environment is set up for the standard print viewing conditions specified by PPA.

The image is captured, imported into Lightroom, and adjusted on a high end monitor until it looks like the product.

Any retouching or compositing is done in Photoshop.

The image is soft proofed using the profile for the printer/paper/ink combination in use. Then it is test printed directly from Lightroom through a 16-bit driver.

Finally, the print is held up against the product and compared. Tweaking ensues...

When the results are acceptable, resizing is done in On1 Resize. Then the image is printed.

That is a VERY expensive and labor intensive process.
The purists’ views are often misguided, because ma... (show quote)


That all makes good sense. Sometimes having a little bit of knowledge on a topic, helps one to know who to listen to, as there are many voices on this subject. I am listening to you, for one. Thanks
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Jul 30, 2019 07:55:48   #
Wallen wrote:
Below is an example. The bad image is actually a bigger file size than the good one below it. Quality starts at the capture. Generally speaking, even with all the software magic and user skills at post, it all goes down from there.


Thanks to you as well for all the time you've taken to help those of us who need it to understand all of this. I do think I understand most of what you've described here, but I still have a ways to go. Also, getting back to pixels, another variable is the camera sensor. Just because a sensor has more pixels, doesn't necessarily make it better as I know pixel size is a factor as well, and do you know if pixel size correlates to dynamic range for capture? Sorry, not trying to make this any more complex than it already is, just trying to understand as much as I'm capable of and you seem quite knowledgeable as well as some others in this thread. You do state "And since TIFF can be 16 bit or more, it can be a more accurate reproduction" which goes back to my original question about tiff versus jpeg. That is exactly what I thought, so when it comes to larger prints, it seems tiff would be better, yet a recent post from Burkephoto showed some samples comparing a tiff to jpegs and I could not see a difference when viewed at the correct viewing distance. However, that being said, I still here photographers saying if you want more accurate color representation, than print from tiff. So my original thoughts that the majority of these print labs only dealing with jpeg files may be correct. Either they can't or don't want to work with tiff files versus their claims of jpegs being good enough. Uhgg, not sure what to believe. Thanks again for all your help on this subject. Mark
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Jul 29, 2019 20:32:19   #
burkphoto wrote:
I was privy to a lot of information about print resolution when Kodak was guiding us from their research.

The dirty little industry “secret” is that an 8x10, viewed at 13 inches, only needs 240 original file pixels per inch to achieve extinction resolution — the point where your eye cannot see any pixels. Those pixels become dots. Different printers use different numbers and sizes of dots to make photo prints.

The myth of 300 dpi (PPI, really, because dots are used in scanners and printers, but pixels are just numbers in files) is very old. It traces back to MAGAZINE EDITORS’ requirements that an image survive 50% more enlargement if they had to make a last minute editorial decision.

You need MORE resolution for smaller prints. A 5x7 needs 300 PPI. A 16x20 is fine with 180 PPI.

But... you still need 240 PPI as minimum input to the printer driver. If you like 300, go for it. But at 50” from a 40x30, it won’t make any difference.
I was privy to a lot of information about print re... (show quote)


I really appreciate you taking the time to share all of this. I'm going to keep researching and learning about file sizing and image quality from lightroom. Thank you again for all your help. I wish I had your knowledge. Mark
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Jul 29, 2019 19:01:22   #
burkphoto wrote:
(See above)

Here is the same *cropped* 16MP image, first the original pixels as processed from raw in Lightroom to an sRGB JPEG. Original is raw converted to JPEG.

The next three are 1920x1080 pixel SECTIONS of a 40x22.5 inch, 240 PPI blow up of the image shown above. View in download at 100% and step back from your monitor (normal viewing distance for this size print is 50-75 inches! The idea here is to simulate what a viewer of this print would see at a normal viewing distance.

First is an Adobe RGB 16-bit TIFF (not sure it will display here).

