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Jan 3, 2016 12:04:36   #
EdJ0307 wrote:
This is why I don't like buying lenses on UHH. It is difficult to tell what is actually up for sale. It would be helpful if the seller included a couple of pictures of the item so that it can be better identified. And pictures taken with the lens would be really nice, too.

I took your advice and went to established sources. Here are some of the items I found:


Ed, I see you are having some trouble with lens designations. I stated the lens I have for sale is the "Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DO IS USM," so you should disregard all the others you found which are not so designated. Hope this helps.
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Jan 3, 2016 10:51:37   #
larrywilk wrote:
I recall the "rule" of using the reciprocal of the length of a lens as its minimum shutter speed ( 100 mm = 1/100). What I am having a difficult time understanding is WHY this would change from crop sensor to full frame.

I guess my difficulty in understanding this is what would be the relationship since the length of the lens has not changed. Light would not act any differently on the lens in either case. The difference would be how the sensor interprets the light, not how the lens impacted it.

A good exposure and focus would be the same with the lens on either sensor.

Perhaps, I am missing something or just plain misunderstanding some relationship. I hope some of our learned members can help clear this up.
I recall the "rule" of using the recipro... (show quote)


The manufacturer's focal length of the lens is the number to use to apply the rule of thumb on picking the slowest shutter speed (to avoid blur from camera movement). Here's how to think of it: A given lens which covers a full-sized sensor acts the same on the central 62% (or so) of the sensor, of course, which is about what the 1.6 crop factor APS-C sensor sees. That said, it could still make sense to alter the rule slightly to compensate for the fact that we may wish to print to the same print size as usually done for a full-frame sensor image, but this is another issue, namely, the issue of how to compare an image from a 35mm camera with one of the same subject matter (matching in image construction, such as all showing just the front of the same building) taken with a 2-and-a-quarter or a 4-by-5 camera.
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Jan 2, 2016 12:13:24   #
47greyfox wrote:
Better to ask a question than purchase something, only blurt out a barrage of expletives when you open the box.


Of course, you are right, but I did identify the lens properly and I assume interested individuals would go to established sources online rather than preferring a member offering some item to post pages of specifications here. Just sayin'.
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Jan 2, 2016 12:05:39   #
speters wrote:
So it's not an/f4 lens!!


Right, now you've learned something!
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Jan 1, 2016 20:16:19   #
Marionsho wrote:
f/4 in the title, f4.5-5.6 in the paragraph?
Marion


Yes, that is the official designation--it is f/4 at the 70mm end of its zoom range and gradually changes to an effective f/5.6 as it approaches 300mm.
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Jan 1, 2016 16:54:31   #
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM Lens for Canon EOS Cameras. Lens is in pristine condition. Hood and front and rear caps included. $550 plus $10 shipping.
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Jan 1, 2016 10:20:34   #
Dngallagher wrote:
Speed matters if you shoot in bursts for sure... especially if you shoot raw since the files are so much bigger.

The faster the camera can write to the card the faster it empties the buffer, and the faster the camera can continue to shoot.

I shoot with a D7100, which has a small buffer, the D7200 from what I have heard has a bigger buffer, so it can shoot faster for longer then it needs to write the buffer to the card, so the faster it writes the faster it empties the buffer and the longer & faster it can continue to shoot in a burst.

If you only look at the CLASS rating you will miss out on fast cards as the CLASS rating ONLY refers to a minimum speed (CLASS 10 cards have at least a speed of 10 MB/S) - so a card that writes at 10 MB/s is CLASS 10 AND a card that writes at 20 MB/s is also CLASS 10...

Get beyond CLASS rating and look at actual speeds - look for WRITE speed, not necessarily read speeds....

I use Samsung Pro cards in my D7100, quite fast, 32 GB in size and were cheap enough at the time to make them the best bang for the buck - a good site to find real speed tests & costs for cards is:

http://www.cameramemoryspeed.com

For the D7200, see this page:
http://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/nikon-d7200/sd-card-comparison/
Speed matters if you shoot in bursts for sure... e... (show quote)


Thanks to dngallagher for posting the link to the comparative testing data on memory cards (CF, SD and micro SD). Very useful source, including discussion of write-speed capability of particular camera models.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:31:16   #
Regis wrote:
Here is another photo shot with my Canon 5Dsr below.


