Thanks, everyone! My dogs thank you, as well! (except for the last one on the right...she thinks photo shoots are stupid). lol. She's the one with opinions but is well-behaved so tries to do what I ask her. But not without giving me that "look". Which is what she's doing behind the sheet. I can tell. :) Attitude.
Well done! Really cool shots!
Suffice it to say this wasn't easy. But they were all good sports and earned plenty of dog treats! Leaves are a Photoshop overlay. No way was I going to add in throwing leaves up in the air. The dogs were already trying to steal the pumpkins and take off each other's sheets. Once they were all still for 10 seconds I fired off the shots.
Great shot! I love their colors and wondered why that speckled look disappears. Thanks for the info and the cool photo!
You really should charge admission! A good bouncer would keep that skunk out, too. :)
Great photos! So important to get kids a close up view of horses. A lot of kids are afraid of them and it teaches them that horses aren't so scary. Love horses and CVNP (I live near). Thanks for sharing.
Steved3604 wrote:
With old film the key is what temperature for how long. Cool/cold and relatively dry are good. Room temperature is OK. Hot attics or out buildings (especially in year round heat) are not so good. Development sooner rather than later is best.
Fairly cool chemistry temps are good -- probably not over 73 degrees. I agree that 20 percent additional time should be helpful on this old film. Also, I would recommend a 2-4 minute water pre-soak to get the (old/dry) emulsion ready for the developer. I just use clean water at about the same temperature as the developer for about 2-4 minutes with light agitation. Be sure to drain all the water out. D76 is a good universal developer or use whatever the manufacturer recommends. A good, long wash to remove all the fixer is suggested -- maybe 50 percent longer than recommended/usual. The negatives will probably have "base fog" due to age. You can probably scan "through" the base fog and hopefully have a useable image. If concerned with all the info and recommendations you can always do a "tail test" of maybe one or two images from the tail of the film at your best guess for all conditions before developing the whole roll. Be sure to get at least one image -- and Mr. Murphy guarantees that you will always cut through the best image and the image you wanted. Good luck and let us know what happens.
With old film the key is what temperature for how ... (
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Great information, thank you!
Thanks to everyone for their advice! I bought the film on eBay so I have no idea how it was stored. The camera takes 2 Rapid cassettes which it didn't come with. I found an empty one and then got the film for the other one. I think it's regular 35mm film but a modern 35mm roll doesn't fit the camera. Pretty sure you can take the film from a regular roll and thread it onto the Rapid cassette if you really wanted to (I don't). Plus it only takes 16 frames.
The camera was from the personal collection of Eaton Lothrop, as was the film. I'm only using the one roll I bought (came in a set of 5) and I'll save the rest as "historic".
I've used microfiber backdrops. They come in different sizes, wash well, fold and store well with few wrinkles. I got mine from Katebackdrop.com. Lots of patterns, sizes, colors. Not sure what you're using the background for but microfiber is good for portraits. Or, as has been suggested, a fabric store is a great place to go for smaller pieces. Just be careful about how much the fabric may wrinkle and how shiny it is.
JohnSwanda wrote:
You could do a snip test on it - cut off a piece of the film maybe three frames or so and develop it. You might lose one frame, but you can see if the rest of the film needs more or less development.
Good idea! I may just do that. Not even sure if the camera works right. It did advance the film as it was supposed to but beyond that, I have no idea. So if the film doesn't turn out, how do I know if it's the film or the camera?
Steve DeMott wrote:
Here's an interesting post for that type of film & developing
https://www.flickr.com/groups/diybw/discuss/72157618256045837
Interesting, thank you! I'm still fairly new to regular film developing so it's interesting to learn about old film. Thanks again for the link! Helpful!
PixelStan77 wrote:
I would add 20 increase in development time to compensate for film age.
Thanks! I was looking online and some people did recommend that and others said they developed normally. So I wanted opinions from people here. I think I will go with the increase in development time, as you suggest. Thanks!
I have an Agfa Isoflash Rapid (1960's) that I'm testing to see if it works. I used Agfa Isopan ISS film (ASA200), expired in 1967. I'm developing myself so I'm wondering if I should change anything, or just develop as I normally do. I've never developed anything that old. (considering I was born in the 60's I guess that makes me old, too). Don't know if the camera even works (definitely not a quality camera!), but I'm not expecting great things from the film, it's all just for fun. Thanks for any developing advice you can give me!
Wow! Really cool shots! Cicadas are creepy but these shots are very well done. When I was a kid I'd collect their shells and put them in my purse. Would not catch me doing that now! The last shot is excellent on download (they all are!). But I love that last one. Nice work.
Lucky you! I've only seen it one time around here and it flew away so never got a pic. But the pileated woodpecker...once they find your suet, they may take up residence. That's what happened with mine. I now have both male and female year round and they bring their baby in spring. Never had them until they found the suet feeders! So hope yours sticks around. But...buy a LOT of suet! They eat a ton!