Finally managed to grab a screen shot of the two images, side-by-side. The enhanced version is on the left.

(Download)

As I stare at the two images, I am a bit hard pressed to see a big benefit of the Super Res mode, but perhaps our members have sharper vision than I do. What is your opinion?

Right you are. I was having so much trouble posting the large original enhanced file that I failed to show the pre-enhanced version. Here is the original version.

(Download)

Right you are. I will try to post the before photo in the morning. I was having so many problems because of the large file size of the enhanced photo that I forgot to include the "Before".

Pix of honeybee taken with SONY A7r4, 18-135 mm lens at 135 mm.
ISO 320, 1/500, f 7.1, cropped in LR. No sharpening other than standard LR output on RAW file. AWB.
Ran Super Resolution (Enhance) tool.
Had to send as JPG as file was too large in TIFF and DNG formats.
Not as crisp as with TIFF or DNG.
Shot either with Monopod or Handheld - didn't record that info.
Enhance function provides striking results.

(Download)

Good pix. Images appear a bit oversaturated and too intense in the red range.

Many mammals, including mice, birds, fish, and many invertebrates have photoreceptors that detect UV. Humans do not have detectors sensitive in the UV range. There are reports, however, that suggest that some human beings can detect UV following cataract surgery.
In brief:
UV detection is distinct from the fluorescence that is elicited by UV. Fluorescence is traditionally defined as light that is elicited by excitation of an object with shorter wavelengths, and emitted as longer wavelengths. The most commonly emitted fluorescence may vary from slightly longer wavelength fluorescence, through the visible light range and into the far Infrared.
Special lenses are used in the lab that can transmit UV light. THey are quite pricey.
There are a variety of cameras used in the lab that detect UV to Infrared.
Check spectral transmission of the glass, the Bayer filter on the sensor, as well as the spectral sensitivity of the sensor itself.

I have no idea as to whether the following was legit or not, but I dropped out. It was too good to be true, so I decided to treat it as of dubious credibility.
The local CraigsList in san Diego listed a SONY Gmaster zoom for $800. It included a brand new SONY A7RIII as included for the price. I contacted the party and was told that it was his sister's and she was now posting it on EBay and had moved to South Dakota. I went to eBay and found the listing. Thinking that it was too good to pass up, I immediately put in a bid, and it was instantly accepted. I assumed that I could use my PayPal account to pay for it, and would have the security associated with previous eBay purchases. The seller claimed that she wanted to sell it as she didn't want it and wanted to use the money to buy a new computer from her new employer!
But they specifically asked for payment with Gift Card. I had no idea what that was, and learned that I could buy Gift Cards for eBay at the local CVS pharmacy store. There is a surcharge and sales tax on Gift Cards. Further inquiries left me ever more suspicious. Once I buy a Gift Card, it is no longer as easy to file a complaint. If you are successful filing a complaint to receive credit for the purchase, but cannot return the Gift Card for reimbursement. If I understand correctly, the Credit can only be used for a future eBay purchase. Seems that eBay is phasiing out sales with PayPal and pushing users to pay with Gift Cards.
Did I understand that correctly?
I reflected on my desire for a bargain - a brand new SONY A7RIII worth ca. $2,200, and a brand new GMaster lens worth $2800 for a total of $800!
Oh, well. I sent a message to the seller informing her that I was unfamiliar with Gift Cards, and would prefer to cancel the offer if unable to pay with PayPal. I never heard from her again.

If you have the RAW file, read up on the use of HSL adjustments in Lightroom. If the sky is a distinctively different color, you may find it interesting to play with the saturation and luminance of a specific color. Use the tool provided to determine which HSL values are predominant in the sky.
Also play with the "Dehaze" value, trying values up to 20 or 30.
Also fiddle with Color Temp.
JPG files are much more limited.
These steps will not alter the basic file, and you can restore the original image. Another helpful strategy is to make a duplicate file (In Windows version of LR, hit Ctrl+Apostrophe). You can make as many duplicate copies as you wish, so it is easy to compare the various modifications.

As a member of the close to 90 group, with mild to moderate Parkinson's Disease, I shoot Birds in Flight and small flowers. I rely on a tripod/monopod and a remote control shutter release. I mostly shoot with a SONY A7R4 and either a SONY 18-135 or SONY 200-600 mm telephoto. Sigma Macro 105. The nature of the remote control shutter release fall into several different categories that also depend upon the model of SONY camera. Best when used with tripod. OK with monopod, but not as stable as tripod, assuming that you use a remote cable release (or delayed release). The options that I have tried include:
1) InfraRed remote release. Cheapest but only works well if you are in front of the camera.
2) USB cable release. Reliable, but wire may interfere with free range of movement. About $20-$30 depending upon brand. Vulnerable to rain and mist as it requires that the cover on the USB port be left open to connect cable. Risk of pulling on cable if don't pay careful attention. That may topple tripod or change position of camera relative to desired scene.
3) Bluetooth remote controller from SONY provides greatest freedom of movement as the wireless configuration will not inadvertently tug on camera. I attach it to my pants pocket so I don't have to fumble to find it in a hurry. Works only with the later models of SONY A7 series, (A7RIII, A7RIV, A1, A6600 - but may also work with A9, etc. Requires Firmware update on A7RIII and A9. Drawbacks include price (ca. $78), drains camera battery even when not being used if Bluetooth is turned on in camera. Works up to 20-30 feet away from camera. Reliable. Is not affected by light rain or mist. Works well with both single shot and high speed bursts.
4) Smartphone controller with SONY software. Allows you to use smartphone to focus, set aperture, shutter, etc. But software is very quirky and unreliable. Free from SONY on Android and Apple software. If I recall correctly, Focus does not work with Back Button Focus mode.
I have used all these methods, as well as the delayed shutter release (2 seconds and 10 seconds). I find that the only reliable method is the SONY BlueTooth Remote Control. It provides the best shutter vibration isolation at all shutter speeds.

Why do you say that? They are silent, and the latest generation of Global Shutters have eliminated "Rolling Shutter", they are capable of very high speeds, and high numbers of frames per second.
Or are you being facetious?

Very informative discussion. Many thanks to all the contributors.

I previously had my prints done at COSTCO's on-site printing facility. Results have been outstanding, and if I didn't like the resulting prints, they were glad to reprint a modified version. They no longer have photo printing locally. I have been reluctant to order large prints from them over the internet, as I worried that my 8x10 to 20x30 prints will be bent by the postal service. What has been the experience of those who continue to use COSTCO?

The light is exhilarating. Gorgeous photo.

Exquisite photo. Wonderful DOF.