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Posts for: TonyP
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Feb 24, 2024 15:03:53   #
btbg wrote:
If you don't like the plastic clips just take a pair of pliers and break them off. They aren't needed as long as you are just attaching the strap to the camera and not attaching anything else to the strap.


That's probably among the most stupid, sillyest advice I've seen on UHH.
How would one swap between the wrist strap and the neck strap?
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Feb 23, 2024 13:45:16   #
Martin wrote:
Seagulls flying away at the Woodmere Dock ......


That is a nice shot Martin. All nicely focused and a really great composition. How did you get the whole group to hold that pattern long enough to get the picture
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Feb 23, 2024 13:38:08   #
kliese wrote:
usually my camera is in my left hand as i wander around. sometimes in my back, the i have to stop unpack and take my shot. i have seen some ads for a harness type where it looks like it attaches and stays a bit more static
Any advice out there. headed on a multi city adventure this summer


I've used the Optech/USA system for years. Well not really 'system' but I have the wrist strap and a neck strap. Comfortable enough but Ive always found the big plastic clips hanging off the side of the camera annoying when using a tripod. Also, my arthritic fingers find it difficult to squeeze the clips to disengage the strap when the weather turns cold.
Have just ordered these as a replacement https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1372679-REG/peak_design_sl_bk_3_slide_camera_strap_black.html/reviews
Read the reviews. The little red dot hanging from the camera is far more discrete than those big plastic clips I reckon.
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Feb 16, 2024 22:57:23   #
ImageCreator wrote:
Everything below the truck's tires is AI generated. I didn't like the parking lot my truck was sitting on, so I added a nice trout stream.


Well done. Subtle and creates a nice picture.
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Feb 16, 2024 22:55:55   #
bsprague wrote:
Fantastic example of how AI can be used.

The discussion, review and education about AI and how it works fits fine for me in the "Main" section.


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Feb 13, 2024 19:33:21   #
BebuLamar wrote:
ISO were used way before there were digital cameras.


Really, my book advises the ISO standard for photography was established in 1974.
Wasn't that about the same time that a digital camera was first sold?
By the way, its ISO 'was' used, not 'were' used.

Edit
Here ya go from Google:
The ISO standard was created in 1974 by combining previous camera standards ASA and DIN. Here we will discuss how this camera standard is important for photography and how users can adjust the same to get better photos.21 Feb 2022

Why has this become such a contentious subject, with so much silly misinformation coming to the fore from people with limited knowledge but just want to be heard?
Becoming more and more prevalent on UHH.
I'm tired of the notifications and am unwatching this. Have fun.
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Feb 12, 2024 23:05:00   #
Retired CPO wrote:
Why not?!


Oh. When you got so upset as to use capital letters in your statement, I thought you might have known what you were talking about.
Obviously not.
Well to answer your question; why not?
Because the world of photography doesn't revolve around America, like maybe it used to back in the days of film.
Today, ASA, the American Standards Association 'system' still refers to the amount of sensitivity film has to light.
It was when digital started to rear its convenient head, it was realised ASA wasn't going to have the range to cope with sensors that would eventually be a lot more sensitive to light than film.
That's when the International Organisation for Standards got involved and ISO was born.
25 ASA to maybe 800 ASA and today we already have sensors with sensitivity north of 13000 ISO.
To all intents and purposes ISO and ASA are the same, but there is a slight difference. I won't go into that aspect here as I cant actually remember what the diff is and it doesn't really matter.

Hope that answers your question CPO.
Cheers
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Feb 12, 2024 16:21:14   #
BebuLamar wrote:
You can set the ASA or DIN on your RB-67 if you have the CdS prism finder because this finder has a meter in it.
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://ianbfoto.com/downloads/Mamiya%20RB67/Mamiya%20RB67%20CdS%20Prism%20Finder.pdf

KEH is selling one for $80 but.... the meter is broken


Yeah. But I dont think it is actually synchronised to the settings. Its just and expensive light meter. I'm sure to be corrected if wrong.
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Feb 12, 2024 15:24:43   #
selmslie wrote:
The ISO you assume for the film depends on how it's going to be developed.

