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Oct 3, 2011 20:05:06   #
Plusten wrote:
The Camaro is fantastic,,great pic,,,you did a nice capture of bridal veil falls,,they are all great,,Kenny


Thanks Plusten, so far it's only a hobby but I am gearing up to go pro; got a lot to learn, or should I say that there is a lot that has to become second nature to me; right now I have to contemplate every aspect of the shoot and I still take far too many pictures to get the good ones but with patience and practice that will change.
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Oct 3, 2011 12:31:38   #
photoninja1 wrote:
Right. Contrary to some opinions, I got very good results from that (70-300mm) lens, although I did retire it in favor of a Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS USM to get sharper (particularly at the edges) pix, lower light capability and more DOF control. Now I just need to find a cheap jackass to carry it around for me. It's a mill stone!


I'd be careful about putting my expensive and highly valued equipment into the hands of a cheap jackass; knowing how to vlaue something starts with knowing how to value yourself!
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Sep 30, 2011 21:32:06   #
photosbysexton wrote:
evandr wrote:
photosbysexton wrote:


KG, I think you have been given some bad information. There are not two physical curtains in your shutter. 1st curtain refers to the opening of the shutter, 2nd curtain refers to the closing of the shutter. So, when you are setting your flash to 2nd curtain, you are actually forcing the flash to activate just before the shutter closes. This is very effective when using slower shutter speeds to blur the action but freeze one subject in the image. Try taking a shot of someone walking towards you in the evening with a 1 second shutter speed using 2nd curtain flash. You will see the them nice and clear with an action blur behind them. Or try first curtain and you will see the blur in front of the clear image. This is what I've perceived from the turorials that I've read.

M
br br KG, I think you have been given some bad i... (show quote)


Wrong, wrong, wrong - there are two curtains, you cannot now, nor is it possible to get an even exposure with only one nor will one be able to open and close at the speeds that a DSLR will go to (1/8000+).

Consider, the curtain begins to open and those first pixels start to expose; as the curtain continues each successive vertical line of pixels start to expose so through the whole process of opening each line starts to expose at a different time; when the curtain is fully open that last line of pixels has just started to expose while the first line has been exposing for a long time (relatively speaking); now, if what you say is true and there was only one curtain it would have to start its closing cycle and that would mean stopping the last row of pixels that started during the opening cycle from exposing while the first is still exposing. Can you see what I am saying, in such a case the end result would be a picture that would be properly exposed on that first row of pixels while each successive row of pixels would be progressively underexposed until, on the other side of the picture, there would be nothing but black. It takes a shutter speed of less than 1/250th of a secont to achieve a fully exposed sensor (first curtain fully open before the second starts to close) at which time the flash can fire without shutter shadows.

You must also consider the mechanical limitations, there is no way that a physical shutter can open and close in 1/8000th of a second, it is just not possible, that is why the Iris shutter in a hasselblad can only reach speeds of 1/800th of a second and that is a camera with technology costing $20,00+.

To achieve an even exposure at the speeds a DSLR can attain the first curtain has to be opening followed closely by the second curtain closing behind it. That is why the concept of Flash sync is important, so important that most cameras will not allow you to set shutter speeds above 250 to 350 because only a narrow vertical line of the picture will be exposed because the flash is much faster than the curtains leaving the only part of the picture exposed to the flash being that part that was open between the front physical curtain and the second physical curtain.

At exposures of 1/8000th of a second the opening between the two curtains would be extremely thin and moving as fast as the physical properties of the camera will allow leaving each column of pixels to have the exact same exposure time.
quote=photosbysexton br br KG, I think you have... (show quote)


After much digging I did discover that I was wrong, somewhat anyway. Yes there are 2 curtains, one opening, the other closing. My deepest apologies, but yet, my sincere thanks as well. It seems that I learned something again tonight. Now I can go rest. Now, back to the original question; what was it again?
quote=evandr quote=photosbysexton br br KG, I ... (show quote)


Anyone who is willing to admit their mistakes will do well, Lord knows I have eaten my share of crow over the years, everybody does; having our knowledge tested and corrected if necessary is the cost of the right of passage, it's how we gain a firm foundation while we learn and then teach a thing or two along the way - thanks for participating, you have my respect.
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Sep 30, 2011 21:21:12   #
BigD wrote:
"So it seems that higher shutter speed is a mechanism for controlling the amount of light that gets onto each photosite of the sensor to control overall exposure settings, but it won't work for freezing motion."

