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Posts for: steveg48
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Apr 1, 2019 14:27:07   #
WIHorseman wrote:
I’m looking for some advice on purchasing a reliable cost effective panning Ballhead and related hardware. I realize RRS is great gear but they sure are shy about asking you to pay an arm and a leg for the gear. Does anyone have suggestions for a less costly alternative. I plan on using it with a L-Plate, my D850 and a Nikon f2.8 24-70 ED VR as my primary choice of attached gear. Should I just bite the bullet or is there a reliable alternative. Thanks


I have a RRS tripod and RRS ballhead that can pan. However, I purchased a RRS Panning clamp which sits on top of the ballhead. The reason this is a good configuration is that the panning element is the panning clamp. So all you have do is level the panning clamp by adjusting the ball head. It does not matter if the tripod legs are not level. The easiest way to do this is to put my Nikon D810 in live view and use the camera leveling display. The important point,IMO, is not that the gear is RRS but the use of a panning clamp on top of the ballhead.
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Mar 27, 2019 16:19:27   #
streetglide12 wrote:
Good evening,
I have been doing manual photography for about a year. I have attended a few adult junior college classes on using manual. One of the adult students mentioned Serge Ramelli courses as a way to use my learning on a higher level. I researched the reviews about his system and they were 50/50 on using it. I trust the expertise here for solid advice. Thank you for your time.


Serge Ramelli deals mostly with post-processing as opposed to straight photography. He is adept at self-promotion. However, he has many free tutorials on you tube that can be useful. You can definitely pick up good information from these tutorials without purchasing his courses or presets. He would not be my first choice as an instructor.
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Mar 19, 2019 14:45:29   #
Chris T wrote:
Here's the scenario - you take delivery of a new DSLR, and not wanting to have to fiddle about with settings - you decide to set it on AUTO ISO and just go out and shoot, to get a feel for your new toy, before you get into all of the elaborate settings, and the whys and wherefores. Then, someone asks you to post a photo - one you consider great - and you do - and then find, to your dismay, the camera chose to use a ridiculously high ISO on a bright sunny day. Now, here's the thing - there's NO NOISE evident. So, exactly what does the camera know - you don't? … Do you know what I mean? … Maybe, the electronics of your new toy - are sophisticated enough - to impose a high ISO without YOU trying to rein it in, and to do so - well. So, what are we missing here, in this puzzle? Do we artificially try to put a hold on the camera's CPU / electronics - when - in fact - the engineers who designed these computer-aided photo-taking instruments - know better?
Here's the scenario - you take delivery of a new D... (show quote)


You don’t mention what your settings were and what mode you were in. If, for example, you are at f22 and 1/1000 of a second in manual mode the camera might choose a high iso to get a proper exposure. Are you sure there’s no noise? Look in the darker tones at 100%.
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Mar 11, 2019 14:17:46   #
Once you are at f16 or smaller aperture (f32 for example), diffraction will occur and soften the image.
The options are to:
1 shoot at the hyperfocal distance which should give “acceptable” sharpness
2 focus stack at a normal f stop-say f8. This will give a tack sharp image if done properly
3 use a tilt-shift lens which will also give a tack sharp image at f8bor f2.8 if done properly.
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Mar 7, 2019 16:19:38   #
Not correct , should be 30mp/(1.6 squared)=30mp/2.56=11.7mp.
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Mar 6, 2019 16:19:08   #
I shoot in manual most of the time. Both of my cameras - Nikon d810 and Sony A7rii have live histograms so I set my exposure to push the histogram to the right. One big advantagev(for me) is that the exposure is fixed,- so I don’t have to worry about locking it.
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Mar 5, 2019 15:33:53   #
If you are in manual mode and auto iso, the camera will adjust the iso, if it can, so that the viewfinder exposure indicator reads 0.
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Mar 5, 2019 15:32:18   #
In manual mode, I wouldn’t say exposure compensation overrides the meter. What it does is change where the indicator reads 0. If you are in auto iso it would affect what iso is required to drive the meter to 0.
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Dec 10, 2018 08:40:57   #
All things being equal a full frame camera will give you shallower depth of field. This only becomes an issue if you want the subject to be in focus and the
Background blurred. This is an artistic choice.
https://neilvn.com/tangents/full-frame-vs-crop-sensor-cameras-comparison-depth-of-field/
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Jul 7, 2018 10:27:54   #
It doesn't hurt to post-process first - do basic adjustments - and then convert to black and white. There are different ways to convert to black and white in Photoshop: gradient map, channel mixer, black and white adjustment layer and others. Generally - desaturation is not used. The key point is that, in my opinion, you need to continue post-processing after you convert to black and white. For example if you use the black and white adjustment layer, there are sliders for the underlying colors so that their effect on the overall image can be individually tweaked.
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Jul 7, 2018 10:19:47   #
The best ND filters don't have color casts. They are more expensive. You get what you pay for.
There are two reasons I use ND filters
1. For long exposures-to smooth out clouds or water. Typically use a 10 or 16 stop filter.
2. In daylight If I want to shoot with a shall depth of field,- for some reason).
If I am shooting at f2.8, for example and it is bright out I will have to use a fast shutter speed to get the correct exposure.
You will find that you may max out your camera. For example you need 1/8000 sec but the camera only goes to 1/4000 sec.
If you use a 4 stop filter you will then be able to use a speed of 1/500 to get a correct exposure and have shallow depth of field.
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Jul 1, 2018 07:21:10   #
Cheese wrote:
Thanks for the response. I too shoot in manual, but while the camera settings are the same, there are light variations as you swivel around, particularly for things like large continuous expanses of sky, etc. So you stitch these and try to smooth out color variations in PP?


Here's the trick. I suggest you pan through the entire scene before shooting and set the exposure so that the highlights in the brightest position don't blow out. Shoot in manual exposure mode so that the exposure will not change. Do not use a polarizer because it will have different effects at different angles.
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Jun 24, 2018 11:05:13   #
camerapapi wrote:
In very simple terms it is the closest and farther distance in focus for a given aperture.

It is a specific distance, not a range of distances.
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Jun 24, 2018 07:39:50   #
When you focus on something at the hyperfocal distance (say 10 feet, for example), everything from half of the hyperfocal distance ( 5 ft) to infinity will be ‘acceptably’ sharp. If you want even sharper focus throughout that range, then you can focus stack.
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Jun 20, 2018 09:14:30   #
magpix wrote:
Some photographers feel it is necessary to not only make sure your camera is perfectly level before you begin your pano sweep, but that you must have your lens' nodal point directly in line with the center of pivot. I used to use the Kaidan Kiwi-L bracket, shown here, to achieve this, but it was an extra thing to carry and at the end of the day, I really didn't notice much of a difference in the final stitched shot. In fact, I just put it on e-Bay, where I found a few other ones listed. RRS and other tripod/ballhead manufacturers sell similar items, but I don't think they're necessary. As others have mentioned, just make sure your tripod base is level before you start, and you should be OK.
Some photographers feel it is necessary to not onl... (show quote)


Getting the right nodal point is only 'necessary' if there is an object in the foreground. The purpose is to eliminate artifacts caused by parralax.
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