Next is an sRGB 8-bit JPEG

Next is an Adobe RGB JPEG

All JPEGs are made at 100 quality in Lightroom or 12 quality in Photoshop (same actual effect, since Adobe uses different scales in each program. One point in PS = 8.5 points in Lightroom.

Note, your browser may not display the Adobe RGB files properly until you download them! This is a known issue with UHH. The color shift disappears on download, at least on the Mac running Safari.
(See above) br br Here is the same *cropped* 16MP... (show quote)


Yes, the color shift did disappear upon download [interesting]. Was the 240 ppi a choice, or is that what was produced when cropped, because it seems 300ppi would be the choice for best resolution? I'm going to study some adobe videos on file sizing for export because there are a lot of variables available in lightroom, and I don't understand all the differences, which seems to be quite complex at this point. My goal is to understand what is needed for different size prints for good resolution and color prints that will match what is on the monitor. Some say sRGB is good enough, and others say to go with Adobe RGB. After viewing your file samples I honestly couldn't see any difference. You can see a huge difference when viewing a TV with 4K resolution versus one with 1080p, so is this not the same concept with image prints? You stated earlier not to mistake file size with image quality. That is confusing as it seems more data should equal better quality images provided it was captured correctly, but your samples don't support that either, so it's obvious there is a lot to learn here. Thanks again for all your help.
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Jul 29, 2019 12:23:28   #
Nicholas DeSciose wrote:
Reed Photo Art In Denver it’s considered to be one of the top three fine art labs in the country


I'll check it out. Thank You.
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Jul 29, 2019 06:38:04   #
Novicus wrote:
As I am also confused about all this, I have done some research too, and I keep on reading that TIFF is the best option,..here`s a link to a printer called Atwood :

https://www.atwoodprint.com/resources/articles/jpgortiff.html

They say, and I quote :

" The JPEG file format has gained prominence over the past few years, in large part due to its ability to provide a fairly high-quality image at a fraction of the size of other formats, such as TIFF. Of course, that benefit comes at a cost."

I also have read about a British photog who had RAW files from a wedding shoot, and went to three print-shops, off whom none could get the colors right , especially Skin-tones, they told him they had to use conversions, for their equipment could Not read his RAW files and Advised him to submit Jpeg or better , TIFF files,....so now, I think to obtain best possible Printing results I must set my camera to TIFF,..which will slow down write times...but it should yield the best possible quality.
As I am also confused about all this, I have done ... (show quote)


Thank You.
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Jul 29, 2019 06:04:29   #
Wallen wrote:
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a sample of an actual AdobeRGB file we have sent for printing. This was printed on Duratrans (backlit color transparency film) and installed on a lightbox posterboard.

If you will download it, you can see just how small the file is compared to its print size of 99x139cm (almost 40x57 inches). If scrutinized you may be able to barely see the banding i was talking about. But all in all it was of good enough quality for normal viewing.

Do not be confused with file size and quality image. An image can be small and still be ok or gigabyte size and still be worthless.

.
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a ... (show quote)

I think what I'm confused about is print resolution. I understand what the poster burkphoto was saying about viewing distance but I'm still not quite clear on two issues. From the color profile videos I've watched, they've all said tiff files will give you better more true color images. Also, when I export my raw files [approx 23 mb] in jpeg at 100% quality and 300 dpi, they're only a 5-6mb file. An earlier poster said his 47mb raw files were exporting to over 20mb jpegs. So I'm not sure what settings he's using, I have to figure this out yet. Although I'm concerned about print resolution, I'm more concerned about getting accurate colors to my printed image as what I see on my monitor. I have an expensive monitor that supports 99% Adobe RGB and full sRGB as well as an X-Rite Display Pro calibrator, so I can achieve accurate colors on my screen. My understanding is sRGB was created for using images on the screen, so I can't yet understand how that color profile can be sufficient for rendering accurate colors in print when other color spaces are available [adobe 1998 for one], and that is what most of these labs claim. When exporting from lightroom, 16 bit files in tiff are an option, but only 8bit in jpeg. My camera captures 14 bit. I need to find a lab that can work in that color space and possibly send me a large image printed in both sRGB and Adobe RGB for comparison. Obviously I'm new to this printing game, but I'm going to keep researching this until I get it. When saying a large file can be worthless, what specifically do you mean? Are you talking about noise, dpi, white balance? Thanks much for your help. Mark
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Jul 28, 2019 20:27:22   #
Imagemine wrote:
the best advice I can give , is export from light room in at lease 750 dpi that will cover you with most large prints , also you can select that when you export your image 300 dpi for smaller prints like 8x10 & 13x19 another thing calibrate your monitor before printing I use Spyder Pro. Good Luck !


