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Posts for: Festina Lente
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Mar 7, 2016 08:22:45   #
joer wrote:
Try a Cactus wireless radio trigger. The pass through works reliably and the manual ones are not expensive.

Each device switchable to a transmitter or a receiver.

Available at B&H Photo.

And Cactus is much less expensive than my Pocket Wizards!
:thumbup: :thumbup:
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Mar 7, 2016 08:16:28   #
donrent wrote:
I would say that its next to impossible for a human eye to tell ANY differance between a $250 filter or a $60 filter, here is where common sense(cents) kicks in..................
Possibly. But I must have inhuman eyes or often sit next to Impossible, as I clearly see the differences.
I even reconfirm that observation each time I get a faster L lens and need one of the larger diameter ($$$) CPLs.
My solution to keep costs down is to use Cokin filters for stationary shooting, and screw mount CPLs for on the fly shooting.
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Mar 7, 2016 07:47:04   #
Mogul wrote:
Welcome back!
Thanks Mogul!
I finally found some downtime.
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Mar 7, 2016 07:40:16   #
DerBiermeister wrote:
I had an interesting conversation with an Acratech engineer on Friday. He said that for the final touch to minimize (maybe eliminate?) shutter vibrations, you simply apply a bit of downward pressure at the end of the lens.
This of course would have to be a "learned" technique.

This is true with longer lenses. Doing it manually however, requires a corpse. 8-)
Placing a hacky sack (or small bean bag) on top of the end of the lens is what I have used to good effect.

Basically, it helps balance the lens towards the front if you have not done so with your mounting.
It also helps dampen articulated vibrations from the ground, breezes, and even the photographer's oh so delicate touch while making adjustments.

But, your Acratech Engineer is correct, it is a final touch.
Get everything else correct first.

Thanks for sharing!! :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Mar 7, 2016 07:23:04   #
:thumbup: :thumbup:
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Mar 7, 2016 07:17:52   #
Ikonomos wrote:
Hi all,
I am a beginner photographer, with a Nikon 610 & a Nikon 24-120, F4 lens.
I am asking for advice on whether it's worth paying about $250 for a Hoya HD3 circular polarising filter or getting a cheaper version.
Also how useful is such a filter.

In a word, no; based on what you said above, it is NOT worth paying $250. Not now anyway, maybe not for years, and maybe not ever.

There are many great posts and resources from UHH members on this site that had the same question that you should read.
The best answers to your question are probably going to be unique to you.
Most members are asking about what they are, when they are useful, and if spending more makes enough of a difference to merit the investment.
These questions tend to have rather personal circumstance and experience answers.

Here is where I would start:
1) First learn about what a polarizing filter is, does and when to use it.
2) Then, if it is something you wish to try, buy an inexpensive one for about $60.
3) Also, realize that you may wish to have one for each different lens depending on what you photograph.

You, and only you, will be able to constructively answer the question you posed, (unless you have $250 you don't need.... :roll: )
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Mar 7, 2016 07:01:30   #
Good question Richard!
No clear answer to this 2012 photographic art versus privacy issue.

But the legal tenant of "reasonable expectation of privacy" combined with profiteering from what in any other less artistic case would be considered under the Peeping Tom laws makes this problematic.
Showing no faces and nothing immediately offensive muddies the legal waters, but at up to $7,500 a print the profit factor will fuel the legal process.

There is a balanced and well written perspective that appeared in the Denver Post (June 2013) that I think summarized the issues involved quite well. Worth a read:
http://www.denverpost.com/lifestyles/ci_29596371/did-arne-svenson-go-too-far-mca-denver
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Mar 6, 2016 09:06:31   #
jerryc41 wrote:
It was late in the day, so it was my attention span that was limited. Actually, I don't know what limit they were talking about. That was the first time I signed into that site, and I had registered a few days before. I'm glad it's being repeated, but I'm sorry I can't record it.
Then perhaps it was your registration period that was limited.
In any event, thanks for posting it!
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Mar 6, 2016 08:58:12   #
Was that your limit on what you can learn from Laura Shoe or a limit on free seminars? :lol:
The devil made me do it Jerry. :twisted:
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Mar 6, 2016 08:55:54   #
qasas3251 wrote:
I'm one of those people that would have the clock on the micro wave or DVD player if my kids or wife find' t fix it. My question is I bought my Canon 7D two plus years ago. I have never up dated the soft ware package that was loaded to the camera since it was purchased. Is this something I should do? Is the latest soft ware really that important that I should up date it?

Yes, I'd update the firmware.
The last major update fixed/enhanced a few esoteric things, but more importantly, it added/enhanced features and added menu options.
It's also much easier than resetting the microwave and DVD clocks!! :lol:
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Mar 6, 2016 08:49:39   #
Thanks!
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Mar 6, 2016 08:48:14   #
Great shot! :thumbup:
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Mar 6, 2016 08:45:24   #
sb wrote:
When citizens of Tucson want to go for a walk or run, they often head to Sabino Canyon. Yesterday morning, although fairly chilly, we found the parking lot to be full and the canyon busy by 9 AM. It allows visitors an up-close look at the Sonoran Desert landscape.

You lucky dog!
I used to visit Tuscon frequently and Sabino was a must visit everytime.
Great shots by the way. :thumbup:
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Mar 6, 2016 08:42:18   #
al davis wrote:
Old timer thank you for the quick response. My thought was exactly that. I have a gimbal on my wish list for B&H. I will have to pull the plug and get this asap. :D :D

Definitely start by getting a decent Gimbal and drop the teleconverter until you get more practice. For the value, I like Induro's GHB2 gimbal.
Also try using one of the tracking autofocus modes for BIF instead of the often fustrating glacial process of tracking and focusing manually.
That will require a sunny day and not using the 1.4 teleconverter (you lose at least 1 f-stop with the TC and that's a lot for shooting BIF.)
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Mar 6, 2016 08:30:44   #
Pablo8 wrote:
I have purchased yet another 'White Elephant' Hot Shoe adapter to PC. I fire the main studio flash, via a wireless adapter slotted into the Hot Shoe of my Nikon D610. The D610 does not have a PC socket outlet (I wonder why).My D300 does have one. The adapter (just supplied from Amazon) is a Vello PC+Top Shoe Converter HSA-PSU. The adapter slots into the D610 Hot Shoe, and the Speedlight flash/ or in my case the Wireless sender unit slots into the adapter. The PC socket in the adapter , is connected to the second flash-head via a plug-in lead. Either flash head will fire singly, but will not fire together, when both are connected. The illustration on the box, shows the two flashes connected, but both flash units will not fire in sync'.
Anybody know of an adapter which will achieve this. I do not hold much faith in little slave units. My past experience of these, is that they seem very unpredictable hit & miss.
Thanks in advance of any help given.
I have purchased yet another 'White Elephant' Hot ... (show quote)
Interesting question. The reviews on B&H Photo for the Vello PC+Top Shoe Converter HSA-PSU are all positive.
I fear the "picture on the box" may be misleading.

If I understand your dilemma correctly, I have always used a Pocket Wizard to accurately sync multiple flashes.
I never tried to do what you are trying to do, so I can only speculate what's happening, like diminished voltage, etc.
On the surface it should work with two identical flashes, I think....

Since I suspect you have already tried everything that I might suggest,
I'll remain curious until someone suggests the suddenly obvious.
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