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Posts for: BigD
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Feb 15, 2013 11:52:50   #
Might be that the flash is turned off and or your settings are out of the cameras ability to sync properly.

If you have not already done so try manual mode with a slow shutter speed like 1/125th's and see if it will pop. Dig through your manual / menu and see if there is a place where the external flash can be enabled/disabled. I can't remember if there is one on an Oly but on some cameras there is. Some how I manage to turn stuff on and off that I had not intended to all the time LoL.

Let us know what you find, we will fix it or fix it so nobody else can :thumbup:
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Feb 14, 2013 15:51:43   #
Check this out. If you have the cash, they have the packaged setup all ready for you. Hummmm... :roll: :roll: :roll:
http://www.theblaze.com/stories/2013/02/13/video-from-a-legal-privately-owned-drone-is-breathtaking/
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Feb 10, 2013 12:39:22   #
WYp8riot wrote:
mikemilton wrote:
rebride wrote:
If a computer monitor get an IPS (in-plane switching) screen, not a TN (twisted nematic).
Most all monitors and LCD TVs are LED backlight nowadays.
I run slideshows on computer screens, digital frames, and TVs.
My screensaver on my desktop computer is a slideshow of my pics. Usually the most recent. With zoom fading between images it is a great way to view for ideas of editing and cropping.


Good advice. My TV sometimes goes into a screensaver mode with some of my shots but they are distinctly different than on my editing monitor, as printed, or as others see them online. The question here seems to be: would you recommend that anyone use a TV as a primary editing monitor (or even just for sorting and selecting images)?

I would not, and particularly not for a beginner as it would be a barrier to progression.

TVs are set up to stand out in a showroom with lots of contrast and vivid colours. There are lots of videofile sites that describe how to tone this down for more realistic viewing but even that is a long way from a setup such that images edited on them would have the final look reproduced in print or on anyone else's screen. You might say that it is just for your use, but that isn't forever and the longer you work with a TV, the more you will have to re-do images later and the less skill you will build up in selecting and editing colour and contrast.
quote=rebride If a computer monitor get an IPS (i... (show quote)



Maybe you could give some good links of what you would suggest is good photo edit monitor?

I think 37-46" Range would be nice.
quote=mikemilton quote=rebride If a computer mon... (show quote)


If you really want to know what the serious folks use something like this is what you should be looking at. Take a tour through their site and you will learn why you need an IPS Monitor for viewing images and once you see one you'll find a way to afford one.

http://www.eizo.com/na/products/flexscan/sx2762w/index.html
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Feb 6, 2013 17:45:03   #
aerides wrote:
I never realized you have to be half handyman to figure out hardware for your monopod/tripod gigs. I mean really? Does it have to be this complicated? Anyway, you guys make it ALOT easier. I'm still going for the the Gitzo GM2541 monopod just because I want it. Even if it is extra bucks for "Gitzo ya ya boom bah whatever". 8-)


Oh the Monopod itself you should get a good one. I use a Gitzo GM3551 and it was expensive and has been worth every penny. It is amazingly stiff (stiffer than an aluminum one), light weight, and the twist locks are a dream even when it gets filthy dirty. To mount a big lens on your monopod though should be as simple as possible. Most sports shooters simply screw the tripod foot directly to the monopod and simply use the mount to flip between landscape and portrait mode. I use the RC234c because I like the Quick Release system. I have that on my monopod and a Manfrotto Ballhead on my Tripod and plates on all my bodies and big lenses. With that setup I can slap whatever wherever and everything works together nicely.
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Feb 6, 2013 16:51:13   #
aerides wrote:
BigD wrote:
Not sure about this Sirui but the Manfrotto 234c can hold a lot more than six pounds. I have my 400 f/2.8L IS I and a 1D MkIV on that thing all the time and it has no problems. And I use the Manfrotto PL-200 Quick Release Plates ($10 on Ebay) to hold it with no worries at all. I toss that thing over my shoulder and run all over creation at field sporting events and have never had one little problem. I don't get spending big bucks for Arca Swiss ya ya boom bah whatever when these plates could hold anything you can with your arms... A good Ball-head on your tripod yes but people go totally nuts over their mounting plates, IMHO :mrgreen:
Not sure about this Sirui but the Manfrotto 234c c... (show quote)