Yep, I have a calibrator and I will do that. Still trying to understand all these variables. Do you send your files in Jpeg or tiff? And who do you use? Thanks for your reply.
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Jul 28, 2019 18:09:07   #
burkphoto wrote:
The REAL things that matter WHEN SUBMITTING JPEGs are:

> Dimensions of the image in PIXELS
> Desired print resolution (not to be confused with printER resolution, print resolution is how many uninterpolated original pixels created from the camera sensor data are available to spread over each linear inch of paper)
> JPEG quality setting when saved

Theoretically, proper print viewing distance is 1 to 1.5 times the diagonal dimension of the print. (Remember A^2+B^2=C^2, where A and B are the sides, and C is the diagonal)

For an 8x10, we need at least 240 original, from the camera or post processing software pixels, spread over each linear inch of a print. If you have that, larger prints may be interpolated to any size, and as long as we don’t view them from closer than the diagonal dimensions!

More original pixels are welcome, so use as many as possible without exceeding the lab’s file size limits.

A JPEG quality setting of 10, 11, or 12 on a 12 point scale, or 85 and higher on a 100 scale, is sufficient to avoid visible JPEG artifacts. The larger the print, the less compression I use.

If the lab accepts 16-bit TIFFs, ask whether they accept lossless compression, and if so, what kind? The LZW method is common. That can cut average file sizes in half.

Unless you submit UNcompressed TIFFs, file sizes have no direct correlation with quality.
The REAL things that matter WHEN SUBMITTING JPEGs ... (show quote)


Alright, again I thank you, but I have some learning to do. My thoughts were a 100mb 16 bit tiff file (not sure if this is lossless or not exported from lightroom] in Adobe 1998 color space would give a much better resolution on a large print, say 20"x40", than a 6mb jpeg in sRGB. I am researching some of what you said previously and learning about file resizing and exporting now. I know I'm confusing some of these issues and am trying to get this all figured out for the best quality prints I can get. Perhaps a larger jpeg file is all I need. As I stated in my original post, all the labs I've looked into so far only handle 8 bit jpeg files in sRGB.
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Jul 28, 2019 16:16:50   #
fotoman150 wrote:
I always gave the lab a TIFF if it was a wall portrait.


Thank you, I'm having trouble finding a lab that will take those files. I'm really confused with all the information I've gotten as I'm not sure if it's needed to get a high resolution print, it just seems the more information the file contains, the better the image will be. I'll keep looking into this until I know what to do. Thanks for your reply.
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Jul 28, 2019 16:13:19   #
burkphoto wrote:
As long as the EXIF metadata is tagged with Adobe RGB, AND you embed the profile in the image file, you should get correct color conversions.

To *see* all of what is in an Adobe RGB file properly, your monitor must have a color gamut wide enough to display it... and be calibrated and custom profiled.


Alright, thanks for all your help. Not sure what you mean to embed the profile in the image file, but I will look into that. I do have a monitor[BenQ SW271] suitable for the parameters you stated earlier as well as an X-Rite Display Pro1. Thanks again for all your advice. Definitely what I was looking for. Mark
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Jul 28, 2019 13:14:17   #
That's why I'm posting here. Trying to learn.
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