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Posts for: Trabor
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Mar 9, 2015 16:03:21   #
Perhaps the camera companies have been right all along, when they recommend using TC only with top end prime or selected narrow range zooms
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Feb 24, 2015 20:52:49   #
boberic wrote:
It basically come down to 1 word. Because!! It is just a convention such as why is 1 foot 12 inches. Why is a mile 5280ft. All language is merely an agreement about what to call things. Why is a house a house instead of ;lkimh ?


Actually the foot came before the inch, an inch is 1/12 of a foot, , why 1/12 ? that was decided 3000 yrs ago by the Babylonians, the foot is the average length of the foot of the first 100 men to come out of church on sunday morning
The Mile (coming from the latin Mille meaning 1000) is 1000 double paces of a Roman solder.
Everyone in England knew what a mille was since the romans put mile markers all over the country when they were in charge

5280 is just how it worked out when two unrelated standards collide
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Jan 20, 2015 13:02:25   #
Regarding DOF question
Photoshop CC 2014 has an interesting tool "select/Focus area" that will provide a rapid display of how much of your picture is within a user specified sharpness range , also useful to see if your technique needs improving or if your camera has back/front focus issues
Obviously only during PP
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Nov 11, 2014 17:01:00   #
oops sorry about that
the lens calibration product was obvious on their web page
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Nov 11, 2014 15:15:27   #
cjc2 wrote:
Does anyone have an opinion on the $60 Datacolor unit for lens calibration as opposed to others that are (much) more expensive. I'm looking for an opinion on how good you think this is and if it's worth buying?


It is not clear what you mean by lens calibration "datacolor" make Computer color calibration systems having nothing to do with the lens

some of the posts talk about focus calibration which is something different
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Nov 11, 2014 09:25:56   #
philz wrote:
I read on one of the threads that image stabilization is initiated only when the shutter is pushed half way and not when the back button focus is pushed and focus is set. Is this correct?


One of the video clips on the Nikon web site confirmed that this is true, you would think that the manual would say so also
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Nov 8, 2014 14:17:22   #
3. The article also indicated something about activating the VR with the auto focus press of the shutter button that I couldn't fully understand. Does anyone know what that means? Thank you[/quote]

I believe that if you use back button focus VR is activated only after the shutter released is depressed 1/2 way
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Aug 25, 2014 11:54:52   #
Rongnongno wrote:
When you see a 'histogram' prior to shooting it is not an histogram but an evaluation of the light. Histo - history - past. Sorry guys you are using the wrong name for something perfectly legitimate (light spectrum analysis)


Actually "hist" has nothing to do with "History" see attached discussion

"The word `histogram' is of Greek origin, as it is a com-
posite of the words `isto-s' (os) ( `mast', also
means `web' but this is not relevant to this discus-
sion) and `gram-ma' () (`something writ-
ten'). Hence, it should be interpreted as a form of
writing consisting of `masts', i.e., long shapes vertically
standing, or something similar. It is not, however, a
word that was originally used in the Greek language1.
The term `histogram' was coined by the famous statis-
tician Karl Pearson2 to refer to a "common form of
graphical representation". In the Oxford English Dic-
tionary quotes from "Philosophical Transactions of the
Royal Society of London" Series A, Vol. CLXXXVI,
(1895) p. 399, it is mentioned that "[The word `his-
togram' was] introduced by the writer in his lectures
on statistics as a term for a common form of graphical
representation, i.e., by columns marking as areas the
frequency corresponding to the range of their base.".
Stigler identies the lectures as the 1892 lectures on
the geometry of statistics [69]."
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Aug 25, 2014 11:25:40   #
Rongnongno wrote:
That was true with films.

A fast film had deeper blacks and had more contrast at the expense of mid tone so their use was rather limited.
A slow film on the other hand had deep mid tones.
Think chemical reaction to light.

In the digital era this has gone the way of the dodos. Pixels react identically in the Black or the white or mid tones if properly exposed.