Funny! And convincing! That's two for the Manfrotto. Thanks.
quote=BigD Not sure about this Sirui but the Manf... (show quote)


I'll catch hell from the big buck machined aluminum fanboys haha... :roll: :roll: :roll:
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Feb 6, 2013 15:35:33   #
aerides wrote:
Does anyone have an opinion on this monopod head? In case the link doesn't work it's the Sirui L-10. Weighs only 7 oz, supports up to 33 lbs. Bubble level. Arca-compatible quick release base. There aren't many reviews of it on B&H.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892554-REG/Sirui_bsrl10_L_Series_Monopod_Tilt.html

I'm shying away from the Manfrotto 234RC head because it only supports 6 pounds. I don't need more than that right now, but room to grow seems like a good idea and I'm not sure about the sturdiness of the build. Otherwise, it seems like all I really need.
Does anyone have an opinion on this monopod head? ... (show quote)


Not sure about this Sirui but the Manfrotto 234c can hold a lot more than six pounds. I have my 400 f/2.8L IS I and a 1D MkIV on that thing all the time and it has no problems. And I use the Manfrotto PL-200 Quick Release Plates ($10 on Ebay) to hold it with no worries at all. I toss that thing over my shoulder and run all over creation at field sporting events and have never had one little problem. I don't get spending big bucks for Arca Swiss ya ya boom bah whatever when these plates could hold anything you can with your arms... A good Ball-head on your tripod yes but people go totally nuts over their mounting plates, IMHO :mrgreen:
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Feb 6, 2013 11:34:35   #
rpavich wrote:
ishootthings wrote:
I am looking to purchase an ultra wide angle lens for my Canon 7D (with IS.) Any recommendations/opinions?




For a cropped body, in my opinion, there is no better wide zoom than the Canon EF-S 10-22. It's a real bargain lens steal.

There are other lenses out there that are very good, but for the price...this one rules.


Another vote for the EFs 10-22mm it rocks on a crop body.

:thumbup:
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Feb 6, 2013 01:11:12   #
Ernie Misner wrote:
There are definitely dust or oil spots on the sensor. They only show up at smaller apertures usually. Check the cleaning products from Copper Hill. I got 100 (!), yes 100 swabs and the pure methanol cleaner for $41. I paid twice that for a local cleaning and will never do that again. Great info on exactly how to do it on that web site too.


Yep, I went back and looked and there are some. No big deal time to clean the sensor, been there, done that.
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Feb 5, 2013 11:45:50   #
naturepics43 wrote:
I wasn't up to reading 6+ pages of comments so don't know if this was mentioned or not but you have a lot of spots in the upper left area of the sky. Just sayin.


I thought I saw some spots too but looking at the original RAW files there not there??? I just had that camera cleaned so if it does have garbage on the sensor I'll be sending it back :lol:
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Feb 5, 2013 00:56:27   #
Ernie Misner wrote:
Good test, thanks for doing the leg work. When shooting directly into the light, many times I've seen a bit more flare with a filter on there. Just my 2 cents but I think the test might be more meaningful if you were to shoot at around f8 instead of f22. There's going to be diffraction from such a small aperture at f22, especially on a wide angle lens. Still with your high quality filter you might not see any difference. Now of you want to see a difference, grab an old non-coated filter from the film days, and shoot into the light!
Good test, thanks for doing the leg work. When s... (show quote)


Ah but "not" seeing a big difference is exactly what wanted to see
:-D
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Feb 5, 2013 00:19:19   #
cyclespeed wrote:
I use a B + W UV-Haze filter and find no difference when it is on or off.
Hesse are made in Germany. When I was shopping the store compared the " knock off" brand, the HOYA and the B+W over a coin. It made it very clear to see how the other two filters changed the view but the B+W was showing no difference from looking at the coin with no filter in front.
Maybe the filter brand is an issue especially if there are counterfeit HOYA lenses out there.