No we did not move into discussing HSS just to argue. The above part of the OP postulates that a fast Shutter won't "work for freezing motion" and then asks if he is right or wrong. That was answered in about a second (he was wrong).

Then we went off to try and explain that his understanding of 1st and 2nd curtain and how "mechanically" it worked trying to pass along some information that was absolutely pertinent to the topic if you want to begin a serious discussion about how the Shutter freezes motion. HSS came into it because some reply's thought that a strobe was the thing that froze the motion. The difference between the Eye and the Shutter came in because some didn't understand how the Flash worked with HSS (because it worked for their eye to see fast things). The OP was basically correct about the Shutter controlling the amount of light that reaches the Sensor but the topic (some of us felt) could stand a little expanding. My original reply answered the question that was asked and then tried to quantify my reply, the resulting frenzy occurred when certain other people disagreed with some of my point and we discussed them, BIG DEAL.

Like I said in my earlier reply after some people started to basically argue with what is generally an accepted fact (that a high speed Shutter does stop motion), if we cannot expand on a topic and hear from those that might be more informed why have a forum? Is this site like a court where certain "facts" are not allowed because they were not part of this exact topic? Even though they might just take the topic in a direction where people can pickup some good information? Then there are those that feel it necessary to post a reply about people that posted a reply so they can accomplish what? And within their "sensible" reply they draw the same conclusion we did but provide nothing additional. Seems to me those are the people that just want to bicker.

I actually thought that by exploring the topic of freezing motion in its entirety we might have some really cool input from people but that is far from what I got. So I apologize for trying to go too deep and trust me it won't happen again. I have to prepare for a big shoot now and It just might involve a fast Shutter so wish me luck.
"So it seems that higher shutter speed is a m... (show quote)


No need to apologize, going deep is what keeps it interesting; so what if the "answer" covered more than the OP required, I dare say that a few people here learned things they never would have or at least had things they had not thought of in a long time brought to the surface - it's all good - thanks for the input.
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Sep 30, 2011 21:07:01   #
BigD wrote:
Evandr I was trying to agree with you but I replied wrong. I'm gonna stop watching this thread its getting silly.

Thanks - I think enough has been said on this topic too.
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Sep 30, 2011 11:33:34   #
photosbysexton wrote:


KG, I think you have been given some bad information. There are not two physical curtains in your shutter. 1st curtain refers to the opening of the shutter, 2nd curtain refers to the closing of the shutter. So, when you are setting your flash to 2nd curtain, you are actually forcing the flash to activate just before the shutter closes. This is very effective when using slower shutter speeds to blur the action but freeze one subject in the image. Try taking a shot of someone walking towards you in the evening with a 1 second shutter speed using 2nd curtain flash. You will see the them nice and clear with an action blur behind them. Or try first curtain and you will see the blur in front of the clear image. This is what I've perceived from the turorials that I've read.

M
br br KG, I think you have been given some bad i... (show quote)


Wrong, wrong, wrong - there are two curtains, you cannot now, nor is it possible to get an even exposure with only one nor will one be able to open and close at the speeds that a DSLR will go to (1/8000+).