The responder here seems to have confused "shutter speed" (in the OP) and "film speed" (his response)
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Aug 25, 2014 11:14:28   #
The Rev wrote:
Trying to get used to back Button Focusing. When focusing on a stationary subject do you simply engage and release the FL button, but continue to engage it if the subject is moving?


Assuming that your camera has two modes "Continuous" and "single"

In single mode the camera focuses once each time FL is depressed, in continuous mode the camera will continuously refocus as long as the button is depressed

I find that single is best for sitting birds and continuous for moving birds

Or use continuous mode and do as you suggest in the post
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Aug 20, 2014 21:48:48   #
The shake filter actually works pretty well on the fly pic if the proper settings are used

There is obviously an overall 20 pixels or so of vertical shake, and in addition the eye has major issues perhaps out of focus and possibly some internal reflections

I set he analysis window to a small region on one of the legs and the bounds setting to 23 pixels and got the attached result, obviously not perfect with some evident halo effect, but overall much sharper

If one includes the eye in the shake analysis, the routine complains that it cannot find a good result, hard to find fault with that- there is definitely something strange about that eye

I find that with normal pictures having reasonable shake,blur and noise, that significant improvement is possible with a bit of fiddling


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Aug 12, 2014 12:12:21   #
RJNaylor wrote:
Also, the boat photo has good focus and i don't see a noise problem. The photo with the crane is a little blurry -- I would say from camera shake. What had you been shooting with?


Using PSCC shake function, it is obvious that the bird has vertical motion (camera shake due to button depress?) while the boat has significant horizontal shift (due to wave action?)
Both can be separately improved
I do not see any significant noise issue, but agree with previous comments re increase exposure to improve dark areas then PP to get the rest according to your taste
Most denoisers allow independent correction for light and dark areas
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Aug 11, 2014 22:42:36   #
Photomacdog wrote:
Thanks for responding Cdouthitt. I have an 18-300mm Nikor lens which does have VR (vibration reduction). I try to observe the "golden rule of faster shutter speed than lens length. Sometimes we take a picture that we call "soft focus". I was wondering if there is something to look for in a "soft focus" picture that would be a clue, i.e.: in a slow shutter speed picture there might be trailing lines in an extreme case.


If you have Photoshop CC, go to Filter/sharpen/shake reduction
if necessary set " Blur Trace Bounds" to 10
and observe the graphic in the box,

If you see a circular fuzzball you have focus blur and/or noise (Smaller ball is better)
If the fuzzball is unsymetrical oval or irregular you have motion blur. the direction of the axis of the blob indicates the direction of the motion

If you post a picture I could analyze it
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Aug 8, 2014 12:52:16   #
Terry in Indiana wrote:
After my Nikon d7100 rolled off the bed onto the carpeted floor (YIKES!) about a month ago, it has been slow to focus and not as sharp. So I finally broke down and took it to be repaired and rented the closest thing I could find, a Nikon D700. After I got home, I read online comparisons between the 7100 and 700 and on most specs they are very similar, with the huge exception that the D700 is full frame (as opposed to the 7100 being cropped) and the sensor size is twice as big. But the pixel count is close and most reviews say the 7100 IQ is nearly as good if not equal. So apart from the wider view that the full-frame provides (which, frankly, is not an advantage often especially since I usually like to get closer to my subjects), what's the big deal about the sensor size? I don't understand why a bigger sensor is better...and makes the camera model cost twice as much. All other things being comparable, I don't understand why bigger sensor is better? I know there are lots of technical experts on this forum...can you please explain it to me?
After my Nikon d7100 rolled off the bed onto the c... (show quote)


Wikipedia has a good discussion here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_noise#In_digital_cameras

The issue, as is often the case, is more complicated than it appears at first glance
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Aug 2, 2014 17:03:48   #
Gene51 wrote:
Take a look at this:

http://www.extremetech.com/computing/160816-photoshop-cc-hands-on-with-camera-shake-reduction-and-how-it-works


Thanks
Just what I was looking for
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