Take a look at The Massive Dev Chart for Kodak Tri-X. It shows anywhere from ISO 100 to ISI 6400 depending on the developer, concentration, time and temperature. Consider these assumptions as opinions, not fact. Look at the Notes in the last column.

I narrowed Tri-X down to between ISO 250 and 400 since I developed the film myself and I got to those values after careful testing.

But if you get your film developed in a lab, ISO 320 is probably a good place to start. If your negatives don't turn out the way you want them to you can change your assumption accordingly.
The ISO you assume for the film depends on how it'... (show quote)


I/We developed and printed our own negatives but always just used the stated ASA for B & W. Was usually close enough unless we were in 'challenging' conditions. Just like today with Photoshop etc, we dodged and burned areas of the final print or left it in the developer bath longer, or shorter, to get pretty good final prints. There was quite a bit of latitude in B & W film.
Colour, when it came along, was a lot different. Not the same latitude and was expensive, so one REALLY had to think, before taking the shot. We used an outside Laboratory for years until the boss bought the gear to process it and employed the guy who had been doing it at the laboratory to do the processing.

Thank the gods of photography for digital aye?
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Feb 12, 2024 14:36:02   #
R.G. wrote:
That shows conclusively that it's not the external mouse. Driver glitches is the most likely cause.


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Feb 12, 2024 14:33:14   #
Burtzy wrote:
As I recall from my film days, the basic exposure rule of thumb was the ASA (ISO) of the film was the selected shutter speed on a bright sunny day and the exposure was f/11. Overcast was f/8. If you could remember that, it was easy to interpret the rest of the settings. Flash was a bit more complicated because it depended on the strength of the flash bulb or strobe. But tests run on even one roll of film usually gave one all the information needed. Back then, a roll of B&W Kodak film was about $.75. Amazing that I can still remember all that and not where I left my glasses this morning.
As I recall from my film days, the basic exposure ... (show quote)


Actually the suggested exposure settings were printed on a thin bit of paper folded in the box of each roll of film.
The settings you quote only applied to 100ASA and there was a variety of different film 'speeds'. Ilford had a nice fine grain 50ASA film. I think their 400ASA was called HP4??
Flash was really no more complicated than it is today, except one did have to think about what you were doing.
Film and processing was expensive so each click of the shutter was important. No machine gunning techniques.
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Feb 12, 2024 14:23:46   #
Retired CPO wrote:
Well. I think he has the answer to his question. But I think it should be clear that there was NO SUCH THING as ISO in those halcyon days. It was ASA only! And still should be!


Why?
They mean exactly the same thing.
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Feb 12, 2024 02:40:44   #
AzPicLady wrote:
Question. When I don't have a mouse, how do I move around to open the search, select the program and start the download?


Use the arrows on your keyboard. Sorry, perhaps should have added that to the flow but thought you would know that.
All the functions of your mouse are available on a keyboard, just a little less friendly.
That's how we worked before 'mice' were born.
Depending on your keyboard model, you might even find a little button between about G, H, and B. This will move your cursor around, just like the mouse.
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Feb 11, 2024 17:36:24   #
AzPicLady wrote:
Responding to all: I've done the update thing, and it says it's up to date. My friend thought perhaps the driver was lodged in a bad spot in the drive. Uninstalling it totally and downloading and reinstalling would put it on a better piece if the drive

There were several steps, and it's those steps I'm looking for.


Easiest first step is delete the mouse driver. Leave the mouse connected tho. Shut down computer, restart. Windows will look for the missing driver and should then install it. If it doesn’t, go to the muse/keyboatd web site, look for the driver there and install it. I would recommend not going to a ‘sponsored’ website. Check you are in the real manufacturers site.
Good luck.
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