Consider, the curtain begins to open and those first pixels start to expose; as the curtain continues each successive vertical line of pixels start to expose so through the whole process of opening each line starts to expose at a different time; when the curtain is fully open that last line of pixels has just started to expose while the first line has been exposing for a long time (relatively speaking); now, if what you say is true and there was only one curtain it would have to start its closing cycle and that would mean stopping the last row of pixels that started during the opening cycle from exposing while the first is still exposing. Can you see what I am saying, in such a case the end result would be a picture that would be properly exposed on that first row of pixels while each successive row of pixels would be progressively underexposed until, on the other side of the picture, there would be nothing but black. It takes a shutter speed of less than 1/250th of a secont to achieve a fully exposed sensor (first curtain fully open before the second starts to close) at which time the flash can fire without shutter shadows.

You must also consider the mechanical limitations, there is no way that a physical shutter can open and close in 1/8000th of a second, it is just not possible, that is why the Iris shutter in a hasselblad can only reach speeds of 1/800th of a second and that is a camera with technology costing $20,00+.

To achieve an even exposure at the speeds a DSLR can attain the first curtain has to be opening followed closely by the second curtain closing behind it. That is why the concept of Flash sync is important, so important that most cameras will not allow you to set shutter speeds above 250 to 350 because only a narrow vertical line of the picture will be exposed because the flash is much faster than the curtains leaving the only part of the picture exposed to the flash being that part that was open between the front physical curtain and the second physical curtain.

At exposures of 1/8000th of a second the opening between the two curtains would be extremely thin and moving as fast as the physical properties of the camera will allow leaving each column of pixels to have the exact same exposure time.
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Sep 29, 2011 23:21:16   #
Archangel wrote:
KG wrote:
Note, I'm not talking about flashes here. Just the body.

This is something I was thinking about recently, and I would like to hear some opinions on this matter.


First, take into account the fact that shutter speeds above camera's flash sync speed are achieved purely by moving the second curtain before the first one fully opens. So it seems like anything above the camera's flash sync speed (which is the highest speed at which the sensor gets completely uncovered) would not work for freezing motion. Different parts of the sensor would be exposed at different times.

So while each "row" of the sensor would experience shorter exposure time, the entire picture would be composed of snapshots taken and different points in time. Rolling snapshot.

Of course the difference would be microscopic, but we are talking about freezing the action.

So it seems that higher shutter speed is a mechanism for controlling the amount of light that gets onto each photosite of the sensor to control overall exposure settings, but it won't work for freezing motion.

Am I correct?
Note, I'm not talking about flashes here. Just the... (show quote)


I took this at 1/3200 shutter speed.
It froze the action of the bird.
quote=KG Note, I'm not talking about flashes here... (show quote)


Amazing isn't it, a stop action shot of a bird taken at a very fast shutter speed that has almost no perceptible blur (there is some at the extreamities of the one wing but I never would have given it any thought if it were not the point of this thread, in fact a shutter speed of 1/4000 may have eliminated that also) even though the laws of physics demand that there has to beeee...well...you know....the dreaded roll that causes blur. For me it is a moot point as long as I know what I want and how to get it; I am quite frankly surprised that it has given way to this much debate; it is a valid question with a simple answer -

A: "Don't worry about it, the perceptible distortion you speak of at that shutter speed will happen so rarely that you should not give it a second thought outside the reality that the faster the shutter speed the faster an object can be moving and still be froze in the photograph without distortion and/or motion blur. A more likely happening at that speed is a shot that is badly underexposed where nothing can be seen at all, blur or no blur.”
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Sep 29, 2011 15:22:07   #
evandr wrote:


Have you ever seen a strobe tachometer? While in the Navy on the aircraft carrier USS Kitty Hawk (CV63) years ago I have seen spinning propeller blades at full throttle look like they were standing still to the naked eye, it is quite old technology dating back to WWII and comes in quite handy when you need to see how something is working at high RPM’s.

