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Jun 2, 2016 12:15:53   #
BebuLamar wrote:
No it doesn't count. If it does then you have to count many of the Canon rangefinders as well. And did you ever heard of the term mirrorless back then? So really the term mirrorless means more than just a camera without the mirror (and I am sure the first camera ever made didn't have a mirror).


Sure the old rangerfinders can be called mirrorless. AND full frame!
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May 27, 2016 15:59:52   #
rook2c4 wrote:
Yes, if you follow the shoot-now-figure-it-out-later approach. But I always try to visualize the end result at time of shooting, and sometimes using color filters will tell me more about what works and doesn't work than imagining how scenes may translate to b&w when converted later during editing.


Yes, but it's just about impossible to look through a colored contrast filter and see the final result of how that filter will impact the image.
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May 27, 2016 14:32:38   #
Carl D wrote:
Try telling that to those of us that do IR photography----LOL-----


And now you're really going to confuse the original OP's question about B&W.
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May 27, 2016 14:06:09   #
rook2c4 wrote:
If do you plan to shoot b&w in camera, it would be wise to acquire some color filters so that you can have more control over the tones and overall contrast. Definitely yellow; for additional filters, you can't go wrong with red, green and orange.


There's really no reason to add colored filters with digital cameras. After converting to B&W, if you shoot in RAW, you can add the same effects with the color sliders. Nothing is gained, and things can be lost if you use a colored filter when shooting.
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May 27, 2016 12:47:54   #
sjb3 wrote:
I'm glad you brought that up, since I noticed (and quickly downloaded) those Nik filters and added them to my PSE v. 13. I also found .pdf manuals on them. This has only been in the last week or so and I haven't tried them out yet. The question I have for you concerns the Silver Efex, the b&w one. Is it in fact a conversion filter, that is, to be used strictly for converting color to black & white? I work on a lot of antiques from the Library of Congress that are in Grayscale (easy enough to change to RGB mode so as to apply filters) and it would be kind of neat to punch 'em up a little. Or am I floundering around out in left field?
I'm glad you brought that up, since I noticed (and... (show quote)


Changing greyscale files to RGB is the only way to work in NIK with them. After converting mode to RGB, the files are easily modified with Silver Efex. You can even add in the antique look with filters or presets they have. Very easy to play with once you get the hang of it.
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May 26, 2016 14:23:53   #
And as we who still shoot film know, to add contrast to a B&W film image you have to shoot with a colored filter. This same principal can be used in a digital B&W conversion by moving around the color sliders after converting.

Try adding yellow for a little contrast and orange or red for more dramatic contrast.
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May 26, 2016 13:30:20   #
If you shoot in your camera's black and white mode AND shoot it with JPEG & Raw setting, you can see what the B&W version looks like on the camera's screen plus have the RAW in color to convert and play with later.
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May 24, 2016 15:40:01   #
whitewolfowner wrote:
cjc2, sorry, you are the one that does not know what you are talking about. Like I said, it's all in the math and optical engineering. Go look up the formulas!


Now you've got me wondering also. I have several lenses with all the same filter size (and you can read that as front element size also), but some of them have different size maximum apertures. I've never heard that the filter size has anything to do with the aperture size, but it has more to do with the quality and type of lens.

You say you know what the formulas are and it's all in the math, but can you point me to where that's proven? I would be very interested in that way of measuring the lens quality.
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May 17, 2016 14:42:26   #
paulw wrote:
Right click and create copy then you will have the original and edited image next to each other



Or hit the back-slash key to switch between the previous version and then the edited version.
The key that looks like this \
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May 13, 2016 15:22:51   #
FilmFanatic wrote:
My main cameras are the OM2N and OM4. The OM2N has an electronic shutter and has aperture priority mode. Otherwise pretty similar. The OM4 is another beast entirely


I have an OM-1, OM-2, OM-10 and a few lenses.
I saw a M-1 (yes the original one before Leica made them add the O) last week on an auction site go for just a few hundred US dollars. Kicking myself for not going after it.
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May 9, 2016 13:16:10   #
Yes, my fault.

Also, Vivesa has sharpening slider that works well to define small areas of the image.
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May 9, 2016 12:47:01   #
Yes with the Define plug in part of Nik.
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May 3, 2016 10:43:01   #
Stop calling it noise, and call it grain.

Pretend you're shooting film. Hip thing to do.
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Apr 21, 2016 10:01:54   #
File export to wherever you want to save them as a JPEG and change the quality to whatever size you want to save them as.

Usually quality saved at about the middle level should would OK for this type of viewing.

Attach this file to any email.
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Apr 15, 2016 15:56:33   #
And don't forget to get some "Ho-Made Pie" at Mt. Carmel Junction.
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