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Posts for: Peter Boyd
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Dec 24, 2014 10:25:34   #
MMC wrote:
IMHO camera has problem to focus on such subject without contrast.


Sorry, but that's rubbish - there is not one single thing in the picture that is in focus - ergo - camera shake!
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Dec 24, 2014 09:14:08   #
gemlenz wrote:
Trying to figure out why this horse is so OOF.
Tamron 70-200mm @ 200mm ISO Auto (2500) f/8 1/250 AI-SERVO, stabilizer on, hand held, on a Canon 7D MII body. I realize the noise at 2500 will be a lot, but why would it be so much OOF. I've shot other times like this and they were tack on.


You are shooting at a shutter speed of 250th. sec with the zoom at 200mm, so that speed should be fast enough to avoid camera shake. BUT you have the lens stabilization set to ON. I think that this is causing your problem, it's
like having the stabilizer on when using a tripod, the system gets confused and actually introduces shake. When the focal length is lower than the reciprocal of the shutter speed stabilization should not be required. just MHO.

Seasons greetings,

Pete.
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Dec 19, 2014 10:46:03   #
sir_rickster wrote:
What is a good photo copier?


One that copies photos?
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Nov 20, 2014 09:48:33   #
Bilbo wrote:
Are you telling me Paul Simon was wrong?


Absolutely.
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Nov 3, 2014 07:02:48   #
tainkc wrote:
To answer your question properly; you've seen my self portraits. Need I say more?


As an operational CSI I photographed corpses all the time - never had a single complaint!.
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Oct 13, 2014 11:18:19   #
Old Salt wrote:
I do remember not have the lens hood on and holding my hand out over the lens for these photos.


I think the clue is that you held your hand over the lens. I'm guessing that the camera was on a tripod and the shutter speed was a long one. If that is the case, then holding your hand over the lens has caused camera shake part way through the exposure, resulting in what looks like a double exposure.

Pete.
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Sep 17, 2014 07:58:36   #
aguiden wrote:
I'm on the border, trying to decide if I want to pursue photography professionally. It's always been a personal passion. I've worked in photoshop a tad before and recently had a free trial of lightroom, however I'm still not versed enough to know the biggest difference and what works best for what photography. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you.


Both.
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Aug 10, 2014 12:31:36   #
Terry in Indiana wrote:
After my Nikon d7100 rolled off the bed onto the carpeted floor (YIKES!) about a month ago, it has been slow to focus and not as sharp. So I finally broke down and took it to be repaired and rented the closest thing I could find, a Nikon D700. After I got home, I read online comparisons between the 7100 and 700 and on most specs they are very similar, with the huge exception that the D700 is full frame (as opposed to the 7100 being cropped) and the sensor size is twice as big. But the pixel count is close and most reviews say the 7100 IQ is nearly as good if not equal. So apart from the wider view that the full-frame provides (which, frankly, is not an advantage often especially since I usually like to get closer to my subjects), what's the big deal about the sensor size? I don't understand why a bigger sensor is better...and makes the camera model cost twice as much. All other things being comparable, I don't understand why bigger sensor is better? I know there are lots of technical experts on this forum...can you please explain it to me?
After my Nikon d7100 rolled off the bed onto the c... (show quote)


Generally speaking, a good big 'un beats a good little 'un. This applies to most things, not just photography. Another reason why the D700 is superior to the 7100 is the build quality, it probably would have survived the fall to the carpet unscathed. Sorry if this re-iterates what others have said, but I couldn't be bothered to trawl through all the replies.

Best wishes,

Pete.
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Jun 6, 2014 12:01:36   #
Gene51 wrote:
Ring flash will illuminate, but it will create "flat" lighting. With macro, unless you are shooting stamps or forensic crime scenes, most subjects will benefit from using directional light - from one side or another - to better reveal textures and fine details. A good way to approach this is to separate the flash from the camera with either a cable or a radio trigger. Yongnuo has a cheap but very reliable trigger, the YN-603 II. This will allow you to position the flash anywhere you want. Bounce your flash whenever you can, it will give you a more pleasing look, but in certain circumstances you'll want that "crispy, hard-edged detail" look of unmodified flash.
Ring flash will illuminate, but it will create &qu... (show quote)


To clarify, ringflash was designed for medical/dental photographers, to photograph cavities, when light from any direction except straight on would create unwanted shadows, so if you use it on a reflective flat surface it will produce a circular highlight around the subject, which, generally speaking, is not desirable.

Pete.
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May 27, 2014 08:12:21   #
nicksr1125 wrote:
I concur with your treatise, wilsondl2. Very well worded. The only correction I'll offer is it's ISO whether you shooting digital or film. ASA hasn't been used since the mid-70's when the American Standards Association was dropped in favor of the International Standards Organization. I haven't seen a Kodak Exposure Guide in over 50 years.


This doesn't really matter since the numerical values of ISO and ASA are identical.
Pete.
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May 5, 2014 08:53:59   #
donwoz wrote:
wanted: Looking for a gently used Mamiya medium format.

I've got one, if you live in U.K., would consider selling it, but can't be bothered with overseas shipping. It is a Mamiya C330 which has certainly seen some use, but is still a cracking camera!

Pete.
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Apr 10, 2014 10:00:14   #
And if you cannot accurately focus after understanding all that-there's no hope for you,Sorry.[/quote]

I can't even be bothered to read all that, never mind understand it!!!
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Apr 6, 2014 10:32:46   #
Laurie Colleen wrote:
I've been a Nikon shooter since I was a kid. Currently, I have a Nikon D80 (backup body) and D7000. I'm tempted to jump to the D800 but that will require all new lenses, as well as the new body. Big investment. I have been building my current collection of DX lenses for years. But I'm a quality freak. Is it worth the trade up and huge investment to D800 and FX lenses? Thoughts?


Only you can answer that.
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Feb 26, 2014 10:28:30   #
winterrose wrote:
If you don't know about this one already, this tweak is worth applying.

MENU > SHOOTING > White Balance > AUTO > right click to AUTO Normal > right click to the rainbow chart > click one down to M1 > OK.


Thanks W/R I'll try that.

Pete.
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Feb 20, 2014 05:43:29   #
[quote=Rongnongno]Questions...

Continuous shooting with a DSLR... Why?



You would want to use continuous shooting for example when capturing star trails, one 30 sec. exp. after another for perhaps an hour or more to get uninterrupted trails.

Pete.
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