If a flash is powerful enough and, more importantly "fast enough" to illuminate and then de-illuminate the spinning object in a square wave pattern (meaning instant on and then instant off) it can be made to look motionless without any distortion. Now, during that split second of time during illumination if you can expose the "entire" surface of a sensor equally to the light of the subject then the picture will show the subject frozen in time without any distortion. When using a flood light you simply need a shutter speed as fast or faster for an amount of time that the blade spin will be a sufficiently short distance at it extremities that the resultant blur will be imperceptible to the naked eye, something that even a “slit” of exposure will do if it is fast enough.
br br Have you ever seen a strobe tachometer? Wh... (show quote)


I must clarify something here, the use of a strobe or any flash will not produce a good picture if it is too fast to allow the DSLR shutter to expose the entire sensor to it, I only meant to show that you can stop the action of an object spinning at extremely high speeds using flashed light. Capturing that moment in time certainly does require special procedures and sometime special equipment, such as HSS strobes, or certain procedures that do not necessitate fast curtain speeds.

Thankfully it is a rare circumstance that camera speeds faster than 1/750 of a second are required and far rarer beyond that so it is not something you need to be prepared to do on the fly; the bottom line is that such exposures take proper preparation and the right equipment. Keep in mind that the right equipment does not have to be exotic or particularly expensive, only available to one who knows how to use it. You CAN achieve sharp stop action at a 1/4000th of a second shutter speed on a DSLR if the conditions are right "with or without a flash".
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Sep 29, 2011 15:00:29   #
check6 wrote:
First: This thread is about non-strobe exposure! The OP states that clearly.

Second: That being the condition a shutter can only stop motion that is moving slower that it.

My example was a propeller blade. With a diameter of 6 and turning at 2500rpm, the tips are moving at over 800 feet per second...nearly the speed of sound. A curtain shutter at 1\4000 is only moving at maybe half that speed. It can't stop the motion the the prop tips.


True but flash speeds are much faster than that. It's the mechanics of the camera curtain VS the flash speed that stand in the way of a good shot, you could freeze the blades with a flash and the shutter speed in Bulb if the ambient light was low enough.

It appears that the OP was simply saying that if things are not set up correctly and the conditions are not right you will not get a good shot but made it sound like you could net get a good shot at 1/4000th in any case, thus "the big debate"

I agree with you, the subject can be made to "freeze" but two conditions have to exist:" First the motion has to be such that it will not progress further than a 1/4000th of a second shutter speed can capture it without motion blur, and second the light must be of constant intensity for the whole 1/4000th of a second.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:41:15   #
BigD wrote:
Evander EXACTLY, the "rub" people are dancing around is that the Shutter is exposing in slits and not the entire sensor at the same exact time. And what I am saying is "that being true" in the REAL WORLD a 1/8000 Shutter can stop a whole bunch of motion but you have to have the correct exposure to do it.


Agreed, the slit does not create the picture, the sensor does, it only has to present the available light to each individual pixel for a certain amount of time and it is important that the light level does not change until the curtains are finished doing their job; by that I mean both the intensity of the light via the light source “and” the motion of the light via the movement of the object.

I think it would be easier to stop thinking in terms of the whole sensor and start thinking in terms of the millions of individual pixel sensors each of which will be 100% exposed to the light for certain duration of time provided that there is any slit at all in the curtain. If the first pixel exposed is only 1/4000th of a second away from the last then the subject will, 99.99% of the time, be frozen without distortion.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:23:46   #
BigD wrote:
I know what was said but the "fact" that was quoted about how flash and Shutter speed are linked was incorrect. So is their understanding of front and rear Curtains I might add. So what I was trying to do was interject the correct mechanical explanation of how high speed Shutters effect motion stopping abilities and how to achieve it.

The idea of a forum is for people to share their experience and knowledge with each other to gain a broader knowledge base. When I see someone build a scenario based on incorrect data and then reach a conclusion I simply try and provide a more technically accurate version. There are people on here that are very new to this so their "filters" are more open to clogging and I like to help clear the air if I can. Just my 2 Cents worth.
I know what was said but the "fact" that... (show quote)




