I have no accurate statistics, however, I would make an educated guess that what with the advanced and sophisticated metering systems in today's digital cameras, the majority of photographers, including serious workers and professionals are not using or depending on handheld exposure meters. There are, however, a significant minority of photographers, including myself, who still find them particularly useful. while not excluding their cameras' internal systems, for many situations and specific applications. I have come to the obvious conclusion, after many years of expereince in calculating all kinds of exposure scenarios, that there is not one kind of meter, metering mode (incident, reflected, or spot metering, on one metering setting in your cameras' menu (spot, average, matrix. etc.) that can address all situations and scenarios or kinds of work at hand. Most importantly, even with the best and most versatile meter or camera in hand, the photographer's metering technique is the most essential component of attaining the correct and most accurate exposure.

Whether you are using your cameras' metering systems or a handheld exposure meter in an incident, reflected, or spot mode, the key to accurate or effective readings is knowing where and how to probe. Of course, there is the prescribed method, with the incident or light meters, to place the meter at the subject and point the lig collect dome at the camera. Theoretically, the come will collet and defuse or miss the light so that is still the subject for all the directions they came can see and an acceptable exposure should result. If, however, the photographer wishes to further analyze the scent or subject, set up lighting ratios in studios environments, measure the effectiveness of a reflector fill with natural or ambient light, measure the effect of a light sstrikomgthe subject for a more extreme angle of incidence, the incident light meter can also be used to make more isolated readings by the use of an interchangeable flat light receptor, a recessed dome, or simply by shading one or more aspects of the dome.

Some incident light metes, mostly older models. had an accessory grid that to would replace the dome and thereby simulate a perfect light meter. Other older mode reflects light meters had an accessory dome or inserts that would convert it for incident light readings. Those older meters were usually analog types with calculator dials that had compensatory markings for these conversions.

Regardless of the meter type you use, YOU are the operator and YOU must learn how to use it effectively. It is merely a light measuring instrument and as much as the manufactures and retailers like to call cameras and meters "intelligent"- they use that little italicized ("I") in the nameplate- your meter has no eyes and no brain. A stethoscope is an instrument that your doctor uses but he or she can't listen to your heart or lungs by placing the stethoscope on your knee. And, if you were not a health professional, you would not know what specific sounds to listen for even if you placed the instrument properly. The doctor would not use a sphygmomanometer to listen to your heart- that tool is for blood pressure measurement. Learn where and how to measure light and use the right meter or metering mode that is appropriate for the job at hand!

The manual for this meter expressly states in section 2.2 to point the meter from the subject towards the camera. That way you will be able to determine how much light is falling on the subject. The dome will provide the reading incidence of the light from the sky and other areas. If you point the meter to the sky or up, you will not get a correct reading and will mostly overexpose the shot. Since many meters can measure can measure flash exposure you still want to point the meter towards the camera as well and the dome will accommodate the correct exposure for the direction that the light is coming from. You do not point the flash function towards the flash unless the flash is on the camera.

The reason for putting the dome in such a position because:
1. It's an dual mode Reflected and Incident meter and using 1 photo cell. For an incident only meter they would put it on the front of the meter.
2. In the case of the Minolta in EL. post the measuring head can be turned for Incident or Reflective.
3. In the case of the Sekonic it seems to have 2 photocells or optic so that you can aim it differently for spot or incident.
4. The Luna Six is similar in design to your meter and thus you would have to do it the same way. If they put the dome in front of the meter then when reading reflective you're looking at the back of the meter rather than the display.

Dome should be up, towards the main light falling on the subject. If the subject is getting sky light, the meter needs to read it.

That being said, incident meters are extremely effective in studio settings, or when you have control over the light, and in situations were you can place and read the meter in the same light as what is illuminating the subject.

They are close to useless shooting wildlife in a blind, a cityscape at night, a night sports event, a stage performance, a moon or night sky shot, etc etc etc. I have relied on reflected meter readings since 2006, but still own two hand-held analog Gossen combo incident/reflected meters that I "occasionally" use - a Lunapro and a Lunapro SBC, which has a flash attachment that works great for setting lighting ratios.