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Posts for: olemikey
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Jun 17, 2023 09:08:01   #
JonathanChemE wrote:
My niece may have an opportunity to acquire a used D800E from her late great uncle’s estate at a bargain price with some good lenses. She is a beginner but shoots mainly for a local newspaper. She does no post processing now but is planning to take a course. Would this be good for her or would it potentially just frustrate her? This question is mainly for Nikon users and I don’t know much about this camera other than what I read at the BH site. Right now she uses a CanonT100.


It will be fine for her. I highly suggest one of the books by Darrel Young or David Busch (How to use D800) very inexpensive from used book sites, as they would help her along on the journey.
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Jun 7, 2023 17:28:24   #
Gianfranco47 wrote:
I have already reassembled all since I use the 200mm now without any problem on quality of photos , in all cases my thanks for your help


Good job, glad it worked out.
m
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Jun 7, 2023 12:57:47   #
Gianfranco47 wrote:
Above you can see which lens is affected by fungus and the Nikon code number to order the group lens ( no more available by Nikon )


Gianfranco, can you post a pic of the lens elements in question? .....we may be able to answer better on viability/usefulness of lens in current state (with dead fungus inner layers) and repair thoughts....macro would be good, but a closeup with good lighting will be helpful.
m
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Jun 7, 2023 09:14:03   #
Basil wrote:
Admittedly I’m still relatively new to the R5, and I have not read the entire manual yet, just parts of it. However, I thought I understood the video stuff enough to at least allow me to shoot some basic video…but no, apparently not. I hope I can explain this adequately. I'm just posting my frustrating lesson in case it might help others new to the R5 avoid the same mistake. (and yes, I know it was my bad for not reading the manual more thoroughly)

We went to Denver last week to attend our Grand Niece’s High School graduation. I had put the R5 into the Video Mode by pressing the “Mode” button, then the "Info" button on the R5. Once in the Video Mode I put the camera in Video AV video mode, then went into the menu Camera (red), tab #1 “Movie rec quality.” and set it for 4K-D 29.97P IPB. (Basically 4K 30FPS).

However, I knew that if I was in Photo Mode I could still press the record button and start recording video. Yes, I was able to do that during the ceremony, and I thought I was recording at 4K AV mode, 30FPS since that's how I had the settings set when I was in Video Mode. However, when I got home and pulled my video into FCP, I discovered that all my video had been shot at 120FPS which means, not only was it slow motion, but there was no sound. Useless!

Later, when I was home, I discovered that if I’m in normal “Picture” Mode (in this case AV) and I press the little light bulb button that’s just to the right of the top LCD screen, I can pull up those additional setting information, which included video settings. That screen showed that, even after having put the video settings to 30FPS, when I switched to Photo Mode and pressed the record button to shoot some video, the video settings were not what I expected. The video was in “M” mode (manual) 4K-D 119.9FPS (120FPS).

My first stop was the manual, where I this innocent little note:

“* You can record movies by pressing the movie shooting button during still photo shooting.”
* Movies recorded in [A+] shooting mode are recorded with A+ mode quality. Movies recorded in shooting modes other than [A+] are recorded with [C3p] mode.

Apparently, for some reason (unknown to me) I had the movie settings for C3 video mode set to 120fps. Thus, if I was in the stills mode, when I pressed the record button to record a movie, the movie would be recorded with the C3 video settings, in this case 4K-D 120FPS!! Arrgggg!

All I had to do then was go into C3 while in the Video Mode and set the settings I wanted, then re-register those settings to C3. Problem solved. It’s one of those little “gotchas” that can bite you in the backside if you’re not aware of it (which I wasn’t, but now I am). Hopefully this experience will help someone else new to the R5 avoid the same screw up.

