This is a repost of one of my comments on Africa.

First, search UHH for African Safari info. There are a lot of topics and posts that are invaluable.

I just got back from a trip to S. Africa and Namibia. A bit different situation in that (I think) animals in Kenya are in a more open environment, thus more movement. Right now, it is summer. That means that the bulk of the animals will be looking for water at watering holes rather than puddles...thus it is easier to get photos of them. (Again...different parts of the continent..so take that into account.) I absolutely positively recommend that you take two bodies. It can get very very dusty quickly. No way of changing lenses in the back of a safari vehicle. I had two micro 4/3 bodies...one with a 12-100 Pro Oly and the other with a 100-400 Leica Panasonic. I used the 12-100 most of the time, but did need the reach on a few occasions. The combo was perfect. (This will also be determined by where you go and if your guide can drive off the roads..in some instances we were allowed to and in others, we were not.) I recommend the 24-104 and the 100-400. Using a 2x crop factor that was a total of 24 to 800! Also, as mentioned, some people take a Sony bridge camera. I would think this would work well too. Maybe next time for me.

Also, I set up a pre-determined custom setting so that if there were action type shots, I could press a button and put my camera into a shutter priority- auto ISO- focus tracking - high speed mode. I used it once at a cheetah run. Usually I was either manual or A priority.

Animals get active at night...but often, game drives are not allowed at night. When the sun starts setting, you will quickly find that it gets dark and the limits of your camera will be tested. (As I said, mine was an M4/3 so I had more limitations than you.) You really have to bump up the ISO to get any kind of shots.

People think they are going to go to Africa and get Nat Geo pics...it may happen, but for the most part the photos will be memorable, but not Nat Geo quality. To do that you have to spend many many hours / days watching / tracking animals. You might get lucky to see a predator / prey chase or something, but don't count on it.

Take a pocket rocket, several lens pens, micro cloths and cleaning solution to deal with the dust. I had to clean my cameras, almost like guns, at the end of the day. On one game drive in the desert, they were covered in white powdery dust.

There are people in Africa! Interesting, wonderful people! I prefer people photography to animal photography any day of the week...including Africa. Do what you can to do some cultural adventures...meet the people. You wont be sorry.

Finally, once in a while, just put the camera down and enjoy the experience. The animals, etc...constantly looking through a view finder is no way to experience the place. Enjoy.

This is a repost of one of my comments on Africa.

First, search UHH for African Safari info. There are a lot of topics and posts that are invaluable.

I just got back from a trip to S. Africa and Namibia. A bit different situation in that (I think) animals in Kenya are in a more open environment, thus more movement. Right now, it is summer. That means that the bulk of the animals will be looking for water at watering holes rather than puddles...thus it is easier to get photos of them. (Again...different parts of the continent..so take that into account.) I absolutely positively recommend that you take two bodies. It can get very very dusty quickly. No way of changing lenses in the back of a safari vehicle. I had two micro 4/3 bodies...one with a 12-100 Pro Oly and the other with a 100-400 Leica Panasonic. I used the 12-100 most of the time, but did need the reach on a few occasions. The combo was perfect. (This will also be determined by where you go and if your guide can drive off the roads..in some instances we were allowed to and in others, we were not.) I recommend the 24-104 and the 100-400. Using a 2x crop factor that was a total of 24 to 800! Also, as mentioned, some people take a Sony bridge camera. I would think this would work well too. Maybe next time for me.

Also, I set up a pre-determined custom setting so that if there were action type shots, I could press a button and put my camera into a shutter priority- auto ISO- focus tracking - high speed mode. I used it once at a cheetah run. Usually I was either manual or A priority.

Animals get active at night...but often, game drives are not allowed at night. When the sun starts setting, you will quickly find that it gets dark and the limits of your camera will be tested. (As I said, mine was an M4/3 so I had more limitations than you.) You really have to bump up the ISO to get any kind of shots.

People think they are going to go to Africa and get Nat Geo pics...it may happen, but for the most part the photos will be memorable, but not Nat Geo quality. To do that you have to spend many many hours / days watching / tracking animals. You might get lucky to see a predator / prey chase or something, but don't count on it.

Take a pocket rocket, several lens pens, micro cloths and cleaning solution to deal with the dust. I had to clean my cameras, almost like guns, at the end of the day. On one game drive in the desert, they were covered in white powdery dust.

There are people in Africa! Interesting, wonderful people! I prefer people photography to animal photography any day of the week...including Africa. Do what you can to do some cultural adventures...meet the people. You wont be sorry.

Finally, once in a while, just put the camera down and enjoy the experience. The animals, etc...constantly looking through a view finder is no way to experience the place. Enjoy.

The best bet is to adjust settings for best results after the 1st shot. Depending on lens and the light, if adequate, I would start with shutter speed preferred mode, 1/focal length or 2/focal length (if hand held with stabilization or on tripod) for speed, auto ISO.

I am not familiar with your camera, but on mine you put the camera in the mode you want, set it the way you want, then use the Menu to store the current settings to C1 or C2. After that, each time you go to the C1 or c2 mode it will set the camera that way.