Nice one, Regis. Thanks. I see it could be printed 20 inches square and have the detail/sharpness I see on my screen when I click the "plus" icon on the image after downloading it. (In guess I probably should have said your image, when downloaded and "pluss-ed," shows a section of what would be a 20-inch wide rendering of the image prior to download.)
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Dec 28, 2015 18:21:34   #
Let's hear some reports from those with some experience using the new 50 MP Canon, please.
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Dec 28, 2015 15:20:14   #
SteveR wrote:
50mp sensors don't blow me away. Remember, if a D7100 sensor were made into a full frame sensor, it would be a 55mp sensor, and I don't think anybody has had problems with lenses on the the D7100. The question is a non-starter.


Aren't you implying that if a given image is squeezed onto, let's say, a quarter of the area of a 50MP (or 55MP) sensor, the results would be as good as when that image is spread over the whole sensor?
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Dec 25, 2015 09:52:02   #
BrettOssman wrote:
Note: This has to do with point-and-shoots cameras only, not dSLRs.

We've had multiple point-and-shoot cameras that eventually get what looks like sensor dust or dirt spots on photos. Cleaning the lens does not help. These seem to be inside.

These involved multiple makes and models of point-and-shoots, and not necessarily very low-end ones. Mine cost a few hundred dollars.

Any idea on cures or even causes?

We live in Florida, which I understand can cause some odd problems not seen be most others.

TIA
Note: This has to do with point-and-shoots cameras... (show quote)


Sounds (pretty clearly) like dust on the sensor. Do not try to clear it by using the "canned" air products or you will deposit oils from the propellant. there are some Youtube videos giving good walk-throughs on sensor cleaning. The best air blaster seems to be a Giottos Rocket (just under $10). It is a squeeze bulb which filters incoming air (into the bulb). If the air puffing does not complete the job, there is an anti-static brush made for the purpose. (Sorry I do not have a link for the Youtube piece.)
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Dec 17, 2015 08:28:33   #
Rongnongno wrote:
Err..

Kids understand stitch as...

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/fd/7a/e5/fd7ae56b4f1e8f55e0abf9ede7b072ae.jpg

Credits per...


In fairness to Rook, you should have used a capital 'S' for the name Stitch. Of course, when it is spoken, one has to rely on context.
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Dec 16, 2015 15:56:20   #
n3eg wrote:
I'll go with Photomerge. Imagomerge would be even better. Why? For me, it's always been Greek vs. Latin, and I took 4 years of Latin in high school.

Seriously, id est quid est - it is what it is. Call it whatever you want.


It would need another term or two with it to specify the kind of merging known as a stitch.
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Dec 16, 2015 11:37:32   #
ssymeono wrote:
Digital photography has created a new and rather miraculous form of capturing images by allowing us to stitch together hundreds, even thousands of images, that have the potential of revealing with great accuracy vast views. At present, we use the word "stitch" or "photomerge" but it would be better to have a proper term that is also flexible for creating additional terms from it. We have in English a word from ancient Greek that means "stitch", as in "rhapsody", which means "stitched song". After thinking about it for a while, even consulting with a great philologist (my friend Robert Lamberton), we came up with the term "photorapsy" that resembles photography and may also provide the adjective "photoraptic" or even the noun "photorapter", like photographer" and a verb "to photorapt".
Opinions and suggestions for discussion are welcome.
Sarantis
Digital photography has created a new and rather m... (show quote)


'Stitch' (or 'stitching') is the only term I know of which indicates combining or joining images while keeping each intact, thus distinguishing the outcome from all the other forms of combining. In addition, by the established usage of the term, it is implied that the stitched images are matching in the way that the two halves of a single image cut in half would match each other at the joining edge.

So, there is the challenge any replacement term would need to meet to be substituted for 'stitch'.
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Dec 15, 2015 15:04:35   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Isn't 300mm is almost the same as 12 inches? Well it's 11.8 inches but close enough. You can call it a 12 in. lens. Of course it doesn't measure 12 inches or 300mm in any dimension.


Since our lenses are typically multi-element lenses rather than being one element (such as in a hand-held magnifying glass), the stated focal length of our lenses turns out not to be the physical distance from the film plane (or sensor) to some point on the lens body which we might think was its "center." For example, I have one 300mm zoom lens which, when on the camera and zoomed to its 300mm position, extends only about 220mm, measured from the back of the camera (which is not exactly where the sensor plane is, either)--and the optical "center" of the lens is certainly not at the far end of the lens, 220mm (approx.) from the sensor. A 300mm lens with only one element would have its center 300mm away from the sensor when focused at infinity.
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