Lesson learned.
Admittedly I’m still relatively new to the R5, and... (show quote)


Florida weather (and lack of planning) hit our grandsons graduation, heavy rain/rain for the entire procedure, no planned rain date or venue, no covered viewing area, bad lighting, all in all a big mess. even with umbrellas and panchos everyone was soaked. At least you could see the action reasonably well, we could not.
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Jun 7, 2023 09:07:07   #
UV-C light is a fungus killer....as is setting the affected lenses in direct sunlight for hours (Placed directly in sunlight, if lens still intact, set lens so that sunlight travels all the way through it, wide open apeture - make sure it is not over something flamable in case of "magnifying glass effect" - same with UV-C light, UV light needs to hit all internal areas of the lens if possible). Yes fungus is alive, but there are methods to kill it, and definitely ways to keep it from coming back - damage from the fungus exploits is the harder part.

Low humidity is a real requirement for storing lenses. Hydrogen Peroxide and 91% alcohol (or higher) are both effective cleaners, and they will not damage glass coatings. The lenses can be separated, cleaned and reglued, glue type would need research. If the inner contact surfaces (where glued) are not damaged to the point of affecting photos, then the UV-C direct light application should stop the advance of the fungus. Make sure you get light classified as UV-C light spectrum, that is a known killer of fungus, mold spores and even insects. Good luck with the effort. Don't go cheap on the UV-C light, heck you can use it to treat entire rooms (like during the pandemic).
(I've had success myself on the fungus front, it takes work, but can be stopped, cleaned, removed).
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May 1, 2023 07:44:29   #
Dan Thornton wrote:
The migratory birds are passing through and have been for a little while. Other than the indigo buntings, there are a couple of female painted buntings. The only shots of the female painted buntings I have so far have been on the feeder. I have only seen one male painted bunting so far. I hope you enjoy and thanks for viewing.


Very fine set, really enjoyed it - we get them passing thru (our yard) during migration...the Painted Buntings that winter with us (approx 20 individuals/several family groups, male/female/youngsters) don't chase them off the feeders like they do others - they are fiesty little rascals!!
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Apr 28, 2023 08:33:27   #
bcheary wrote:
https://www.dailyo.in/news/a-900-feet-deep-blue-hole-has-been-discovered-off-mexico-coast-what-is-it-39572


Alien spaceship launch/landing port. . .........
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Apr 24, 2023 10:48:18   #
Cindy - Make use of the rainy day for some indoor or covered outdoor testing..the lack of "stellar" lighting and added ability to lock down your test gear may solve/address several factors = lighting, ISO influence, shake and vibration, shutter/aperature, VR affect, TC influence, etc. etc. in a semi-laboratory setting. Applying what you know and what has been mentioned by others should answer a lot of your own questions about your equipment and technique. The nice thing about testing with digital is the immediate review capability, which coupled with some note taking may help nail the conclusions.... At any rate, take all you know and add what others have mentioned and do some thorough testing! I know it works for me and has helped me to refine equipment and technique over the decades. Good luck in your quest!!!
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Apr 23, 2023 10:59:26   #
CindyHouk wrote:
The TC is the Nikon AF-S TC-14E III new but I guess it could be a bad one. Good idea to test with a different lens as well.


And any vibration/movement (even the soft push on shutter button) can and will make a difference, usually for worse..... good luck and keep trying!!!!
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Apr 23, 2023 10:24:12   #
We may crap up our local environments, and pollute the crap out of everything, poison our own drinking water, foul our air, etc. etc. etc. but he's right, we are just one tick tock from catastrophy (even on a planetary scale) each day.....the earth looks at us like a virus....and one day it will all change, perhaps end (for us). I will go on being the best steward I can on my little acre, when time is up (either mine or ours) I'll go on to the next life, and I won't be late....... ......
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Apr 23, 2023 09:50:14   #
CindyHouk wrote:
I am using a nikon d500 with the Nikor 200-500 and the Nikon TC 14E III. I am having a hard time getting critters in focus using the TC at the top end of 500mm .... anyone have any experience with this setup? I have tried with single point focus as well as group focus settings and I was using a tripod as well, the vc was off. I have had the TC now for a few months and just can't seem to get good shots using it. I have messed around with various shutters speeds as well as ISO's....so is it me - is there something that I am doing wrong or is it the TC?