If you will, try to include the post to which you are refuting as a quote in your post, it helps with continuity and provides the person who made the post to which you are referring a chance to defend his/her position, perhaps you misunderstood what you read, just a thought.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:18:31   #
BigD wrote:
I love how we all perceive what others are saying. The use of a strobe to give the illusion "to your eye" is one thing. Your eye and your camera are not the same thing. Like I have said, and others have confirmed, to stop motion you need a fast shutter. To use a fast shutter requires proper light. To achieve proper exposure requires either very bright lights or a strobe. To use a strobe requires that you sync that strobe with the motion of the Shutter so that it is at its zenith (brightest point whatever that "output" is to achieve your proper exposure) during each "slit". I have a feeling that some people here have never actually done a HSS shoot on a fast moving object and are shooting from the hip. Guys you can stop a Hummingbirds wings dead stop if you can get the Shutter speed up there. And to do that just might require a HSS strobe. :thumbup:
I love how we all perceive what others are saying.... (show quote)


Yep, you are right but the principle is still the same - you need to get enough constant light onto the whole sensor equally and for a short enough time to freeze the action. I think some of us are talking procedure while some of us are talking theory. The fact that the sensor is exposed with curtains or irises and the light is a flash, a HSS strobe, a high powered flood light or a match is irrelevant, only that it works. the bottom line is that you can freeze anything with a DSLR if the setup is correct, something that the OP suggests is not possible at high speeds.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:10:56   #
ShakyShutter wrote:
evandr wrote:
I think it all boils down to one simple question – "is there enough “constant” light to properly expose each pixel sensor in 1/4000 of a sec?”


This is not the question. The amount of light has never been the question.


Yes, but the OP suggests that at with high front and rear curtain shutter speeds you cannot effectively freez motion and that is not true. The intensity AND "duration" of the light is of paramount importance and must be included in any answer to the OP that makes any sense.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:02:47   #
BigD wrote:
"First, take into account the fact that shutter speeds above camera's flash sync speed are achieved purely by moving the second curtain before the first one fully opens. So it seems like anything above the camera's flash sync speed (which is the highest speed at which the sensor gets completely uncovered) would not work for freezing motion. Different parts of the sensor would be exposed at different times."

The OP's explanation of how the Flash works in conjunction with the fast Shutter speed is not accurate skewing the rest of the discussion. The question is "can a fast shutter stop motion", the answer is YES. The SUPPORTING details are that in order to use the fast Shutter you must provide sufficient light. In most cases that requires HSS.
"First, take into account the fact that shutt... (show quote)


Agreed :thumbup:
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Sep 29, 2011 13:57:53   #
check6 wrote:
Evandr wrote:
Freezing an airplane propeller is easy – don’t use a flash! You can make that propeller look like it is standing still by using a powerful flood light, a very fast shutter speed and an elevated ISO (if the plane is moving or in flight then that would be a real trick&#61514;).


I'd like to see an example of that. I can show you hundreds of examples of that prop NOT freezing, but curving, even at 1/4000. That being said, in the real world, we don't want to freeze that prop at all because it looks terrible to see a prop frozen on a plane in flight. A nice blurred disc on the other hand is very nice.

However, if I'm flying and want to freeze the prop for a picture I usually pull the mixture and raise the nose to below 60mph...that usually does the trick ;-)
quote=Evandr Freezing an airplane propeller is ea... (show quote)


Have you ever seen a strobe tachometer? While in the Navy on the aircraft carrier USS Kitty Hawk (CV63) years ago I have seen spinning propeller blades at full throttle look like they were standing still to the naked eye, it is quite old technology dating back to WWII and comes in quite handy when you need to see how something is working at high RPM’s.

If a flash is powerful enough and, more importantly "fast enough" to illuminate and then de-illuminate the spinning object in a square wave pattern (meaning instant on and then instant off) it can be made to look motionless without any distortion. Now, during that split second of time during illumination if you can expose the "entire" surface of a sensor equally to the light of the subject then the picture will show the subject frozen in time without any distortion. When using a flood light you simply need a shutter speed as fast or faster for an amount of time that the blade spin will be a sufficiently short distance at it extremities that the resultant blur will be imperceptible to the naked eye, something that even a “slit” of exposure will do if it is fast enough.
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