You missed my point. I have no images I took with each cemra for a comparison. Both of these images were post pocessed in Aperture with the same color space and the same image size. I used these tow becasue they have a similar type of image. My point to show them as a computer viewed image is that if you are showing your images on a computer screen, you will find very little difference in the image source. There is no wy to demonstrate the difference in images on a computer forum. It is my observation (and only my opinion) after spendig a great deal of time with a mdiaum format camera and a high quality DSLR that one only can observe the difference in very large prints in images with extreme color variations within the image.

Here are two shots taken on the beach on cape cod. The first one was taken on ektachrome with a Pentax 6x7 and scanned into my comuter by a professional lab. The second taken with a Canon 1DS III. They look pretty close on a compter screen, but when enlarged to 16 x 20 I think the Pentax pictuer shows a slightly wider color range, but it it close.

Remember the flash is taking the picture of the subject. It fires much faster than your shutter. The shutter speed controls the ambient light. The slower the shutter speed the more ambient light appears in the picture. Most cameras will automatically set the shutter speed to the highest sinyc speed, usually 250 or 200 if the camera is set to any automatic setting. You need to be in manual mode to control the shutter speed. Just do not set it any higher than your highest sync speed. The aperture will set the depth of field and to some extent the flash power. However, if shooting ETTL, the flash and camera will set the proper amount of light for a proper exposure regardless of the aperture you set. The flash may have to send a more powerful flash at a small aperture, but the exposure will be fine. It is possible, if everything else is correct, that your background is to close to the subject and the flash is lighting the background.

I traded a eos 5 mark 1 for a used 1DS III a couple of years ago. I love the 1DS, but it heavy, so I just purcahsed a used 5 Mark 1 at a very good price. The picture quality almost meets the 1DS. It focuses a little slower and is missing a coulple of features I like, but it still takes great pictures.

You will have to replace your lenses only if the lenses to have are designed solely for APS cameras.

I process RAW pictures in Aperture and convert to Black and White using Silver Efex Pro. I find that this process gices me very high quality Black and White images. Silver Efex lets me duplicate many of the Black and White films I used to use. If you want high quality Black and White prints that use high quality Black and White chemistry try the lab at: http://www.digitalsilverimaging.com

(Download)


(Download)

None of those cameras will use your auto focus lenses. The A2 and A2E will use the auto focus lenses. All you need to purchase is the camera body. Those camera will also use the canon TTL flash.

You can probably find a Canon A2 or A2E at a very good price. It will use all of your canon DSLR lenses and has manual and all of the other settings of your DSLR. I still have my A2E, and it works with all of my lenses.

When you are in Rockport, MA do not miss Halibut State Park. The best time is at sunset, you can shoot the sunset overthe wate as the park is a clear westerly view over the water,

It is now a google product. http://www.google.com/nikcollection/

I shoot everything in RAW. This lets me decide later if I want to convert to Black and White or color, or both. I find that Silver Effex Pro is the best way to convert RAW to Black and White. You can program your camera to display the picture in Black and White if you want to chimp, but if you shoot raw all of the data will be saved.

I did not want the whole subject in focus. This was one of many shots I took during the session. Impossible if I used a tripod.

I am not a big believer in using a tripod for portraits. I know that it slows me down and and I like that for landscapes that I have time to compose. However, I like to be more spontaneous during portrait sessions and I think I lose it with the tripod. In addition, the tripod frequently intimates my subject. I usully shoot a a very large aperture. Ths allows me to shoot at high shutter speeds. The attached picture was taken with a canon 135 MM, f 2.0 at 250 - 2.0.

Canon 135mm @f2.0

I agree with those he suggest that you wait. The upgrade will not help you take better pictures or learn your art. I suspect that there is no picture you cannot take with your current camera that you be able to take with the upgrade. Save your money and if you want to upgrade, get better lenses. It is likely that you will want to upgrade in a more significant manner once you have put your current camera through its passes. You may even want to a full frame camera.