I am glad he likes to walk as far as he can before wanting to ride. He is going to live a while longer with your help.

It is interesting to hear this. Even at 74 years of age and increasing eyeglass problems, I have none of the problems you have mentioned with my mirrorless camera. I can see why you have your point of view, but I wonder why I don't have the same problems.

Do not look through the viewfinder without a filter that blocks UV rays! With a filter that allows UV rays, the UV rays will be concentrated and blindness will occur after the totality when the sunburn sets in. During totality, yes, one can view the chromesphere without the filter on the camera. But some people forget to remove their eye from the viewfinder before the end of totality! And some that were not quick enough paid with damaged eyesight. I cannot emphasize enough that sunlight concentrated by a telephoto lens is very, very dangerous. And the camera will be exposed to unfiltered sunlight at the end of totality also. But the camera is much, much more rugged than one's eye and repairable. One's eye that has been damaged as such is more than likely permanent.

Good advice. It cannot be said enough: Be sure you have the adequate and proper filters for both your eyes (to prevent blindness) and camera (to prevent costly camera damage). For your eyes, make sure what you buy cuts off the UV rays. Some camera filters do not cut off UV rays (sunburned eyes = blindness). So be very careful about using camera filters for your naked eye viewing of the sun. As far as other exposure data, try the NASA eclipse website. And there are lots of other sites to gain more info too. And the suggestion of practicing is important. Three or four minutes goes so fast it is almost unbelievable. And be sure to observe the shadow coming and going. Watch the horizon's color change as the shadow comes. Feel the temperature drop 10° to 15°. If you are near animals or birds, watch their behavior change and their confusion after totality. And during totality, be sure to see the chromesphere and stars without any filters and just your naked eyes (all while shooting of course; remember: practice, practice, practice, practice, practice).

The welders glass should be an ND 17, ND 18, and ND 19. You can safely use the welders glass to view the sun through it. I have never heard of welders plate. I do know if you cannot see the sun through the welders glass, the glass you have is too protective and blocking. One should be able to view the sun through the welders glass as long as they want if it is the right darkness. And if it is the right darkness for one's eyes, it is the right darkness for one's camera.

They are relatively hard to find, but if I were you, I would try to find a used TG-5 (Olympus label), TG-6 (Olympus label), and TG-7 (OM System label). Waterproof, 7' drop proof, available ring flash accessory, 11X macro ability, sequence shooting, RAW and JPEG, etc. B&H Photo used, Adorama used, Ken Camera, and OMDS's reconditioned would be good areas to search. Just a reminder, the new TG-7 is on sale for $499.99 (normally $549.99). It is worth considering even if it becomes yours when she gets home.

Take a solar charger. There are any number of them with different outputs. Just a suggestion.

You will need proper a filter to prevent camera damage and eye blindness. The only time that a filter will not be needed would be during the time of totality. If you are not on the path of totality, you will need a filter 100% of the time. The best places for information are the NASA eclipse website and Thousand Oaks Optical website. And remember, if the filter does not have the right spec cited for UV cutoff, the UV coming through the filter will be able to blind someone. One other filter source is welders glass. It will cut both intense sunlight and UV rays the same way it does for welding. ND 17, ND 18, or ND19 in welders glass should be sufficient. Of course, it is not as optically flat as a proper lens filter, but I have found it to be more than flat enough for solar photography. Have fun with this one since I am going to miss it because of my granddaughter's wedding.

Ideally made for wet environments!

On my "wish list" is the TG-6 or TG-7. Waterproof, 7' drop proof, 11X macro, ring flash attachment, etc. And will easily fit in one's pocket. Not as sophisticated as larger cameras but offers more than a smartphone as far as I am concerned.

As Linda From Maine, Longshadow, CHG_CANON, and some others have stated, "fill the frame" is a relative term. I always fill the frame, but as Linda has pointed out, it is the photographic composition that must fill the frame. As Jimmy T points out, for a full-frame or APS-C image most will be a "non-standard" print unless one crops for 5X7, 8X10, 11X14, etc. And if shooting for a "standard" size print, one cannot necessarily shoot to "fill the frame". As CHG_CANON pointed out though, 45mp should allow one to crop very heavily while retaining image quality easily up to and including 20X24. If you are still having trouble obtaining the image size for your composition, then a good teleconverter would be your best option in my opinion. Since I shoot 4/3rds and have less megapixels, it becomes more important that I shoot the best I can to fill the frame so my cropping is minimal. Also, my sensor shape requires less cropping for most standard print sizes than full-frame or APS-C. But at 45mp and additional room for your composition than my sensor, you should not have any worries about filling the frame unless you are printing 30X40 or larger.

First, no desperation. You already have a good system. You can take your time. You can spend time at the camera store and maybe even rent to see how various cameras and lenses fit your needs.

Second, the main differences between 4/3rds and full frame and APS-C is size, weight, cost, depth of field, ISO, and occasionally megapixels (20mp and 25mp is max for 4/3rds at this time). Size and weight of the camera bodies tend to be similar for just about any format. But the size, weight, and cost of the 4/3rds lenses tend to be less, especially for the larger telephoto lenses. Because of the sensor size difference, the smaller 4/3rds sensor results in a relatively larger depth of field than full frame or APS-C for the same aperture. If you do a lot of heavy cropping, that is when the higher megapixel sensors (30+) are a savior. Because of the shape of the 4/3rds sensor, most standard print formats require less image (megapixels) loss than full frame or APS-C. And ISO tends to be noisier at higher ISOs as the sensor gets smaller. ISOs less than 3200 tends to be more than acceptable in 4/3rds.These are the very basic differences in the formats. And as far as image quality goes, there are a lot of UHHers that love the image quality of their Sony RX10s and RX100s which has an even smaller sensor than 4/3rds. Image quality is really one of least important concerns between all formats at this digital point in time.

Third, many UHHers have both a full frame camera and a 4/3rds camera. And there are photographers
on even other photo sites that have both a full frame and a 4/3rds camera. Some photographers have even given up their full frame cameras after spending time with their 4/3rds camera. And as a travel camera, especially international travel, 4/3rds is one of the favorites because of the 4/3rds size and weight.

And fourth and last, all 4/3rds is interchangeable for all basic functions. An OM body or Panasonic body can use an OM lens or Panasonic lens. This allows for a lot more choices in bodies and lens. OM specializes in still shooting with good video. Panasonic now shoots very good stills and specializes in some of the very best camera video.

How have fun taking a look at 4/3rds. And if you want less shoulder weight when walking around, definitely consider buying something like an OM-1 mkII with a 12-40 or 12-100 lens.

The satellite will give you all the GPS you want for your photographs - if you want or need that GPS. It is at least an option available to you that a lot of other photographers do not have an option to.

Go to the NASA eclipse web site and the Thousand Oaks web site. These sites will educate you. Thousand Oaks Optical will sell you film that can stop both intense sunlight and UV rays. If you are not using a DSLR and only a mirrorless, they can sell you film that cuts the intense sunlight. Do not make the mistake of getting the wrong type filter for your camera. Blindness is a possibility if you use a DSLR with the wrong filter. UV "sunburned" eyes rarely see again. Both B&H Photo and Adorama will sell you filters too. Most will not stop UV rays unless the paperwork with the filters cite the correct spec for UV cutoff. Welders glass will also work because it will cut both the intense light and UV of welding. ND18 or ND19 welders glass will do fine. You should be able to use a piece to watch the sun if you do not buy Thousand Oaks sun shades.