There are definitely some fakes out there from China. A good way to tell is when a $100 filter is $36 with free shipping :) When I was doing my research I had a bunch of the B+W's and optically they were great but! I use the thin ones on a few lenses and they do not have threads so your lens caps won't work. You have to use their provided push ons and that annoyed me. The Hoya's have worked well for me.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:00:00   #
Sreejib wrote:
BigD wrote:
OK guys not to start a big fight but I simply had to do this. I read Jerryc41's post a while back where he compared his images with and without a protective filter and I was a bit shocked. I have been a photographer for over 25 years and I have tried pretty much all of the major flavors of filters and have recently, after some serious research, switched out everything for Hoya HD series filters. I do choose to use a protective filter since my work takes me to some nasty places to take pic's and I have, on many occasions, had the end of a lens saved by a simple filter. Now you can fume and fuss all you like and toss out things like using a lens cap or a lens hood and I will counter that I can't because I shoot sports and you need to be ready at the blink of an eye and I do use lens hoods at all times but that won't change your mind and you certainly are not going to change mine so we should agree to disagree and to each his own. All that aside if my images are being seriously effected I don't want them on there. I have tested this and I have never seen a detectable difference but Jerry's images did get me wondering so I did my own simple test.

To test I took two images a few seconds apart first with and then without the filter. Aside from the filter there was no changes to anything else. I simply placed my Canon 5d MkII on my tripod and attached a 16-35mm f/2.8L II lens set to 35mm. I set the ISO to 100, the aperture to f/22 and the shutter to 1/30's for a proper exposure all manual of course. I focused on infinity, locked the mirror up and fired with a wireless remote for good sharpness. I shot in RAW as well as .jpg Large Fine and compared the images straight out of the camera in Lightroom 4.3 with zero PP. I blew the images up to a 100% crop and did a side-by-side comparison of the two images on my Eizo 27" IPS Monitor which is very high resolution and could not see any difference. In fact if I somehow mixed the two up I would not be able to tell which was which. Here they are in the .jpg format, we'll see if they post as they appear on my computer monitor, what do you guys think?
OK guys not to start a big fight but I simply had ... (show quote)


Well BigD, after viewing your two picture I found that the first one is little more contrasty & vivid.
quote=BigD OK guys not to start a big fight but I... (show quote)


Seems most prefer the one with the filter. I actually did as well

:thumbup:
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Feb 4, 2013 16:05:12   #
Macbadger wrote:
Any idea how they compare with the Hoya and B+W?
BigD wrote:
Macbadger wrote:
I have been using Nikon clear filters for lens protection. Do any of you know how they compare with Hoya and B+W in this area?


From what I have heard from the guys I work with the Nikon's are great filters. I believe MT Shooter also uses them which is a good endorsement. :thumbup:


Well the filters I use are Hoya HD Protector series. As for B+W they are almost identical in their quality which is to say they both work very well. I have a Hoya on every lens I own except my Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 because the front is 105mm and Hoya doesn't make one that large. I have a B+W MRC UV(0) on that one and I really can't notice it is there in my images. I don't shoot Nikon but the guys I bump into all the time that do all use B+W, Hoya, Heliopan, or Nikon so I'm guessing they are tit for tat. I think that if you stick with the highest quality manufacturers you will be fine.
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Feb 4, 2013 15:59:35   #
0627ramram32 wrote:
Maybe an upload artifact, but to my eye 'With' is conSIDerably darker, and would require lightening in post to bring out shadow detail.


Yeah I think it didn't upload well because that is not the case on the original RAW files they are virtually identical. I guess this is a good exercise in compressed image files as well
:lol:
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Feb 4, 2013 14:23:27   #
I typically have two cameras on me (both gripped), one with a 70-200 and another with either a 16-35 or a 24-70 for quick change-ups. I started using a Black Rapid Rip-Off design called Quick Rapid's that are available on Ebay for cheap. They are built like a tank and can easily handle a gripped DSLR. I have a single and a double version so I can carry only one body or two. They are WAY better than a neck strap and you can carry a camera around all day if you need to.

As for the tripod mount I have had zero problems using them. The insert on the Battery Grip has a wide metal plate on the inside that takes the weight with no problems, at least for me. If you really want to have confidence just run a small strap from the buckle to the cameras neck strap mount. I have Manfrotto QR-2 PL-200 Quick Release mounting plates on all of my bodies as well as on the big lenses that have tripod collars. This allows me to snap them onto my ballhead on my tripod or onto my monopod which has a matching mount. All of them have the Black Rapid Fasten-R which is a replacement bolt for the mounting plate that has a heavy duty bail that swings out to allow you to attach the camera/lens to a carry strap. The setup has proven to be very versatile when your changing your setup on the fly at an event. It also works well for simply carrying the camera and popping it onto a tripod.
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