Use an Android Cable. I feel your pain. I have numerous Seagate Expansion and GoFlex Drives, Toshiba and just bought a WD. All the External USB drive give me problems (but then so do eSATA). In addition to the advice of others to plug it into a different computer, or "Shuck" the bare drive from the enclosure, a Seagate tech once suggested I use a standard Android USB Micro-USB and plug it into the small side. of the connector slot. The Newer USB 3.0 Interfaces are problematic with many computer chipsets. It only works at USB 2.0 speed, but it allowed me to see the files, which told me it wasn't the drive. Some of my Docking stations rarely work under USB 3.0 or eSATA, but will under a USB 2.0 white printer cable.

I'm thinking of presentation devices and apps such as AirParrot which can allow a PC to talk to AppleTV.

While WiFi will be convenient, add a hard wire junction box as a fail-safe, if possible. Screen Mirroring, Casting, and AppleTV, that rely on WiFi and Bluetooth can work nicely for still images and PowerPoint advances, but often fall short when the 30 fps of video is needed.

Don't use the word combination "Green Screen" to describe your issue, otherwise you'll get unrelated "ChromaKey" advice. Best that you Google all relevant keywords and describe it as "no Video" black or greenish colored video. There is much written about this common affliction depending on how your PPT is set up and what media player & codecs are launching to play the video and whether hardware acceleration is ON in your display settings. You can Google... "disable hardware acceleration" for PPT2010 & Win7. While you may want it to speed other programs, the graphics card may not have current mp4 codecs, and software may work better.

As someone suggested, reformat in camera, but since it may not recognize the current size or format, it can't. Look up the camera specs and get the size it can accept. Original SD (SDSC) cards were only 2 GB probably FAT16. Fat 32 (SDHC) allowed up to 32 GB, ExFAT (SDXC) and NTSF are larger, but older hardware won't recognize them. Get the right size card and format in your computer to the correct File Format. Can you view the images from the SD card on the camera playback screen or viewfinder/monitor? You mentioned a MicroSD card. Old Sonys probably didn't accept those, so you may be using an adaptor which could also cause problems. Use a full size SD card. And don't listen to those snobs who say you should get newer equipment. Old stuff is fine and I'll trade you a couple VHS or MiniDV or Digital 8 tapebased camcorders for your confused Sony handycam.

When a laptop or desktop doesn't see a card or reader, a cold re-boot will sometimes allow it to connect. (speaking of PC & Windows... not exactly Plug n Play)

USB3 devices are not an exact science yet. Due to several chipsets, you may have varying results with various combinations. I bought the Tech Republic card reader and it doesn't work reliably for me on 6 different computers and 4 different PCI-e cards. My older Asus mobos used an onboard USB chipset that is finicky. This week, I was transferring GoPro type footage to a laptop. The MicroSD card reader that was not a blue USB3 was 4x slower. Thanks to reviews on Amazon or Newegg, you can see what the chances of success will be.

As I think this is a photography forum, and I have the FZ60 and FZ200, I Googled the words... dmc-fz60 rubber eyecup... and found a few options...
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS703US703&ei=SntGWtzWC8iL0wLtxbqoDw&q=dmc-fz60+rubber+eyecup&oq=dmc-fz60+rubber+eyecup&gs_l=psy-ab.12..0i71k1l4.0.0.0.15536.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.6FEurVtVD9s

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3715062

Hopefully an elegant and easy solution exists from the past 4 years of owners wanting the same thing.

Dyslexic people like me often often transpose our camera model numbers. Both models have been mentioned and sensor engines vary sharply. I've used both.
The D60 is 15 years old. The 60D is 7 years old. Confirm your model# and folks who own it will be better able to give you realistic expectations of grain at various ISO.

The original question from WERG asked about Google Photo, not Gmail. If he is referring to Google Photos (not Photo), that is a web repository where the your collection of uploaded photos reside.Using this method, you can share a link via email with any number of images which would have exceeded your email size allotment. (Google... Google Photos)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmyVLxdU8Bs

Is the HDD powered separately or via USB? If possible power it separately, use a shorter heavy duty cable (12") and try other USB Ports. And yes, as mentioned above, look under "Disk Management" to see if Windows sees the hardware, but hasn't assigned a Drive Letter. Another path is to search for the word DISK (lower left of screen near Windows icon) and choose "Create and format hard disk partitions". You may see the Volume below but not in the summary on top which have drive letters assigned. Your experience is typical of external USB drives from most companies (Seagate too). The USB ports on Laptops don't have enough power to both spin the drive and communicate. Your desktop should work better with a shorter cable. Power the drive before attaching the data cable.

Yes, it looks like it focused further away. When I first got my 60D I was expecting very high resolution results compared to my bridge cameras. I was disappointed. Once I found out about the "Magnification" Button, I could see that the auto focus or even my own manual focus with bad eyes was missing the mark. Once you hit 10X Mag, it will be clear, what is IN Focus. Fortunately by now, there is much online about how to adjust focus on this 7 year old camera. Even with kit lenses, it is still smarter than me. I know 10X more than the people around me and about 5% of what this camera can do... despite lusting over the added features of the 70 & 80D... or mirrorless equivalents. (the above assumes your diopter was adjusted to your eye to see menus & focus, and what is that AF-ON button for?)

I found a Battery Eliminator (DC Coupler) that allows AC to power the battery compartment. I use similar on an older FZ150 when on tripods recording video.

This model seems to fit the FZ2500 battery and could be adapted with a big enough hammer saw soldering gun and hot glue gun to an external battery of choice. Just use the battery eliminator module with DC female receptacle. Sounds like a new safari vest with a pocket and extra batteries would be easy too.

https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Panasonic-DMW-AC8PP-DMC-FZ200-DMC-FZ1000/dp/B005P6Q5XK

In the category of info you can use: Buy the SDHC 32 GB max, since its FAT file system will be more compatible with other devices that may need to read the card later. This is an example... SanDisk Extreme PRO 32GB UHS-I/U3 SDHC, or this Silicon Power 32GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-3 Superior Pro for under $18.
You won't need the extra speed for HD video, but since you will be taking stills of fleeting events, you could shoot in burst mode to increase the chance of getting the best expressions and slices of time. The UHS-3 card should allow faster recovery times after filling the camera buffer. (My 4K camcorders won't even record 4K using a UHS-1 card (which is already Class 10)

In the category of TMI: I have a Canon 60D (similar to your T5i). The 11 minute video limit is a problem shooting lectures non-stop. Not seeing an audio VU meter while recording is also scary. If you're ever feeling wild & crazy, research and install Magic Lantern on your SD card which adds many useful features to the body like auto-start every time the video file stops and live audio VU meters. I was initially wanting the ability to do more than 3 exposures during bracketing like the $4,000 bodies (5D) which do 9. This research would be well after the graduation project.

After 3 years of following the MAIN UHH, I just learned of the other sections today due to a post showing the other SECTIONS. My main business is Video, so I'm glad I finally see the light. I never explored this site before, though I often heard references to more appropriate sections for a person's post.