I only opened these photo's in the Photo's program so that I could save them as jpg's to upload.
I am using a nikon d500 with the Nikor 200-500 and... (show quote)


To my eyes nothing is in focus. The suggestion to do a manual test session is a good one...test with and without TC....and try the TC with another (known sharp) lens as a test also. The suggestion to check the plus/minus focus adjustment (with a known good lens) .... then with the 200-500 with/without TC should tell you what is causing the issue. If the lens alone is sharp and operates correctly then the TC is looking suspicious. The shots do remind me of using a poor/low quality TC years ago.....so test, test test!!!!!
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Apr 15, 2023 21:31:28   #
larryepage wrote:
The D500 does have the 1.3X format option. Selecting it also increases the buffer from 22 exposures to 30 exposures. The image area is indicated by a "wireframe" indicator, not a mask as in the D850. Images are about 11.6 MP, close to those of a D300.


That DX 11.6mp in the center of a good lens will yield a mighty fine shot, and with todays AI processing, even better, I use that capability for Painted Buntings, Carolina Wrens and smaller natcatchers and such with my D7100, the close up effect and good technique can more than make up for the paltry 11.6mp. it also works very well with my Nikon1V1. The flange distance coupled with and longer lens of good quality yields a frame filling small bird at 2.7X.... .... We have these options, they can help us make wonderful photos...never mind the specs.....
I know from exp. that BIF is a greater challenge, and compromises for wildlife portraits may not work there...but, it's fun trying!
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Apr 15, 2023 09:20:57   #
You have received great lens advice, spot on I'd say......depending on your mobility - stealth is your friend, learn to be photo sneaky!! If you observe the birds when they are stalking/hunting, or a cat in hunting mode, generally it is slow, methodical & unobtrusive movements that allow closing the distance to your pray (till they spring)....that will help you to close the distance as well. Blinds are another simple and very successful tool - even sitting/crouching under an umbrella works with songbirds/others (and can help you keep cool in hot climates/protect from rain) and the insertion of artificial light, flash/strobe/even floodlight under trees and such, does not bother most birds, or other creative lighting in smaller environments, under tree canopy, reflected light, etc..

I have used a 7.5' & 9' market/deck umbrella with mosquito netting around it here in florida, actually works well, and during summer in wooded environments can keep the skeeters off as well. I have and use the Tamron, and zoom is helpful, but the Nikon 500 (and possibly matching 1.4TC) should do very well indeed. If the D500 allows for FOV change (like the 1.3 X mode in D7xxx series) that can get you closer as well, and with target in lens center the loss of some pixels may not matter (try it and make your own determination).
Good luck and good hunting!!
My $.02
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Apr 14, 2023 08:54:41   #
Curmudgeon wrote:
So back to the To Be Posted Folder


Really like these!! It has been blowing for days here in Florida, even to the point of gale force along the Spacecoast and north.
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Apr 14, 2023 08:51:51   #
To my understanding and from usage ( I hope my explanation attempt makes sense) any device (tube/adapter) that increases the distance between lens and sensor (without a corrective lens element) would indeed change the Field Of View, if it increases the flange distance it will act as a zoom would, multiplying the image size to some degree. I use this trick with zooms (adding manual/auto extension tubes) to effectively increase image size that hits the sensor....it is helpful with small birds, but does change the range of "in focus", meaning loss of infinity - if shooting in a setting where that is of no concern (example - you need focus from 5 to 20 feet or somesuch, extension tube would give this, while increasing the size of the image hitting the sensor). depending on tube/adapter length it could cause some light falloff. As always no "free lunch" with equipment comprimises.
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