Thanks for the thumbs up uhaas2009

Thanks for the reply and the link hcmcdole, I can only wish for a 500 f4. Regis has shown the R5 with a 800 /f11 + 2X = 1600 to be excellent IQ hand held, with auto focus. My rather silly attempt would be the poor man's special.

I do not know of a remote control camera that can render better IQ than that which is shown. I do not see this set up as expensive. A 400mm f/5.6 costs less than $800, Yongnuo 2X tc less than $200, a Canon extension tube less than $60 and a Canon 1.4 less than $300 total $1360. Useful or practical not really, but 1200mm made from parts most have in their kit already. If you find yourself in a situation where more "reach" is required, don't be afraid of throwing it all together. Of course by the time you assemble all the parts, you will be searching for the location where your subject was. I just can't bring myself to part with $12K for an 800 5.6, and for some reason the wife thinks we need a new car more than a R5 with a RF 800 and a RF 2x.

I did not. Heat shimmer was not a noticeable problem either (winter temps bring cool clear air here) Noise on the other hand is a problem. The strength of noise reduction required destroys the detail I look for with the 5DSR.

Thanks for replying quixdraw, and a bit clumsy I must agree. I must have missed your post last August. If I try again it will be from a tripod.

Ever wonder what stacked "TC" would look like? I did. Knowing this setup will be manual focus and will need lots of light, I wondered if this setup could be used in the field, hand held. A week ago or so someone posted something about doing this, but there were no photo's included. This post includes a couple of pic's at 1200mm and one at 400mm cropped to match for comparison.

This setup is 400 5.6 + 2 tc + 12mm extension tube + 1.4 tc = 1200mm f11 or so the camera says (400 5.6 + 2x is f11 add another loss for the 1.4 resulting in f14 or there about). The camera data records this as 800mm f11. I tried to do this using my 100 - 400 mkll resulting in camera error (loss of contact with the lens). Conventional wisdom supports loss of IQ using a TC and noticeable loss of IQ using a 2X. Then there is the manual focus thing and the magnification of camera shake at 1200mm. None of these problems reared their ugly head, but the light meter missed its mark overexposing by enough to blow highlights. These images were captured Raw and after adjusting for exposure exported to jpeg using photoshop. It should be noted here, this is not a definitive comparison, only the result of my minimal effort.

A fun little experiment, but for me 400mm and crop. 1200mm is a very narrow field of view resulting difficulty in acquiring the subject and auto focus is sooo much faster.

the setup

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Western Blue Bird 1200mm hand held manual focus

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Western Blue Bird 400mm hand held autofocus and cropped to match

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Western Blue Bird in the shadow of a tree, 1200mm hand held manual focus

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But...did you catch any fish?.... Best wishes have merry Christmas and recover soon

And that is just not true. Good old right wing lies. How about posting a link to that CDC review.

Have you ever made an error when using the erase command? You do not see older users as being more prone to making mistakes than younger users(referencing teck in general and data manipulation in particular)? Your response indicates to me that you are swimming in the apple world, not floundering in the windows pond. My impression from the OP's writing was that he uses Windows. Disk Manager make partitioning of a large disk very simple, and disk copy with ec checked makes coping the files a piece of cake. If interrupted for any reason it is straight forward to return and pickup where you left off. When connected the external drive's directory tree will appear the same as if all the older drives were connected and the pictures will be where you left them. The safety I refer to is the layer of protection from user error not drive failure. Anybody can mess-up anything anytime, partitioning confines the damage. The other big advantage is speed. NTDS stores data bits all over the drive requiring extensive drive head movement. Partitioning confines the area available thus limiting head travel and increasing read/right times noticeable. Of course the down side of this running out of room on a drive, which is why I recommend making the partitions/drives a bit bigger than the HD's he wants to consolidate.

The original question was how to put all the data in one place (in this case a large drive) instead of multiple locations (numerous external drives). The old drives remain intact as part of a safety system. The use of partition on the large drive has several advantages over the use of a file system, speed and safety are the main ones. Absolutely a raid is a better way, but that was not the question. Leaving the original disks intact mitigates the risk of data loss some what, and the use of partition over file system enhances use. Limiting head travel speed's up data retrieval and partitioning is the way to accomplish this. Use the file system method and spread data all over the drive, resulting in more head travel. Remember the trick of partitioning the core track and sector's for near ssd speeds.

Except for the fact that file structure is easily corruptible, and prone to user error, you are correct. The smarter and safer method especially for older users is to partition.

If I understand what you want to do: I would use the partition command to create partitions a bit bigger than the drives you plan to copy . All your older stuff backed up/ copied to the new drive. everything in one place.

be sure you are printing on the correct side of the paper!!!

very good pic Sinewsworn, Look at the beak not a seed eater beak. If you look again at the sparrow in Merlin you notice the seed eater beak. You have a very good picture of a Kinglet . Better than most.

My second attempt at a Challenge free Sunday, maybe some of these from last week will be acceptable.

My oldest son was glad to see me......

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Turkey vulture in tree inspired the message

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